blu73 said:

if the marks are in the right place, its in the right place.

Click to expand...

Yep. It takes several turns of the engine (can't remember how many, off hand) for the marks to line up again (crank speed vs cam speed ans all that). Don't forget to line up the pip on the crank cam belt pulley into the hole in the crank alternator pulley.

it does not matter if you get it wrong unless the head has been skimmed beyond the limit if you think it may be skimmed you need to set the marks up before removing the belt and not rotate until after fitting and tensioning new belt

align both marks on cam and crank & check after you close up the tensioner if you slide on the belt properly this won't happen I.e. if you slide on with slack on tensioner side the cam won't rotate when you move tensioner

check the hole in the alt pulley aligns as you offer it up then run engine

turning the engine over four times by hand is boring unless it skips a tooth in process

some twist the belt on the long run to judge slack/tensioning.

can't say i bother turning it over to check anymore but i did the first few times just to be sure - you get more confident with it once you done it a few times - heck i had the cambelt off and back on again whilst on the stand at Stanford at the weekend, I didn't even take the wheel off haha.

All done chaps. Nice one for the info once more! Brilliant help. One more thing sorry, do I need the tensioner tensioning with propr tool at a garage? I know it says it needs to twist no more than 90 degrees but should I get it checked?

it should be fine, just check the tension of the belt again after you done some driving make sure its not loosened, if not forget about it for the next 50k ish miles

Cars going well people. Anyone ever replaced the eps unit? Wondered if its much of a job?

what symptoms do you have with EPS?

It's not working at all. ?