Technical Front right side brake sticking

Currently reading:
Technical Front right side brake sticking

Ah this would explain why there are no Croma owners @ Bu**erall Lane then, are you still subbing them with payments? You naughty rascals you!!
 
Ohh Yessss- the way they perform and the club is run it will probably turn out they succeed in banning calipers for hospital patients!!!
 
Right, thrusting things back on topic - pay attention at the back...

I did go for a drive the other day and got the familiar eee-eee-eee ricocheting off the central barrier while overtaking on a dual carriageway. I found that jabbing the brake (hard) had no effect on it - silence while actually braking, then squeaking again after.

So I put my theory to the test and pulled off into the next layby. I did about 10mph in reverse and walloped the brake pedal. Then continued in complete silence for another 80 miles, and it's been fine ever since.

This is pointing towards my theory of it being the brake pad positioning springs. Presumably the pads get continually pushed in the direction of the spinning disks and jammed against something in that direction. Reversing obviously pulls them back off. All evidence points to fitting kits.

I've finally got my full set of brake pads and fitting kits delivered today (Mintex part numbers previously mentioned on this thread). Here are some pictures - all filenames are the Mintex part numbers. All this lot will be fitted next week, hopefully then all will be well - we'll see.

This is the full complement of all parts recommended for a 1.9D 16v by Mintex themselves.

Thoughts from anyone who knows more about brakes than me (nothing) are very welcome.
 

Attachments

  • MBA1231Packet.JPG
    MBA1231Packet.JPG
    335 KB · Views: 70
  • MBA1231Parts.JPG
    MBA1231Parts.JPG
    280 KB · Views: 42
  • MBA1689Packet.JPG
    MBA1689Packet.JPG
    330.5 KB · Views: 87
  • MBA1689Parts.JPG
    MBA1689Parts.JPG
    289.9 KB · Views: 45
  • MDB2754Box.JPG
    MDB2754Box.JPG
    357.7 KB · Views: 38
  • MDB2754Parts.JPG
    MDB2754Parts.JPG
    188.2 KB · Views: 60
  • MDB2800Box.JPG
    MDB2800Box.JPG
    329.8 KB · Views: 36
  • MDB2800Parts.JPG
    MDB2800Parts.JPG
    265 KB · Views: 41
Doofer,
I really hope it works because the noise from mine is driving me up the wall. Fingers and everything else crossed.
 
I'd be very interested in whether the reverse-braking works for you next time you get it - it's well worth a try as an emergency measure/diagnostic. Just tell your passengers to put their heads back first. You don't have to go fast - walking pace is plenty, but brake with a full 100% stomp. It was just fast enough to make the back end rise up as it stopped.
 
...or perhaps it was the front that rose up, thinking about it. One end went up, the other down, quite a lot. I don't think the suspension is designed for emergency stops backwards.
 
I've got my set of brake pads too, from Textar, they came with the fixing kit included like most of them come. The sticking brake can't be from the the fixing kit and I can bet on it, most likely its the ABS valve on that side or the software as the issue its very common. Fixing kits are changed every time we change the brake pads. I had changed the caliper, the hose, the disc and the brake pads with the fixing kits and still have the same problem. That's why I'm betting on the software which controls the ABS or the ABS module itself.

And if you want to get rid of the squeaky noise, you have to apply some copper or ceramic grease on the back of the brake pads, where they come in contact with the piston. This should solve it, if not, the brake pads are too hard, this depends on the make, usually the low quality ones are hard and they do squeak no matter what.
 
Thanks for the info, not the news I wanted. But we'll see what happens after the new pads and fitting kit - ruling the obvious/cheap things out first.

I'd doubt it's a software issue. I'd assume it's a Bosch system, and I'd have thought it would be common to a number of cars. I'm sure we'd know if everyone's car did it.

The fact it doesn't do it all the time points to something sticking, rather than something intentionally misbehaving. Perhaps just a moving part within something that needs a dab of grease more often than once every six years (since the car was built).
 
Well, I would be very happy to find that the problem is because of a cheap part, can't wait to find it, all I have to do now, is to put the ceramic paste on the back of the pads and try to put some on the piston also, under the rubber seal, if I can get it off safely and of course, put it back on :). I see how it behaves and I'll keep you updated.
 
Yes, all information about sticking brakes from anyone is very welcome on this thread.

There's always the possibility that we have a number of different issues. It's probably something common though.
 
I got to the garage after a decent length of drive this morning. I heard a little squeak as I approached, so wasn't surprised to find the front-right disk was hot. The front-left was cold.

However, looking at the back, the rear-right was cold, rear-left was hot. So both brakes on the diagonal circuit were hot. This points towards the master cylinder or similar.

Anyway, I left the pads with him (that need replacing anyway). Upon trying to change the rear pads, he's found that both rear calipers are completely seized. Two rear calipers have been ordered.

So these need changing anyway as they're knackered. But is it possible that the stuck rear could be causing the front to rub? I can't quite imagine how myself, but we'll see what happens with all new pads (+fitting kits) and two new rear calipers.

The front-right caliper was previously changed, so only the front-left is not new.

We'll see what happens. All ideas welcome.
 
Last edited:
Just been on E-Learn - it shows the electronics associated with the braking system.
With what you are getting with the hot discs at opposite corners I can see it being a fault in the circuitry and /or the hydraulic valve.

It looks that it could cause problems with anything that relys on it if it went tits up, ABS/ ASR/ ESP? all have an input to this valve.

Dont envy you with this one Doofer:bang:
 
I'll have to dig out e-learn and have a look myself. I'm in the dark on all this, I just want the bloody thing to work.

If it is the ABS/ESP etc then all the different systems should come down to a number of actuators that somehow apply or release the brakes.

Now, isn't the ESP at least capable of braking individual wheels? If that is so then doesn't the fact that the two opposite corners (hopefully) mean that it's unlikely to be anything ABS-connected? ...unless two actuators are independently buggered! How does the ABS system apply the brakes anyway? Does it even operate via the fluid?
 
Doof - From my understanding of "Dual circuit brakes" it has rthe ability to pull the car up in case of one circuit failure by having 2 circuits which apply pressure to diagonal wheels , this keeps the car (supposedly) in a straight line .
On the E-Learn circuit are solenoid valves which I assume give the ability to individually break or release during times when the ABS/ ASR are deemed nessessary by the relevant ECU.
Dont wish to build up your hopes but a bad earth on a relay is far more preferable to anything hydraulic? Where they are I`ve not had chance to look anywhere yet
I think that with the cars predeliction towards bad earths(ie steering pump) its as good a shot at it as I can see. BOL
 
I'm going to risk cursing myself, but I've only done one shortish journey after its new pads, fitting kits and rear calipers and the disks are... cold.

Watch this space. I don't think it's fixed, it's just playing its evil intermittent mind games with me again.

It may not have been the calipers - I'm thinking the fitting kits. I'll take some photos of the old ones tomorrow, they're not only filthy (as they would be), but they look a bit deformed. In fact they look like they've come out of a shipwreck. I'd bet they're as old as the car. Mintex recommend changing them every two years.
 
Back
Top