He means the cam belt cover, I presume.

I don't think it's possible to remove it from above without taking out the things I mention in previous post. Is it?
(also I think it's just one screw at the bottom and clips above, not 4-5 bolts)

Edit: replaced (with borrowed) coils, no love..

Hey what does the black relay just above the ECU (the one next to the fuel pump red one) do? The owner's manual says ignition and code 2. Is it possible for the car to run without it? Cause the strangest thing happens. If I:
Remove the red one
Crank
Replace the red one
Remove the black one
Crank

the car starts and stays on its own about 5 seconds before dying again. From then on every time I crank it will probably start for 1-5 seconds and die (without having to do the relay changes again)

So I switched both relays with identicalls found in the fuse compartment in the cabin. Nothing.

Only with the black one removed did the car manage to start even for some seconds.

??? I am now thinking, ignition electronics? code 2 malfunction? Key problem? (can't check my other key right now, wife's away with it, will return Friday)

Also noticed the black relay getting quite warm (when it was in its place of course). But I switched it with others and nothing..

you definitely have an ELECTRICAL problem.

relays can get HOT.., but probably get WARM when working normally.

have you had any other work done to the car recently..?? just wondering if something has been disturbed..

No, no other work for at least a year and that was basic stuff (oil/filters) by me.

With all this happening I unbolted/sanded/cleaned with electronics cleaner the two grounds I could see left and right in the engine bay. Just in case. But no changes.

At times the car gives me the impression it needs less instead of more fuel.. It is always 'about to start' in the attempt following an attempt with the pump off.. And also after having sat for hours. And also with the ignition relay taken off LOL!!!

Which temperature sender did you change?

D

I changed the crank position sensor (others may refer to it as revs/rpm sensor), don't think it has anything to do with temperature. Only that.

Tried other (used) coils, and switched some relays.

Nothing temperature related I think.

Edit: I changed the coolant temperature sensor 8 years ago.. ?

Timing. What I didn't/couldn't easily check...

Took it to a mechanic. He just called me. Timing belt has slipped 4 teeth. Will now investigate why.

Nothing found. Water pump ok, pulleys ok, belt ok, no slacks, no signs of oil on the belt or the pulleys.

It's a mystery how the belt could have slipped, more so on idle.

Car running fine now, we'll see.

Thanks everyone for your help!

I'd change the belt and tensioner as a precaution. If the belt slipped then something has jammed momentarily, which will have put stress on the belt as it was dragged over the teeth.

It's wasted spark and I think the current path is from a high tension coil winding, via plug 1, via head, via plug 4, back to the same coil winding. A circuit.

If that's the case then it probably makes little or no difference to swap around 1 and 4 or 2 and 3.

The current flow direction might be the opposite way around, but that maybe makes no practical difference if it's not going back to earth, but is going back to the same coil.

Edit...I didn't see there was a page two and that was already answered there.