Just cleaned it up and pushed kitchen roll up to edge of joint and left for ten minutes. Retuned and tissue has absorbed water.So looks like water pump off again! So source of leak found ! so I suppose that 's a positive . Now I will go and get some sealent and get on with it.
Thanks once again for your time

CONCLUSION. Having replaced the crank sensor all seems to be fine. So original problem of cutting out when hot has been resolved by replacing the crank sensor. Thank you to all those who helped with advice and I hope this post helps someone else.

good to hear.. Did you fix your water loss issue? Just reading back i'm not sure it sounds like the thermostat is working properly to me, it should be closed until the coolant reaches about 60 degrees and then start opening so the top rad hose should get warm really quite quickly from cold. Sounds to me like it might be stuck open from your description, this results in long warm up period and thus more fuel used - but it takes a long time for the fan to come on if its stuck open which doesn't sound like yours does. Why oh why they decided to not fit a temp gauge to the sei's i will never understand

Post conclusion. Head gasket gone!!!! This had nothing to do with the water loss as it went between 3 and 4 and did not fail in such a way as to alllow water to get into the cylinders. I think it was just a poor quality head gasket ? But who knows ? I've made another post about this ,but I've changed the thermostat too. I also removee a refitted water pump which was leaking slightly

seanhyde12 said:

CONCLUSION. Having replaced the crank sensor all seems to be fine. So original problem of cutting out when hot has been resolved by replacing the crank sensor. Thank you to all those who helped with advice and I hope this post helps someone else.

Click to expand...

How confident are you that this resolved the issue, your head gasket problem aside?

Had the same happen to me today - car cut out in the fast lane of the motorway, which was.... interesting. Called recovery and it started fine, and I was able to get it almost home before it happened again. Took it to the garage where they have given it a going over without finding anything definite. They suggest a trip to the main dealer.

A question for the forum - does the rev counter work off the crank sensor? Because, as the car was failing, I'm pretty certain I saw the revs drop to zero. With the car in gear and some forward motion, should I have been reading some revs even though the engine was not firing?

How big a job is it to get the crank sensor (and probably the belt) changed speculatively?

Crank sensor is likeliest culprit -- by quite a way -- and often won't trigger a code on anyone's diagnostic equipment.

Easy DIY job: remove offside wheel, remove arch liner, unplug sensor, undo 1 retaining bolt, fit new sensor (etc.)

Unsure of why you want to do cam belt at the same time.........

fingers99 said:

Crank sensor is likeliest culprit -- by quite a way -- and often won't trigger a code on anyone's diagnostic equipment.

Easy DIY job: remove offside wheel, remove arch liner, unplug sensor, undo 1 retaining bolt, fit new sensor (etc.)

Unsure of why you want to do cam belt at the same time.........

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Thanks Fingers.

Just unsure of when the belt was changed, thought it might be worth doing while rooting around in there.

you need to borrow axle stand and 8 to 13 mm spanners.
the autos own jack and wheel brace ok to slacked on ground and lift
support with stand
remove plastic inner wing arch
remove bolt securing TDC and ease out wiring from cleats all way back to connector
replace and invert dismantle
you can replace the cam belt at same time but if you just remove the top cover if it looks new id leave it fix one fault at a time easier
if you have no provenance then id do belt and pump at same time as TDC
you need a good quality or OEM pump and instant gasket tube
after removing TDC remove top cam cover two bolts the second is hidden
then the alternator pulley three bolts the pulley will pull off and go back without disturbing adjustment of belt
the next task is getting out lower cover after undoing at least three bolts mission impossible on my SPI...
undo belt tensioner after turning engine to TDC mark there is one for cam and one for crank
replace belt and tensioner check marks same place
reassemble
if doing pump while belt is off undo three bolts and one nut stick drain trays under auto and pull of pump
clean interface plastic scraper only
clean bolt holes with finishing tap
run bead of sealant all way round to keep coolant in and away from bolt holes
leave for 30 mins
reassemble use locktight on bolts so they dont gall
note the alt cover can go back three ways only one will work
don't forget to top up and bleed coolant good quality antifrees.

As fingers says, crank sensor seems to rarely result in a code, and if it does usually something else, like the ecu picked up a misfire a recorded it or similar - never seen it report a crank sensor for that matter that i remember.

i managed to change the crank sensor on my cinq by just lying on floor to get the retaining bolt - and my cinq is lowered... then obviously open bonnet to get at connector. Clearly access is easier with car off floor, either on axle stands or on ramps. But you don't need to remove anything to get at it and i'm very lazy .

Cambelt wise, does it look old, any cracking and how does the tension feel? Worth changing if its feeling slack or just looking past its best. Its no big task but you don't need to disturb the crank sensor to do it so its completely separate job.

blu73 said:

As fingers says, crank sensor seems to rarely result in a code, and if it does usually something else, like the ecu picked up a misfire a recorded it or similar - never seen it report a crank sensor for that matter that i remember.

i managed to change the crank sensor on my cinq by just lying on floor to get the retaining bolt - and my cinq is lowered... then obviously open bonnet to get at connector. Clearly access is easier with car off floor, either on axle stands or on ramps. But you don't need to remove anything to get at it and i'm very lazy .

Cambelt wise, does it look old, any cracking and how does the tension feel? Worth changing if its feeling slack or just looking past its best. Its no big task but you don't need to disturb the crank sensor to do it so its completely separate job.

Click to expand...

Thanks for all the helpful thoughts; however there is zero chance at the mo of me doing the work myself. I might contemplate it, if the car wasn't the daily taxi and I had somewhere off road and dry to work. As it is I picked it up from the garage this morning with a new timing belt, crank sensor and water pump fitted.

Apparently the belt was changed by the seller of the car at 50K miles. However with no way of knowing for sure and having just racked up 80K miles I thought it would be prudent to get it done. Water pump at the same time seemed sensible.

First impressions are that it seems more torquey than before - I actually got unexpected wheelspin leaving the garage. However I have been driving a Kia C'eed these past couple of days so it's possible my judgement has become clouded

In the past it did used to idle a bit roughly, sometimes accompanied by a smell of petrol when the car was hot. It's possible it's always had a timing issue or the crank sensor has been on the way out for a while. I'm just glad it decided to finally play it's hand now, and not during the 600 mile round trip I made a couple of weeks back....