The 2 flared ends on that length of pipe were what is probably called op 1 on your flaring kit. Ask for the metric tube nuts with the leading edge ( first couple of mm on the nut is unthreaded)
Op 2 may also be used on the car, but not sure (you will need to do an op1 followed by an op 2 on your tool)
Easiest way is get a bit of brake pipe from a motor factors pipe and have a go - youll soon see what you need to do.
Best tool is the sykes pickavant vice held model, so easy to use and very little physical effort required.

How long before the self adjusters self adjust?

I presume it's not the first push of the brake pedal or you wouldn't need that prying technique.

After the garage fitted new rear drums due to the MOT noting lack of rear brakes, three of the four pistons in them being seized, the brake pedal was travelling a lot further before braking started with the car moving a full extra cars length at 20mph which I was not at all please about. Garage took the drums off again but was not able to see any self adjusting anything so I'm finding this an interesting thread. Thanks for all the tips.

I changed my fluid a couple of years ago and black stuff came out of each calliper. I used the car tyre pressurised Ezebleed kit. The drivers side front calliper was blocked so I pushed down the brake pedal which cleared it and it then ran free.

Ian S said:

How long before the self adjusters self adjust?

I presume it's not the first push of the brake pedal or you wouldn't need that prying technique.

After the garage fitted new rear drums due to the MOT noting lack of rear brakes, three of the four pistons in them being seized, the brake pedal was travelling a lot further before braking started with the car moving a full extra cars length at 20mph which I was not at all please about. Garage took the drums off again but was not able to see any self adjusting anything so I'm finding this an interesting thread. Thanks for all the tips.

I changed my fluid a couple of years ago and black stuff came out of each calliper. I used the car tyre pressurised Ezebleed kit. The drivers side front calliper was blocked so I pushed down the brake pedal which cleared it and it then ran free.

Click to expand...

In the photo in the link below you can see a silver disc on each shoe.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/534470...posted-public/

That is the auto adjuster. It is sprung loaded from behind and works by using friction on each brake shoe.

In the diagram in the link below you can see a slot in the shoe. You can't see this because it is behind the silver disc. As the shoes wear down, they move in the slot and the friction from the disc/auto adjuster then holds onto the shoe using pressure to keep it as close as possible to the drum at all times. This keeps the brake pedal travel as short as possible, so when you apply the brakes the front and rear come on at the same time.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/29675147303/in/dateposted-public/

If I have anything that is incorrect I'm sure one of the forum member will correct me or add to it.

I didn't put new drums on mine, I used the old ones. So I can't comment on how long they take to bed in or what they should be like.

Your brakes do not sound right to me.

If it was me I would print this off with the photos and show it to the person that did your brakes so they can have a better understanding of how they work. This is providing that other forum members agree that what I have written is correct.

Hope this helps explain it better.

Ian S said:

Garage took the drums off again but was not able to see any self adjusting anything so I'm finding this an interesting thread. Thanks for all the tips.

Click to expand...

Change your garage....****s

D

In the picture it's the slots that are the clue but they're hidden under the 'washers' so one would have to already know that's how they work.

Metalguru3 said:

Mine had sudden and catastrophic brake failure yesterday.
osf brake pipe had corroded behind the wheel arch cover.

Click to expand...

I had a look at mine today while I had the arch liner off and it's badly corroded.

So that's now on the list of jobs that need doing.

Ive concluded mine was caused by a battery leak which corroded about a 6" length of brake pipe.
The rest of the pipes on the car are fine.
Definitely worth doing sooner rather than later if badly corroded.

The grey brake pipe looks badly sort of bubbled starting just before the clip as it goes under the arch, then in patches most of the way after that.

I scraped one patch with a finger nail and the paint flaked off to reveal rust colour.

All those I could see in the engine bay looked OK.


While I was there, the brake discs have a thick rust area for the outer few mm on both sides. I guess that means somewhat reduced braking. The pads must be abraded by that rust and have little real bite on it and as it's so rough the contact area with the pad is very small.

I have some DS2500 pads for the standard Cinq callipers. If I fitted new standard discs, or Brembo, would that create in imbalance in stopping power with the rear brakes doing even less for a given (less than now) pedal pressure? Is it possible to turn up the rear braking a bit with the Cinquecento Sporting?

