Hi all. For anyone that´s been having problems with the idle on spi 1.1, I thought i´d add the solucion to my own. So, since i bought the car 3 years ago it had a high idle, 1000-1200 rpm getting worse with the pasing of time 1400-1600 rpm. After a garage changeing the belts, filters, oils and plugs it got a bit worse. Investigating, seemed that the pipe from the carbon filter that goes to the map had a leak. Changed it completely, from tb to carbon filter to map sensor. Made it a bit better but still hunted.Also saw that the 2 fine pipes that go underneath the air filter housing were put on reverse(i think), the tb pipe goes to the M mark and the one from the air intake to N. Correct me if i´m wrong. The other day i decided to dismantle the throtle body, to find out the the gaskets where fubar, beetwen the manifold, the separator piece and the body itself. Removed gaskets, cleaned up, replaced gaskets with gasket paste, carefully, also added on the rubber gaskets between the 2 TB parts to make sure no leaks and all sorted now. A nice and smooth idle. Hope to be of use. Sorry no pictures but it was bit of a flash-op.
General Sorted hunting on SPI 1.1
- Thread starter adr1ean
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General Sorted hunting on SPI 1.1
your map vac line sounds wrong to me for an spi. Should be pipe straight from inlet manifold take off to map sensor. And i think you mean the charcoal cannister above - that should have a breather from the fuel tank to the cannister and from the cannister to the TB.
In the guides there is a diagram of where all the pipes should go. But the diagram is for a punto 60 not a cento so where is says MAP is usually blanked off inside the TB if the cento has its original TB. If its not then it can just be plugged off.
In the guides there is a diagram of where all the pipes should go. But the diagram is for a punto 60 not a cento so where is says MAP is usually blanked off inside the TB if the cento has its original TB. If its not then it can just be plugged off.
I explained myself wrong. The tube that goes to the map sensor comes from a T-joint on the manifold itself(inbetween has a small filter looking thing that has Carb on black manifold half and Dist on white map sensor half written on it). The other manifold exit goes to the servo brake. The exit marked as 10 on the TB has a fine tube going underneath the filter box and plugged in the M mark. Then from the N mark on the air box exits another fine tube that goes to the air intake thermostat(i guess that is what´s it called). These fine tubes plug into some red flap thinghy that looks like a nozzle of some sort, marked as AC inside the airbox. I ain´t got air conditioning so don´t know what that´s for. I guess it´s right because the engine sounds and goes great.
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yeah that all sounds right.
When hunting for air leaks on the inlet side, a light spray of WD40 or similar, or possibly easy start fluid, onto suspected areas will cause a change in engine speed if it gets sucked in. Don't spray too much at a time. a) it gets messy. b) too much can cool the inlet manifold briefly also causing a change in engine speed. c) too much may upset fuelling and catalyst.
If you suspect air leaks out rather than in, washing up liquid will bubble nicely.
If you suspect air leaks out rather than in, washing up liquid will bubble nicely.
surely all leaks are suction leaks on a NA engine..?
Very true, but I didn't mention NA. General procedure can be used with thought and care on all.
