Seicento Sporting SPI 2000

HI guys...
Part of my on going list of stuff that needs doing is to replace the radiator fan switch which has a slight leak coming from its threads, and the temp warning light switch which is playing up as the light on the dash glimmers on now and again even with a cold engine...

Question is, do I need to put sealant or maybe PTFE tape on the threads before doing them up?

Thanks
Phil

It won't do any harm. But usually no.

In both cases I'd use a liquid thread sealer -- but I'd use some on the old fan switch. Might save you buying a new one.

Hylomar Blue is great stuff to have around.
Very useful stuff.

Avoid the plumber's PTFE tape...

Great stuff, thanks guys...

also worth noting the warning light has nothing to do with that sensor - thats on the back of the head, oil filler end - single wire going to it.

blu73 said:

also worth noting the warning light has nothing to do with that sensor - thats on the back of the head, oil filler end - single wire going to it.

Click to expand...

Yep, the one near the oil filler is acting up and flickering the warning light even when engine cold....
The other one is just plain weeping so I thought I'd replace both whilst the coolant is out....

The one on the rad looks a beep to get at

Right....
Swapped out the fan switch which was weeping and used Hylomar Blue on it's threads (thanks for the heads up on that).

Swapped out the coolant temperature warning light switch and sadly, that's still a problem. Checked it with a meter and its resistance is varying with temperature so its clearly the wrong unit (not a switch).
Checked the old one which had been swapped at a garage and that is the wrong one too.
Good news is I now know why my warning light keeps slowly coming on. Proper one is on order.

Nice day so I plucked up courage to change the rocker gasket using the forum guide.
That went without a hitch so good day all round I reckon.

Wish I could shift the top bolts on my rear shockers and I could then get them changed but my ageing muscles can't move them...heyho...

Phil

g4jvf said:

Wish I could shift the top bolts on my rear shockers and I could then get them changed but my ageing muscles can't move them...heyho...

Click to expand...

Lots of GT-85 (start a week before you do the work) every day.

Trick is to use breaker bars or extendible ratchets -- counter hold the nut (keep it still) -- apply torque to the bolt.

fingers99 said:

Lots of GT-85 (start a week before you do the work) every day.

Trick is to use breaker bars or extendible ratchets -- counter hold the nut (keep it still) -- apply torque to the bolt.

Click to expand...

Right, I'll have another go at it...
Got a quote today for having them done....£129 the pair so that's spurred me on to try another DIY...
Do you know off hand what the nut/bolt sizes are?

Phil

17mm? but that's just a guess, really. Bottom ones are same size as top ones.

Thread is a bit odd, so it's worthwhile getting a couple in (FIAT or Fluffy) just in case you have get busy with the angle grinder.

Cheers....
Will measure the bottom ones...
My sockets are too long to get in the space either side the top bolts
so would have to buy a couple of short ones...

No pain no gain

Phil

Rear shocks bolts are m10 so 17mm the nuts are welded on so shouldn't need to counter hold unless they break the welds which I've done before as are only spot welded on

To undo I usually soak them and I've found I can only get a 3/8 drive in there with a bit of tube over the end of the handle to get leverage if needed

The Black Box said:

so shouldn't need to counter hold unless they break the welds which I've done before as are only spot welded on

Click to expand...

That's the point, really. It's a lot easier if you don't undo/unweld the nuts (hence the counter holding). But if you have to get creative, just grind the head off the bolt, crack the weld on the nut, and it all comes apart. Free the nut off the remains of the bolt, either weld back on, or just fit.

Seicento Sporting SPI 2000

Guys
Is the nut on the bottom of the rear shocks welded like the top nuts are...
Managed to finally get the top bolts loose but the bottom ones are refusing even after much soaking and a long breaker bar....
bolt head is now getting punished so if the nut isn't welded I can attack that..

Not doing any more though till new bolts arrive as I reckon they are going to snap and or need cutting off..

Oh and on mine, the bolt heads are 17mm and the nuts are 19mm.
10mm bolt size and 70mm long



Phil

Yep. same as top ones.

fingers99 said:

Yep. same as top ones.

Click to expand...

Thanks

Phil

YEY!

Finally managed to change my rear shocks...
Brute force moved the top two bolts but the bottom bolts had
seized to the inner metal sleeves of the old shocks...
Anyhoo, a thin disc in my grinder soon dispatched those.

Just waiting for two new bolts to arrive..
They are 10mm but have a thread pitch of 1.25
They are 70mm long with 27mm of thread and 36mm of shank...17mm head

Thanks again for the help on here guys...

Phil

g4jvf said:

Just waiting for two new bolts to arrive..
They are 10mm but have a thread pitch of 1.25
They are 70mm long with 27mm of thread and 36mm of shank...17mm head

Click to expand...

27mm + 36mm = 63mm
How do they get 70mm from that...?

David C said:

27mm + 36mm = 63mm
How do they get 70mm from that...?

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Cause I measured them

27mm + 36mm + thickness of head + a pointy bit on end of thread..


Phil

g4jvf said:

Cause I measured them

27mm + 36mm + thickness of head + a pointy bit on end of thread.

Click to expand...

On a normal bolt, you don't include the head in the bolt length.
You only do that for countersunk bolts.