(G) Clutch Tip(s)

If you're doing a clutch on a sporting then you'll find the centreplate splines are quite small. My universal tool wouldn't fit.

If you dont get the centreplate central then you're box aint never going back in. Don't bother doing it by eye. I was trying to find something but couldn't find that perfect fit. Then my dad appears with a bit of standard copper water pipe. PERFECT! Fits in flywheel tight. So there you go lads!!

And I tell you what, the clutch fingers on mine were virtually through. One had pinged off. Thats why I was getting a cracking sound and I drepressed pedal. My new original valeo clutch is about 10 times lighter and so smooth. So I reckon that's why these cables break. A knackered old stiff cover causes drag which overloads your cable and mech.

Don't waste your time buying cables. For £40 spend about 3 hours grafting and put in a valeo!! Quite a nice job if you take your time.

Over and out

P U T I T I N A G U I D E

It's not really groundbreaking stuff!!

its climbing a mountain to some
seriously the guide section needs input.
you have just done the clutch so its fresh in your mind

http://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecento...-required.html

http://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecento...ei-owners.html

http://www.fiatforum.com/guides/

I didn't take any pics. Is it still worth it without?

look at it this way.at least a worded guide is better than no guide.
later someone can take pics and i can add them into an existing guide.
its just people are working on their cars all the time but we dont seem to get many guides

I just put the clutch back on my new box and my universal tool didn't fit either! It even had 3 sizes.

Now I'm trying to put the box on and its right f**king pain! Just about broke my back now lol. Even witha helper, getting it lines up is tricky, and the engine wants to spin everywhere as it suspended in the air, just resting on a bench.


What pics could be usefull while I have it partially apart? I'll snap a few before the box goes back on and post them in here,

Kristian

Clutch and Flywheel assembly:



Head on view, of course the plate here has to be central:



Indide the GB with new bearing fitted and High Melting point greased parts:



The old thrust bearing, nearly warn through...compared to the new bearing. Note these are mpi Sei and a Bravo/a one....hopefully interchangable...I did at least!




If someone wants to knock a guide up with these pics? Give it a week and I will hopefully have my build done and more time if its not done before! (if its not, Custard, give me a PM or bump and I'll get on with it )

Cheers,

Kristian

good stuff

i shall be doing a clutch too next week so can take pics throughout if i remember. Cheers for the headsup RE the waterpipe All the clutches ive done (2x ford pinto, 1x Range Rover and 1x Vitara) have all been done by eye with a 90% success rate first time, but anything to ensure its correct is worth doing!

honestly why car makers (including VX!) didnt stick with the vauxhall setup circa mk2 cavs i dont know.
3 clips on the clutch and it slides in with engine/gearbox in situ

Don't put any grease on anything in the clutch area except,

Perhaps a little graphite on the input shaft splines and a tiny drop of oil where the forkpads touch the bearing.

The release bearing is prelubed with some moly stuff as it slides on the guide on the box. The fork bushes on my box are phospher-bronze. Leave alone I say.

Normal grease will get boggy with dust and cause the whole mech to one day bind.

Ah well, too late now lol, I'm not dropping it all back out to clean it up. Hopefully it will be ok, if not I'll sort it when it screws up

Kristian

It must be clutch overhaul weekend, guess what, I was also doing mine. And my universal tool did not fit either, but it was plastic, so a little bit of surgery with a knife did the trick. And my pressure plate was also close to be gone with teeth hanging by a thread. Few things out of our experience:

My box was never before taken out (I suspect) and the car is 11 years old - clips on the linkages were so rusted it took 2 hours to undo those alone, cluth cable was also rusted at the end, the locking screw would not come off, had to be cut (good advice - always change the cable along with the clutch, makes things much easier). Finally, the big bolts were really tight, took some clever contraptions to undo them - the big nut on the pin is best accessible from the right side of the car with a ratchet plus three extensions bars. Two small screws holding the frame that holds the exhaust have to be undone first.

You need two people to take the box out, and really two people to put it back in - I still really have no clue how it went in, my brother did most of the job lying under the car with the box on his chest. Putting it back in with a jack did not work for us at all (I think we also had the car a little bit too high). People that can do it alone are magicians Also make sure you clear all the cables before you put it back in - we got one pinned between the engine and the box with the box already positioned, it was a real pain to free the cable.

Did not take any pictures, although I was planning to, sorry, was just too much stuff going on. Car is still on the stands waiting for a new clutch cable.

My brother also had a go at dissassemblig the box to check the bearings/sychronisers, etc. We had to stop this half way through, because we were missing long enough bearing splitter Taking the box apart yourself is doable, but you really really have to know what you are doing - for me it was plain magic (I do have one picture of the box with its bowels out if anyone's interested)

Cheers,

Woj

Regarding lubrication - we did put a touch of copper grease on the input shaft splines, all against my concerns , my brother said it will be perfectly OK and insisted on doing it, and told me I should learn more about mechanics