Family . member's just got a 1.1 sporting sei

Its had new clutch and cable apprently
Cable looks new but to see new clutch is hard to tell....

Anyway
Issues
1st and 2nd really hard to select when stationary engine on
Easier to select whilst moving
Engine off gears are peachy
Reverse would constantly grind while selecting
Clutch pedal is like 5mm off the floor... very very sensitive like a new clutch is

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This is where i step in
I slackened the cable a few turns to see of that made bite better
Nope worse and now no gears selection
So i tightened cable back on up and probably done it up more
And suddenly the gears are 10x better but not 100% perfect

So the question is... the cable doesnt feel sloppy and the pedal has resistance all the way, like it didnt need adjusting
What the hell did i do? Hahahaha

It was like it was originally dragging/not fully disengaging, but ive made slightly better

Im a hydraulic lover vs cable....

Ziggy

Yes to you a big well done.
The cable not properly adjusted, clutch was dragging causing gear engagement problems.

Start engine , clutch down , engage any forward gear, keep clutch pedal fully down, engage reverse gear.

Did it grind going into reverse?
No then give yourself a well done the clutch is fully disengaging.

Yes adjust cable , tighten, try tests again.

If you want to carry on getting it just how you like it. Tightening the cable raises the bite point position of pedal, loosening cable lowers bite point.

The reason for selecting a forward gear then reverse in the tests is there is no synchromesh on the reverse gear, selecting a forward gear stops the main shaft rotating then if clutch not dragging then gears will remain stopped enabling Grind free reverse selection.

In normal use pausing for a short time with clutch down before selecting reverse should enable getting reverse without a crunch or grind.

Try it out.

Ah.... so ive probably not adjusted it enough... as pedals still on floor...

Just dont wanna have release riding on clutch otherwise


Ziggy

You are being very sensible and cautious . Don't worry follow the tests described and carry on adjusting.
As long as the bite point isn't as soon as you start to depress clutch pedal you will be fine.
I don't know what you normally drive but maybe aim at getting the bite point feel similar to that.

I would suggest its been poorly adjusted at fitting, however there is a potential for the release bearing to be incorrectly fitted.

D

Unfortunatly its not my car
its the Brother in laws to be....

Its got lots of little stupid quirks from the ass who "fixed" and sold it

Yes its hard lots of new parts
But badly done
handbrake works yes - Right at top of the travel
Brake pedal has room for improvement as a result
So a strip - clean and correctly adjustment is needed

Wipers were clonking / hitting each other at bottom stroke... simple fix
etc etc is silly things

anyway
Handbrake as said is tbh naff... he cant leave it on a hill

Has anybody got a picture of the shoe setup? is it a star adjuster or a ratchet like on the punto's?
Handbrake cable tension adjuster under the handbrake console?

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also
Washers aren't behaving
Front wash works fine - but it dont wipe after a good squirt? common Sei/Ciuq characteristic?
Rear wiper works, but wont wash when set to rear, it keeps coming out the front - Any ideas on that?
Rear washers clear - checked that, but i suspect the little valve on the pumps stuck?
Any pictures on that stuff?
I've got it for a morning only.... i get 10mins here and there... which is naff for actually sorting faults

Ziggy

Ziggy122 said:

Handbrake as said is tbh naff... he cant leave it on a hill

Has anybody got a picture of the shoe setup? is it a star adjuster or a ratchet like on the punto's?

Click to expand...

Friction adjusters only. You must remove any lip on the drum (easier to replace the drum and they are dirt cheap). Also make sure the lever in the drum is working, not seized

Ziggy122 said:

Handbrake cable tension adjuster under the handbrake console?

Click to expand...

Under the floor, but by the time you do the drums and levers you might not have to do the cable adjustment

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Ziggy122 said:

Washers aren't behaving
Front wash works fine - but it dont wipe after a good squirt? common Sei/Ciuq characteristic?

Click to expand...

No

Ziggy122 said:

Rear wiper works, but wont wash when set to rear, it keeps coming out the front - Any ideas on that?

Click to expand...

Pump spins one way for front, t'other for rear. Not serviceable, replace

Ziggy122 said:

Rear washers clear - checked that, but i suspect the little valve on the pumps stuck?

Click to expand...

See above

Ziggy122 said:

I've got it for a morning only.... i get 10mins here and there... which is naff for actually sorting faults

Click to expand...

Tell him to stop being a dick and that you need time to sort it properly

D

Here you go. This is a Cinq' but it's the same stuff.

As above, for the clutch just adjust the cable. The bite point should occur after about an inch of travel. It will move "down" (more pedal movement needed) as the clutch wears.. until the clutch drags (as yours sounds like it was doing).

