biffy elliot
New member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Messages
- 9
- Points
- 3
Over the last 3-4 months and after a good run the car would, occasionally, not re-start when left for about 30 mins (no spark). I would leave it for about an hour, it would re start and run fine. I cleaned all the earths I could find and removed the crank position sensor and cleaned - it made no difference.
In the last two weeks the car has started to stop at idle but would always bump start. The final straw was when the car stopped at traffic lights going up hill, I was unable to bump start and it was at rush hour mayhem (no spark)! I pushed it into a side road, came back 5 hours later with tools but the car started and ran fine.
Back home on the drive I checked the CPS 3 way plug (under inlet manifold). Black wire is ground, I checked that with an ohm meter and test light and it was ok.
Centre terminal, I think, is the signal wire and had 2.25 volts with ignition on. Last wire i think is the reference voltage also had 2.25 volts with ignition on.
I ran engine and probed both live wires and got the same volts as with ignition on.
Engine eventually stopped (no spark). The volts at the CPS three way plug stayed the same, ground wire was checked again and stayed the same. Meaning the fault was not input voltages or ground.
I checked the resistance between the signal wire and the reference volts wire on the CPS end of the plug (I do not know if this means anything on a three wire hall effect sensor). Before engine stopped I had 600 ohms, when it stopped I had open circuit. I waited ages for it to go back to 600 ohms, gave up and reconnected three pin connecter, tried to start and it did. I cant explain that.
I think it is the CPS but have read that engine cooling sensor can stop the spark. Checked coolant sensor using wife's meat temperature probe on brass sensor nut, a bit hit and miss but this is what i've got:
21C 3680 Ohms
31C 915 Ohms
35C 630 Ohms
40C 560 Ohms
50C 520 Ohms
60C 477 Ohms
70C 333 Ohms
80C 227 Ohms
Cooling fan on at 83C 199 Ohms
Engine would not play up while doing this test. Bought a new CPS and fitted, the car has been ok for 2 weeks now and seems to be fixed. Hope this helps someone.
In the last two weeks the car has started to stop at idle but would always bump start. The final straw was when the car stopped at traffic lights going up hill, I was unable to bump start and it was at rush hour mayhem (no spark)! I pushed it into a side road, came back 5 hours later with tools but the car started and ran fine.
Back home on the drive I checked the CPS 3 way plug (under inlet manifold). Black wire is ground, I checked that with an ohm meter and test light and it was ok.
Centre terminal, I think, is the signal wire and had 2.25 volts with ignition on. Last wire i think is the reference voltage also had 2.25 volts with ignition on.
I ran engine and probed both live wires and got the same volts as with ignition on.
Engine eventually stopped (no spark). The volts at the CPS three way plug stayed the same, ground wire was checked again and stayed the same. Meaning the fault was not input voltages or ground.
I checked the resistance between the signal wire and the reference volts wire on the CPS end of the plug (I do not know if this means anything on a three wire hall effect sensor). Before engine stopped I had 600 ohms, when it stopped I had open circuit. I waited ages for it to go back to 600 ohms, gave up and reconnected three pin connecter, tried to start and it did. I cant explain that.
I think it is the CPS but have read that engine cooling sensor can stop the spark. Checked coolant sensor using wife's meat temperature probe on brass sensor nut, a bit hit and miss but this is what i've got:
21C 3680 Ohms
31C 915 Ohms
35C 630 Ohms
40C 560 Ohms
50C 520 Ohms
60C 477 Ohms
70C 333 Ohms
80C 227 Ohms
Cooling fan on at 83C 199 Ohms
Engine would not play up while doing this test. Bought a new CPS and fitted, the car has been ok for 2 weeks now and seems to be fixed. Hope this helps someone.
