Technical Revs dropping then stalling when clutch and coming to a stop

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Technical Revs dropping then stalling when clutch and coming to a stop

alfacool

I just love Italian cars
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Oct 15, 2005
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Location
Darlington County Durham
Ok then problem.
MPI Sei cutting out at lights etc,
When dipping the clutch and coming to a stop the revs drop right off it stalls.

Full service done
No EML, no fault codes
New plugs and leads
New crank sensor
New temperature sensor
New MAP sensor ( Ebay jobby )
Throttle body cleaned.
2 bottles of injector cleaner through.
New lamda sensor purchased, but not fitted ( need socket )

Starts ok cold or warm
Ticks over from cold fine and revs settle at 900rpm
Pulls ok with no hesitation.
Oil and water at normal levels.
:confused:
 
Does anyone have a pic or diagram of the all vacuum pipes into the MPI throttle body?.
I can see 2 ?
One going to the brake servo ( black solid formed pipe )
This one looks ok, quite new looking and is mounted at the back right of the TB.
It has a electrical plug along side it, what is it and what does it do?.
And another one that leads away to the nearside wing ( blue )
Thanks.
 
Ahh, this is something that i was thinking could be the issue.
Is it the part i said that the brake servo pipe goes into at the rear rhs of the TB?
It seems to be held in with a clip of some kind, is it easy to remove, clean etc or is a new one needed?
Cheers.
 
Update:
Touch wood, think ive sorted it.
Fitted new top Lambda sensor tonight, came out and went back in like a dream. 22mm 7/8 lambda socket and a long extension bar onto my ratchet made it plain sailing, hot engine and gloves were needed.
Question though?
Original had about a 250mm cable on it the new one has a metre.
it doesnt need to be cut down does it?
Heres a pic of the sensor i took out.
20170804_190305.jpg
what does it tell us of how the car has been running?.
 
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I have a sneaky feeling the lambda replacement hasn't solved it.
Are you talking of the the black pipe that goes from the TB to the brake servo?.
 
Nope still got this stalling issue.
Done ECU reset.
Checked the Vacuum pipes and breather pipe for cracks/leaks etc - cant see any
Air filter - like new. 6 months old ( service )
New HT leads and fitted at the same time.
Vac solenoid removed - looked ok no blockage
Plugs taken out, all same colour cleaned and replaced.
Been all around the electrical connections again - all fitting well.
No leaks/smell of fuel at injectors.
Throttle butterfly is free moving and closes fine.
Put another bottle of fuel/injector cleaner in the tank.

Symptoms again are.
A tap on the throttle from idle and it chugs for 1/2 second before free reving.
Starts ok from cold revs at 1200 and then settles back to 900.
Drives ok but there is a slight hesitancy/surging from cold start.
Water and oil both ok and no leaks to be seen, other than a bit from the rocker.

Sensors changed -
Crank.
MAP.
Lambda.
Coolant temp sender.

HELP...
 
MPI Sei cutting out at lights etc

The lack of a warning light is pointing at something which isn't sensor controlled.

If your car is stationary, and ticks over without stalling - such as when you blip the throttle - does the engine temperature rise?

A different car altogether I know .. but I had a Volvo with a 1600cc engine which had the exact same symptoms you describe. Slow down for a roundabout or stop at a junction and bingo, the engine would cut out. If I blipped the throttle or put a few revs on the engine would continue running. In stationary or slow moving traffic it was the same, though the temperature would soon climb..

Eventually .. eventually .. when everything possible had been changed and made no difference, the fault was traced to the fuel supply system.

Connecting the two steel fuel pipes from the tank to the fuel injection system were two flexible pipes. Each flexi pipe/tube was about 3 inches long .. and they had perished, allowing air to be drawn into the fuel system.

The 2 braided tubes/pipes looked ok from the outside but had cracked and perished inside. The air drawn in was enough to cause the stalling at junctions and the overheating on occasions.

I don't know if your fuel system has any flexi/braided pipes, but on the face of it it does sound as though air is being drawn into the fuel system somewhere along the line.

Keep us updated..
 
Cut out 3 times last night while stopping at lights.
Came to a stop, dash lights up - restarted straight away on the key .

Pat352
Maybe?
Can it be removed and replaced ?
Looks to be bonded into the throttle body.

Glen2602.
Wouldnt there be a wiff of petrol if hoses are perished?.
 
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the idle control valve can be changed, all the sensors in the throttle body can come out but its always a fight.. Best thing to do i think would be go get a whole throttle body from scrappies and swap it over.

the petrol thing, with the pump being in tank and the whole system being pressurised that won't be happening no - a car with mechanical fuel pump or a pump at engine end of car can draw air in, as the lines back to the tank are then under suction rather than pressure if that makes sense.
 
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