Hello, I have a question and Im sorry if it has been answered before but I havent been able to find a thread about it. I got a cinq 1.1 sporting (its my first car), Theres a red light on the dash indicating there is a sensor sending false information . Also the car seems to be running a bit rich ( it rumbles a bit while idling and the exhaust is black, although I hardly ever smell petrol). Could anyone suggest me which sensors to check/clean/replace and their locations in order to fix the problem? The car is running good but I have MOT coming up soon and I am afraid they might fail me on that, Cheers

Also I forgot to mention, when I bought the car, It had a terrible oil leak from the valve cover gasket, It has been fixed and cleaned but there was oil all over the engine bay, maybe one of the sensors is still covered in oil ?

Does it do this from start or only once warm?

D

rallycinq said:

Does it do this from start or only once warm?

D

Click to expand...

The light is on all the time, I bought the car like that, its on from start and never goes off

OK, so its not Lambda related.

Check the two pole temp sender against the nominals.

D

i guess you have tried leaving the battery disconnected overnight to see if the fault clears?

dac69er -yes I tried that, no change

rallycinq said:

OK, so its not Lambda related.

Check the two pole temp sender against the nominals.

D

Click to expand...

Sorry, English is not my first language so I dont understand all the technical terms, is that the one that you are on about ?

Do you think it would save me a lot of headaches and guessing if I just invest into a fault code reader ? Or some leads and a software for my laptop that could do the same thing ? Im planning to keep the car for at least the next 4-5 years (untill I finish uni) so It might come in handy down the line ?

kingsizef40 said:

Do you think it would save me a lot of headaches and guessing if I just invest into a fault code reader ? Or some leads and a software for my laptop that could do the same thing ? Im planning to keep the car for at least the next 4-5 years (untill I finish uni) so It might come in handy down the line ?

Click to expand...

you can get free software and the leads are fairly cheap.

check this site: http://www.multiecuscan.net/

kingsizef40 said:

Sorry, English is not my first language so I dont understand all the technical terms, is that the one that you are on about ?

Click to expand...

You need the temprature sender on the inlet manifold.

D

Update.... I have postponed the issue since the car was working nice and smooth up untill today when I failed MOT on emissions. , my "natural idle speed CO" reading was 7.16% which was way out of range which makes me think that the car is over fueling/ running too rich, since the second fast idle reading was 1.2 % (could probably get better if the cat was hotter) and also failed the lambda readings. The guy from the garage said a new cat should do but there is no point fitting a new one without fixing the real issue first as the new one wont last long. I will replace the temperature sender and the lambda sensor, also a fresh set of spark plugs and leads and I will make sure I give the car a good bashing to make sure the cat is red hot for the test, hopefully it will get me through. My question is, will the injector light on the dash come off if the problem is fixed (if it was temperature/ lambda) or will the error code have to be deleted for the light to come off. I was confused of which was the right type of leads to buy to be able to read engine codes so I just left it since the car is working good but the time has come to get some work done :slayer:

if you are planning to keep it then yes get some cables and download multiecuscan linked above. you just need a fiat 3 pin to OBD2 adpator and a OBD2 to USB cable. Can get both for jsut a few pounds each.

From what you are describing and the emissions test i think rallycinq is correct to say check the temp sensor on the inlet mani. If that fails the car won't be fueling right at all, usually when they fail they don't throw a code or the light but if its gone completely open circuit it would and would run very rich indeed. Usually when they start to fail tell the ecu the car is colder than it really is resulting in running rich, if its been like that for a long time though the sensor could completely fail and go open circuit, again the ecu will just stay on full rich mixture in these instances.

With regard to the light, it will only be on if there is an active fault code - once the fault is sorted the light will go off but the code will be stored in the ecu (unless the battery is removed for a short while then it will forget all stored codes).

Whereabouts are you based, someone local may have cables and could plug it in and read the codes for you, although as i said before the cables are cheap and the software is free so may as well just get them.

Let us know how you get on

I am based in south Wales, near Cardiff and Newport

Mmmm, not a huge distance from me but an hours drive each way and i'm really busy atm or i would drive down and lend a hand. I know a few lads down that way but don't think they frequent the forum sadly.

I have changed the temp sensor on the inlet, the car seems to warm up and engage the fan very quickly now even at idle, when I go down a hill it cools right down to like 60-70, however the light is still on the dash (I disconnected the battery for a while after fitting the new sensor). It still failed emissions on the idle , anyway I have ordered cables to read the codes and they should be here this week

that sensor will not have any bearing on how fast/slow the car warms up or when the fan comes on either actually. On the cinq the temp sender on the inlet is used by the ecu as the engine temp, the rad fan has its own temperature sensor switch on the side of the fan and the gauge itself has yet another temp sensor which is on the back of the head at the belt end (the one in the 2nd post is the gauge one). Sightly silly having 3 sensors but thats how they did it lol.

I was suspect about it ever throwing an EML the temp sender but its a very common reason they fail emissions. You got the cables coming so I guess we will find out why thats on soon enough but out of curiosity - does the EML come on with the ignition and then go out only to come straight back on again when the cars starts or does it just come on with the ignition and stay on whether you start the engine or not??

It comes on from the ignition and stays on all the time, no matter how warm/cold the car is the EML is on from the moment I turn the key to the moment I get out of the car

so I'm gonna say there is something somewhere open circuit then, but lets wait and see what the ecu says when your cables turn up.

The leads came in today, however the casing around the 3 pin is round on the leads but the port is more like a square ( assuming I got the right port haha), so it wouldn't go in unless I chop it up. The port is a short thick cable coming from behind the ecu ? And also what are the crocodile clips on the cable used for ?