For the brakes, check that when you pull the handbrake, the small levers on the drums are moving. If they're not moving then they are seized and no amount of adjusting will fix the handbrake. You'll need to take off the drum, remove the lever and then free it up (you my need to belt it with a hammer, if it's very stiff) and then re-grease it to buggeration so it stays loose.


Ralf S.

rallycinq said:

Friction adjusters only. You must remove any lip on the drum (easier to replace the drum and they are dirt cheap). Also make sure the lever in the drum is working, not seized

Under the floor, but by the time you do the drums and levers you might not have to do the cable adjustment
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No
Pump spins one way for front, t'other for rear. Not serviceable, replace
See above
Tell him to stop being a dick and that you need time to sort it properly
D

Click to expand...

I can hear the pump sound different when i select rear wash vs front
So chances are its got a blockage somewhere and pressures just going out the front instead
Had pipe off near rear - and that i can breath through (slowly) so its not blocked but the pipe was bone dry so its further along somewhere....


As for front washer not wiping, that im gonna need to scratch my head over

And Friction Drums - never ever come across them before?
So they dont have a self adjusting mechanism at all then?

Ziggy

Ralf S. said:

Here you go. This is a Cinq' but it's the same stuff.

As above, for the clutch just adjust the cable. The bite point should occur after about an inch of travel. It will move "down" (more pedal movement needed) as the clutch wears.. until the clutch drags (as yours sounds like it was doing).

For the brakes, check that when you pull the handbrake, the small levers on the drums are moving. If they're not moving then they are seized and no amount of adjusting will fix the handbrake. You'll need to take off the drum, remove the lever and then free it up (you my need to belt it with a hammer, if it's very stiff) and then re-grease it to buggeration so it stays loose.


Ralf S.

Click to expand...

Its an adjustment issue for sure
As the handbrake comes right to top - just as you hit top wheels try to lock up (little screth) But on a hill its got little power to actually hold
But i cant see how you'd adjust them?
everything else i've worked on from citroen' peugeots Vauxhalls and other stuff... i've never seen a drum setup without an adjuster

Apprently its had ""new drums and shoes""
I just hope to god - the idiot who fitted em remembered to wash the storage residue off it... and hasn't contaminated the brake shoes....
and hence why it works at full yank but not when stood

Ziggy

Without a ratchet it means that when the shoes or drum wears you have to adjust the cable... but the shoes on the Cinq' never wear out.. people only change them when they have to fix a leaking cylinder or are freeing up seized levers.. etc.

Just fit the shoes (as in the photo)... free up the lever (pivot).... attach the cable to the lever... then get under the car and adjust the cable so that the handbrake gets tight after 3-4 clicks. That's it.

The cable adjuster is located just rear of the handbrake (outside and under the car).

If your handbrake is weak, I think you have stiff lever (pivot can seize).


Ralf S.

Ziggy122 said:

I can hear the pump sound different when i select rear wash vs front
So chances are its got a blockage somewhere and pressures just going out the front instead
Had pipe off near rear - and that i can breath through (slowly) so its not blocked but the pipe was bone dry so its further along somewhere....


As for front washer not wiping, that im gonna need to scratch my head over

And Friction Drums - never ever come across them before?
So they dont have a self adjusting mechanism at all then?

Ziggy

Click to expand...

If you have a single pump (are you sure? Cinq' has two pumps) and it's knackered you don't get fluid at either the front or the back.. so if it's working on one, then all is well with the pump.

if you have no fluid coming out, the culprit will be a blocked return valve. There's a valve usually by the bonnet prop... it's a little round plastic piece that prevents fluid draining back to the tank, so that there's always fluid in the pipe... (makes it quicker to squirt).

Take it off and try blowing the crud out from the opposite direction the fluid goes... (there is an arrow to show the direction)... but usually they can't be saved. New "universal" ones will be abut £3 from any car spares shop. You just need one with the right size ferrules for the (6mm from memory) pipe.


Ralf S.

Ziggy122 said:

And Friction Drums - never ever come across them before?
So they dont have a self adjusting mechanism at all then?

Ziggy

Click to expand...

This is the Italians we are talking about. The shoes mount on a pin on the back plate. The device that the pin goes into sits in a bigger hole in the shoe, quite tightly.

Once the shoes are fitted and the mechanism is lubricated lever the shoes out to exactly the size of the drum, so the drum just fits over the shoes. The friction between the shoe and the pin mount hold it in place.

The 'correct' method of adjusting the brakes is to reverse and jam the handbrake on, this pulls the shoes out a bit....allegedly.

D