Invisible Man said:

Hey,
Water pump is staying on and the old belts going back on seems it looks like new! Like you said get the head done, let the car prove itself then bugger about with other parts. I've had a right game with it tonight.

-How do you get the inlet manifold off the mpi seicento? Do you have to disconnect all the injectors etc?

-How do you get the heat shield off the exhaust to get to the exhaust manifold bolts?

Came very close to calling time on the Sei tonight.

Shaun.

Click to expand...

Hi Shaun,

Keep at it. You only learn through trial and error. Continue to use the forum as you are there are loads of blokes(and gals)looking of your shoulder, albeit at a distance.

Once the head is back on (remember clean mating surfaces of old gasket/residue using a 'scraper' but be careful you don't damage the surfaces (block or head) and to 'torque down' in the correct sequence and to correct torque settings/usually in graduations) do change the thermostat and best to 'back flush engine(before refitting thermostat) and radiator. Check all hoses for 'hardness' splits and replace if necessary and also any clamps etc. Clean off all fittings and hose connectors. If you can check radiator for damage to 'vanes' and clean using an airline/soft brush if necessary(airline if you've got all that stuff) and remove any leaves and 'crud'. When you refill mix the coolant and water before pouring in to the correct percentage(not sure for 'Sei') as coolant has rust inhibitors that are essential for preventing internal corrosion and it also increases the boiling point of the cooling system by approx 10%. When topping up the system remember to have the heater on 'hot' and to bleed the system of all air via the 'bleed valves/nipples' in the engine bay. This is done with the engine running after coolant is in the system. You will have to top the system up as you do this, air escaping etc and the heater matrix refilling/purging air etc but maybe not by too much. If your heater then blows cold air when it should be hot whilst driving more than likely means you have an 'air lock' in the hear matrix = re bleed system. Maybe a bit further ahead than you are at the moment but keep at it.

Best

Malcolm

Hey all,
Thanks for your invaluable information I've soldiered on over the past week and the Sei is now alive and well Finished reassembling today after new head gasket and skim. Ran to temperature and the fan kicked in fine. I haven't changed the thermostat or water pump yet as I just wanted to get it running. Once its proven itself over the next month I'll replace coolant, water pump, thermostat and cam belt.

Since I've had it its never overheated however I would like to fit a gauge....God only knows why Mr. Fiat didn't fit one! The only time I knew there was problem was when the pressure in the water bottle became excessive.

Thanks guys,
Shaun.

Awesome, glad it's sorted. Easiest place to fit a temperature sender is probably on the water pipe from the thermostat to the rad. Just cut a small section out the same size as the sender housing, couple of jubilee clamps and Bob's your uncle.
If you have difficulty finding a switched live and light feed just say. The rev counter plug behind the middle heater vent is probably the easiest to get to.