Technical hesitation @ around 2000rpm????

dac69er · Mar 29, 2015

car is a cinq sporting.
i have a problem that is progressively getting worse and i am not entirely sure what it is, let me explain:

if the engine is stone cold or has only been stopped for a brief period (still hot) it has no issues.

if i leave the car for 30mins-2hrs or so, i restart the car to go out, it starts fine, drives off fine then for no reason looses power around the 2000rpm area, i slowly increase the revs and then suddenly it will kick in and be ok. this sometimes only happens once, sometime a few times. after it has played up it runs perfect for the duration of the trip.

when this happens i can either ride it out until it decides to work ok again or i can floor it or push the clutch down and blip the throttle and its ok again.

i get no engine lights or ecu error codes come up.

the car has had new plugs, leads, coils, lambda, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and filter about a year ago. battery is good and i have checked all the ground points i can find.

any ideas?

super sprint sei · Mar 29, 2015

dac69er said:
car is a cinq sporting.
i have a problem that is progressively getting worse and i am not entirely sure what it is, let me explain:

if the engine is stone cold or has only been stopped for a brief period (still hot) it has no issues.

if i leave the car for 30mins-2hrs or so, i restart the car to go out, it starts fine, drives off fine then for no reason looses power around the 2000rpm area, i slowly increase the revs and then suddenly it will kick in and be ok. this sometimes only happens once, sometime a few times. after it has played up it runs perfect for the duration of the trip.

when this happens i can either ride it out until it decides to work ok again or i can floor it or push the clutch down and blip the throttle and its ok again.

i get no engine lights or ecu error codes come up.

the car has had new plugs, leads, coils, lambda, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and filter about a year ago. battery is good and i have checked all the ground points i can find.

any ideas?

Could be air filter when i attach it to throttle body sometimes it overlaps

super sprint sei · Mar 30, 2015

Sounds like to much air geting in though is your intake manifold plastic?

dac69er · Mar 30, 2015

I have an induction kit on the car. Its been fitted for some time with no issues.

The intake is all standard cast spi, I'm just using a larger tb. It's been perfect for a ages, it's only the last few months it has been doing this and only under the conditions detailed in my 1st post. Otherwise it runs fine.

super sprint sei · Mar 30, 2015

dac69er said:
I have an induction kit on the car. Its been fitted for some time with no issues.

The intake is all standard cast spi, I'm just using a larger tb. It's been perfect for a ages, it's only the last few months it has been doing this and only under the conditions detailed in my 1st post. Otherwise it runs fine.

Wel if no prob with inlet maybe outet? Check air coming from exhaust gasket because it will need the compression more at low rpm get a lil strip of paper and hover it arround exhaust (edd china tip)

dac69er · Mar 30, 2015

exhaust is fine. it was brand new inc cat about a year ago.

why would it only do it when it has been sat for an hour or so then run perfectly fine afterwards?

i feel its electronic. but i dont want to start randomly replacing bits. especially since i have replaced most bits anyway.

surely someone has had a similar issue in the past?

cc1 · Mar 30, 2015

Do tests for head gasket breach to a water channel. Does it loose any coolant?

Huwbishop · Mar 30, 2015

Mine used to do something similar. It would get to 60'c splutter and hesitate then fine. I solved it by swapping the EPROM chip. But mine isn't standard.

dac69er · Mar 30, 2015

Huwbishop said:
Mine used to do something similar. It would get to 60'c splutter and hesitate then fine. I solved it by swapping the EPROM chip. But mine isn't standard.

its fine from cold all the way up the temperature range. its only once left for a bit when hot to cool a bit, but not fully, then its plays up. if i just stopped the car for 10 mins or overnight its not a problem.

i have swapped the coils for the rusty old ones that came off, so will see if that helps.

dac69er · Mar 30, 2015

cc1 said:
Do tests for head gasket breach to a water channel. Does it loose any coolant?

its not losing any water worth talking about. about half a cup full every three months perhaps.
it has always been like this so just assumed it was normal?

it only has to last me another day and then its coming off the road for a new windscreen and perhaps a 1.2 upgrade if i have the time

Huwbishop · Mar 31, 2015

If you are going to swap engines, think about swapping to a 16v. The 1242 8v are superb, but ultimately can't compete with the 16v on power. Depends on what you want the car to do, but from what I understand the 8v has more drivability eg wider torque band etc. whereas the 16v has a much higher power output at the top of the rev range.

I don't know if you can run a 16v with 8v ecu's etc until the loom and box can be sorted, but if you have the engine out. You may as well build it to what suits you. I don't think there would be much difference in budget between them, just the faf of wiring and ecu selection.

Duncan · Mar 31, 2015

My old Cinq had a similar problem but the fuel injection light kept coming on. Got worse and worse until it wouldn't rev at all. Turned out to be MAP sensor IIRC, was a long time ago though!

Definitely not coils? How long ago were they changed and are the decent make?

dac69er · Mar 31, 2015

i can get a 1.2 8v cheap as i know a bloke with one so doing that as a cheap option. if i was going 16v i would probably stick something different in the car perhaps. just for a change

i have a spare map sensor so will give that a go if the coils arent the issue. original coils were one magnetti marelli and an unbranded one. i had a misfire so swapped them out for some cheapy ebay ones, it made no difference.
i have now put the original coils back on and will just wait and see. if its still an issue i will swap the map sensor over.

thanks

dac69er · Mar 31, 2015

Ok, it's not the coils or map sensor as it still does it.

Any other ideas? Crankshaft position sensor?

super sprint sei · Mar 31, 2015

Huwbishop said:
If you are going to swap engines, think about swapping to a 16v. The 1242 8v are superb, but ultimately can't compete with the 16v on power. Depends on what you want the car to do, but from what I understand the 8v has more drivability eg wider torque band etc. whereas the 16v has a much higher power output at the top of the rev range.

I don't know if you can run a 16v with 8v ecu's etc until the loom and box can be sorted, but if you have the engine out. You may as well build it to what suits you. I don't think there would be much difference in budget between them, just the faf of wiring and ecu selection.

Why do a 1.2 when you can go 1.4 turbo!

dac69er · Mar 31, 2015

I have 3 turbo starlets so want to keep it n/a and do something different to what I'm used to.

Anyway, back in topic....... Have a crankshaft position sensor on the way. Any other ideas are welcome

Huwbishop · Apr 1, 2015

super sprint sei said:
Why do a 1.2 when you can go 1.4 turbo!

Because we are not all as bonkers as you are

super sprint sei · Apr 3, 2015

Huwbishop said:
Because we are not all as bonkers as you are

Id prefer to go lower and have a 1000cc motobike engine in r1 perhaps? Iv seen them on youtube

Huwbishop · Apr 4, 2015

super sprint sei said:
Id prefer to go lower and have a 1000cc motobike engine in r1 perhaps? Iv seen them on youtube

Go for the cross plane crank, they sound wicked.
Or how about a duke panegale motor, big v twin.

If I had the budget I would go for a bike engine, so much more bang for you're buck. My blade engine has been dynoed at 142bhp and weighs in at about 60kg, and that includes the gearbox. Imagine that in the front, or better the back.

super sprint sei · Apr 4, 2015

Huwbishop said:
Go for the cross plane crank, they sound wicked.
Or how about a duke panegale motor, big v twin.

If I had the budget I would go for a bike engine, so much more bang for you're buck. My blade engine has been dynoed at 142bhp and weighs in at about 60kg, and that includes the gearbox. Imagine that in the front, or better the back.

I know! But i argree rwd would b 100%better

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