Technical Handbrake failing?

Currently reading:
Technical Handbrake failing?

branbb60

New member
Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
35
Points
8
Location
Near Coventry
Hello, I'm currently in the lake district and was traveling to ambleside. I was in traffic on a steep hill and tried to use my handbrake to keep myself there to do a hill start.

Yet when I did this I rolled back I could not pull any further on the handbrake. Without saying it was a scary situation though luckily i had my girlfriend behind me so if I didn't manage to get my footbreak I would have just bounced off her car.

It was stressful to say the least but I had to keep myself there with the footbreak and and do it that way but I stalled numerous times. Personally I felt I had enough acceleration and my biting point though it felt the car lost power.

I've noticed that if I pull my handbrake that it is loose before the first click yet the light still comes on.

Any input would be greatly appreciated,

- Brandon.
 
It needs adjusting properly.

They are not great, but they can be adjusted to work far better than many on here think is possible!!!
 
Agreed, they are better than some suggest. Much easier to start with new shoes.
Check cylinders for leaks - renew if necessary
Check the cable is sliding freely on each side and returning back to its off position.
Check the handbrake actuation lever mechanism (against the backplate) pivots freely. If its seized it should be renewed but ive freed mine off a few times now and im still getting away with it.
If theres a wear lip on the edge of the drum, again they should be replaced, but ive got away with grinding the lip off.
Slacken off the adjustment nuts under the heat shield below the handbralke lever.
Assemble so the shoes only just slide brush against the drum by using a large screwdriver to prise open the Fiat "self adjusting mechanism" - if you set it too tight it will get hot.
Adjust the nuts back up to give 2 or 3 clicks on the handbrake lever (i like 1 but thats my preference)
Hey presto you should have a handbrake that locks up the wheels for any fun and games you might like to try - or hold you firmly on a hill.
Mines a regular autotester so i need a good handbrake - even with a hot and sticky set of yokohama A539's the back still locks easily so dont give up.
 
Last edited:
I'm always a bit tickled when some go into a story on how the handbrake is not working as it should all of a sudden, & I say this with a general outlook. Bottom line when you're in the mature vehicle territory, brakes need looking/servicing ideally twice a year. Handbrakes on certain vehicles are at best work well after a once over for a short while after.


Apart from the obvious serviceable items that are already mentioned, brake shoes, drums, cables, the biggest culprit is the lack of attention paid to the adjuster. With age & neglect these corrode & cease to work properly. Even with slightly worn parts & tired cables if the adjusters are working freely, you'll have at least a working handbrake. Obviously you have to whip off the wheels & have a look. Not a difficult job, but if you are a novice it can be time consuming for a first time. You can save money by DIY as well......:)
 
I think the Seicento still used the ancient brake design, used on most small Fiats for many years. Started with the original 500 I think. Never great, just adequate.

I've given this before, but here it is again. A technique to make crap handbrakes work on hills. Works with any drum-braked car with the handbrake on the rear drums.

Bring the car to a normal stop using the footbrake.
Before applying the handbrake, now press the footbrake very hard. You may hear a creak or similar as the rear shoes are pressed against the drums.
Whilst holding the footbrake hard, lift the handbrake lever.
Release footbrake gently, but should now hold, even on very steep hills.

On a normal stop, the rear brakes don't do much work, in fact the pressure is usually restricted. Once stopped, there is no pressure restriction, so the footbrake can now apply the rear shoes hard. Then the handbrake just holds them there, rather than being asked to apply them. The leverage of the handbrake system is poor, using the footbrake by-passes this.

With this technique, never had a problem on any hill with either original Panda, or the Seicento. It was necessary on Corsa C, as their handbrake lever was too short. Parked Seicento and Corsa C on Lake District hills without problems. As a habit, I still use the technique every day, on the Panda, which does benefit, and on the school Fiesta, which doesn't really need it, but it is useful for some of the weaker learners.

Give it a try. But follow the advice above and ensure all is as good as it can be first.
 
The culprit is most usually the lever arm that attaches to the handbrake cable and then passes through a rubber grommet into the drum. It has a simple stamped metal hinge and is supposed to pivot.

If it rusts solid (dirt, grit and water not being uncommon on the inner wheel) then it won't apply the shoes properly.

Take it off, clean it and lubricate it to buggeration.. until it moves slinky and free. Refit and Robert is your mother's brother.


Ralf S.
 
The culprit is most usually the lever arm that attaches to the handbrake cable and then passes through a rubber grommet into the drum. It has a simple stamped metal hinge and is supposed to pivot.

If it rusts solid (dirt, grit and water not being uncommon on the inner wheel) then it won't apply the shoes properly.

Take it off, clean it and lubricate it to buggeration.. until it moves slinky and free. Refit and Robert is your mother's brother.


Ralf S.

Careful with the lubrication. Anything left on it that attracts brake dust will soon seize it up again. Bit of a catch22.
Once freed off, clean it with brake cleaner, as that evaporates well. Then lubricate with a graphite spray. Once the carrier fluid evaporates it leaves dry graphite, which does not attract dust. Don't use WD40, or copper grease. WD40 will burn off immediately, and copper grease is not a good lubricant, only meant as anti-seize on static components. It is only called 'grease' due to its consistency, not its properties.
 
Back
Top