Another rear brake problem.

Starting to here a scrapping noise from the O/S/R for the first 5 mins of the journey and then it disappears. It doesn't do it every time. Only happened twice today so far.

I was thinking maybe a brake slave cylinder starting to seize. What do you think?

Theses rear brakes are driving me insane. :bang:

Thanks

Ian S said:

The grey brake pipe looks badly sort of bubbled starting just before the clip as it goes under the arch, then in patches most of the way after that.

I scraped one patch with a finger nail and the paint flaked off to reveal rust colour.

All those I could see in the engine bay looked OK.


While I was there, the brake discs have a thick rust area for the outer few mm on both sides. I guess that means somewhat reduced braking. The pads must be abraded by that rust and have little real bite on it and as it's so rough the contact area with the pad is very small.

I have some DS2500 pads for the standard Cinq callipers. If I fitted new standard discs, or Brembo, would that create in imbalance in stopping power with the rear brakes doing even less for a given (less than now) pedal pressure? Is it possible to turn up the rear braking a bit with the Cinquecento Sporting?

Click to expand...

The back brake pressure is controlled by a proportioning valve (on mine anyway) situated next to the master cylinder.

Unless you want the back to overtake you when braking on a corner, it's best left standard.

Mine does have a bit of brake induced oversteer which I like, but that's great on a twisty autotest, not so good when granny steps out in front of you in a zimmer frame.

For track use some get rid of the rear brakes altogether on some cars, so that should say enough about turning them up.

If you really want to mess then fit and adjustable rear bias valve inside the car and have some fun with that, but I wouldn't bother - I had one on my rally mini and it worked a treat when swapping from tarmac to gravel etc. but entirely unnecessary on the road - and probably illegal, I don't know

I have Brembo's on mine and the overall setup using stock rear shoes is just right, and for some reason I cannot explain my handbrake is as sharp as a new pin this week - effortless locking for no effort - that will all stop next week after this Sunday's event.

Change your discs if they are badly corroded, bed in the pads and you should be OK, and don't risk a badly rusted brake pipe unless you have an on board anchor!!

dx90 said:

I don't have a shoe adjuster on mine to even each side out. So I have adjusted the handbrake cable adjuster to give 5 clicks so I can rule out any brake binding due to over adjustment if it happens again. Take a look at the photo in the link below.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/534470...posted-public/

Thanks for the tips.

You were very lucky that day.

What gets me is I had the OS/F steel brake pipe replaced for the MOT at the start of the year and asked them to do a full fluid change and they tested it and said it passed there special heat test and talked me out of it. It was jet black when I did the fluid change the other day.

Interestingly a fluid change sorted another problem out that I couldn't get to the bottom of. The car has been in the family for around 6 years. My sons girlfriend had it for at least 2 years before that. There has always been a thump when pressing the foot peddle down first thing in the morning, like it sticks and then its fine for the rest of the day. So its been like that for at least 8 years. It hasn't done it for the past 5 mornings since the new fluid change. How strange is that.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Just be aware that a common practise in garages is that when the carry out a 'brake fluid change' they will merely remove the old fluid from the reservoir(usually using a Turkey baistor) and then refill it with new fluid. Rarely would they then bleed the whole system with hew fluid, so the fluid at the piston/cylinder will still be the 'manky' water filled stuff that likes to boil when the going gets tough. If you are going to bleed the system yourself(ALWAYS the best way IMO) then drain the reservoir(with a Turkey baistor/an old one, that is)refill it with new fluid and then carry out a normal 'brake bleeding' procedure. Brake fluid should be replaced every 2-3 years as mentioned. It absorbs water easily(Hydroscopic)and the water, being heavier that the fluid eventually finds its way to the piston/cylinder end of your brake pipes where it will eventually destroy everything, if left alone. I have changed, flushed and bled my little 'Noddy' car 3 times since I got him(4 years ago) as he wasn't much loved before that. I live in a relatively dry climate and it still amazes me how manky the fluid is. If I was UK based it would be done every 2 years without exception. I have just recently(this past week) done the front pads and rear shoes, cylinders and springs. Have bled the system twice but still not perfect and it will be done again. My little Fiat likes being pampered, I don't begrudge him anything and he doesn't cost me much. Gotta love yer Fiat Seicento!!