Hi all.

I recently passed my test (4) days before this event and have been learning in my Fiat Seicento Sporting (S reg, 45k on clock) for a year. I really like the car. Ideal for city driving - very fond of it - far more fun to drive than any of my instructors cars.

However...

Within a space of 2 hours it got broken into (in an area normally regarded as 'posh'), stereo robbed, locks on both sides ruined, then to add insult to injury a load of steam ejected from the bonnet on the way home. Devastated

I'll put the violins away now and explain in detail so I may get some good advice from you.

I took it to a garage where they replaced the water bottle which was split. They also said they flushed it and added a new radiator fan switch.

They said they run it for ages with no overheating problems.

I took it back home (4 miles) and the temp alarm light lit up. I could not hear the fan kick in.

The next day I thought I would give it a short test drive with the air heaters on full in the car - there was a lot more slow traffic than I expected. The car drove fine and the temp light did not come on. I then stopped to switch the heating fan off to see if I could hear the radiator fan kick in. I could not. After running idle for a few mins without the in-car heater on, there was a pop, loads of steam and I discovered that the top radiator hose had split. There was no temp light at this point.

Then, with almost comical timing, the fan kicked in...

Oh, by the way when I was running the heater, there was a constant stream of warm air coming through. So I don't think its a heater blockage problem as I heard some suggest.

I have checked for some head gasket problems like emulsified oil but cant find anything like this. - Although I'm not an expert in diagnosing this sort of thing.

I have ordered a new radiator hose, but know that this is but a symptom of an overheating problem.

Some good advice on what my course of action should be would be much appreciated.

I never owned a car before, but I used to be an industrial printer engineer, so I'm pretty handy with a toolkit and am not scared to get my hands dirty.

Help Please!

sounds like its fine to me... the top radiator hose won't have water flowing through it until the thermostat opens so once it gets warm and water starts flowing then you get the steam. Pretty sure it will be fine once you change the hose..

Perhaps fit a temp gauge while you're at it, see the guides section

I would check the thermostatic valve is opening.

Thanks blu73 - I think a temp gauge would be very useful as I have learned that the alarm light does not come on until its way too late. However if it blew a coolant tank and then, when that was fixed, right away blew a radiator hose. This tells me overheating must be the root cause.

The fan is coming on, but way to late.

And thankyou cc1 - I am thinking along the same lines after a night sleeping on it.

This would explain why the fan does not come on when its obviously overheating. I imagine hot water is not getting to the radiator to heat the fan switch.

I suppose my next check after fitting the new hose would be to feel the temp of the radiator or something?

Is there an easy way I can tell if the thermostat valve opening or not?

WayneCento said:

Thanks blu73 - I think a temp gauge would be very useful as I have learned that the alarm light does not come on until its way too late. However if it blew a coolant tank and then, when that was fixed, right away blew a radiator hose. This tells me overheating must be the root cause.

The fan is coming on, but way to late.

And thankyou cc1 - I am thinking along the same lines after a night sleeping on it.

This would explain why the fan does not come on when its obviously overheating. I imagine hot water is not getting to the radiator to heat the fan switch.

I suppose my next check after fitting the new hose would be to feel the temp of the radiator or something?

Is there an easy way I can tell if the thermostat valve opening or not?

Click to expand...

yup, start the car from cold, the top hose should be cold and then get hot quite quickly from the engine end.
If it starts warming from the radiator end, its jammed shut.
Its possibly the previous owner has had a problem and used some sort of sealer in the coolant that's causing all the problems.
For all the cost of a stat, just change it.

Cheers

D

If your replacing cooling parts, it's worth replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor too as it's only a couple of quid.

Mine was playing right up when warm, no fan and engine cutting out etc, till I replaced the CTS at a cost of about £6 !!!

Well as your gonna have to take the top rad hose off, you could whip the thermostat off and do the old stick it in a pan of water test. Can't remember off top of my head what temp it should start opening but clearly should be fully open before water starts boiling. I think it starts opening @ about 65*C and should be fully open at 90*C, but someone may correct me on that, it is stated in the Haynes though if anyone has it to hand.

Remember if you do this you'll need a new gasket to stick it back on again

Thanks guys - feeling better about it all with all this of support on this forum.

I Have in my hands a new top hose and a thermostat both acquired for 25 quid.

My next course of action will be to fit them, fill it with water and see what happens.

Any pitfalls you guys can think of?

I have some silicone grease for the thermostat gasket - is this correct or should I have some special stuff?

Also is there a correct way to fill it with water to avoid airlocks?

Thanks blu73 - Got your post while writing the last one. Think I'll swap it out and see what happens. It was cheap enough. But just out of interest I might try that test on the old one. I'm learning loads here...

Really cant wait to get back on the road - getting the bus to work sucks!

I'll keep you posted...

Silicon grease is no use as the water will just wash it out, you need some instant gasket ideally.
As far as filling, fill it as best you can with the engine off and top back up to max with the engine running, pop the cap back on and use the bleed screws to expel air from the system. Get yourself a Cinq Haynes manual as the basics are all pretty much exactly the same

Meh, from experience a proper gasket is better than instant gasket, i just got a fiat one last time which was only a couple of quid.. this was after using instant gasket and having to take it straight back off.

I have a proper gasket with the thermostat. I was just wondering if I should put some kind of gasket fluid on it?

Someone told me to use some silicon grease but I thought I'd run it by you guys 1st.

i have not used any on mine, i think Ming said he uses the gasket and some instant gasket though. Upto you really but you want blue rtv instant gasket if you do use it.

The paper gasket should be fine on its own. I usually put a smear of blue silicone on mine just because I never really trust them.. but the one time I took a chance and didn't use additional sealant, it was fine.

I think your beast should be okay. I think the radiator hose and bottle would have taken a beating from the issues it had and it may have been a coincidence.

The fan should only come on when the temperature reaches 90C (albeit the 'Cento gauge is a bit random) and the light should never come on (assuming the fan is doing its job and there's water in the system for it to cool down).

Just fill it slowly, bleed it and then top the level in the header tank up. Take it for a run and then check it the next morning to see if the level has dropped again (it might the first time, depending how "bled" it was).

Ralf S.

i think if using a home made paper gasket some sealant is prob a good thing. The proper fiat gasket i bought recently is paper with metal on either side of it, but i swear they always used to be plain paper back in the day.

Last one I had (thermostat) was more like "card" than paper.. but yes, I've seen the foil backed ones too.

Groovy!



Ralf S.

Update:

I fitted the new hose and thermostat, and it seems to run well! Fan kicking in the right time, no temp light, engine does not seem excessively warm. Great!

I just ordered some locks from Ebay., 2 door barrels and and ignition with key for 25 quid.

Ordered in a rush - and thought later that there might be more that one type. Does anyone know if I could have possibly ordered the wrong type?

btw - thanks again everyone,:worship: so glad to be back on the road!

did you bleed the radiator/system when you filled it with coolant? this is essential

Yes I did. There was a bleed screw coming out of the drivers side wing.

Have I missed any other bleed points?

There's another one at the back, coming out of the heater matrix.

Regarding changing your keys, locks and barrel, your immobiliser will throw a fit and will likely need to be disabled (which will increase your insurance). Why do you need/want to change them?