Hi,

Having had my head under our Sei for the first time this last weekend, (I'm starting to deal with the surface rust underneath before the winter weather appears.

Noticed some concerning areas, however it appeared to be mostly surface, I'll have to remove all the wheel arch liners and deal with what I find. What is the best rust stuff to paint on, is it POR15?? Blasted expensive, but looks the bees knees - what are the thoughts, is there anything cheaper??

I also noticed the condition of the brake pipes!!!! Is it possible to buy a brake pipe kit, if so, where from?? Or would copper brake pipes be a good idea?? I notice that it is possible to buy copper brake pipe kits for cars, is there one for the Sei??

Ideas & advice sought

Cheers

Jon.

PS, looking for a MPi radiator cooling fan, can anyone help??

Probably be just surface rust, easy to deal with
Just wire brush back the worst of it and then clean over with a mild degreaser (fairy liduid and warm water for example) then coat in waxoxyl, cheap(ish) underseal. Thats what Todger and i have done with my car, very cheap to do.
The black colour of the waxoxyl wouldnt be seen in the arches either and will provide plenty of protection.

As for brake pipes, just done the whole car with copper/nickel pipes. Size 3/16.
I used 2 rolls of this: http://bit.ly/tdZf3x
Have to bend it all yourself and would need a pipe flaring kit, plus all the connectors. A dozen or so of these http://bit.ly/v80c1v
Might as well upgrade to braided hoses as well

Pirus

just sat down and thought i need to buy some pipe and unions and this thread pops up.. Cheers Pirus, just ordered both of them

u can go stainless union

The catch with stainless is it will win the war of crossthreading etc. Id rather have to replace a brass union than a caliper/master cylinder.

hmm is a catch 22 that ... i rather not have them rusting , rounding/snapping.

Ming

i'm with dan on this one.. its the cheapest part so the best bit to replace.

Every day unions are zinc plate steel and will probably out last the car.

cc1 said:

Every day unions are zinc plate steel and will probably out last the car.

Click to expand...

Any more thoughts on the rust question folks? I did have to chip away quite a job on the rear bumper brackets, thought I might go through at one point!! Have to do the N/S rear very soon, have heard that Hammerite is not recommended, if anyone's read about POR paint, then they'll understand why I'm asking about it, it's just the price of it...

Cheers about the advice on brake pipes

Does anyone know if I can buy a ready made kit in a bag??

Cheers again.

Jon

This. http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-products/misc/granville-heavy-duty-rust-cure-250ml.html

fiat will sell you a set of solid brake lines, ring your nearest dealer and ask for price..

I think Fluffy does the copper ones, too. Aounf 50 - 60 quid a set?

POR 15 or Epoxy Mastic will have it over Waxoyl which is very much the last century's product. Don't forget to put a cavity wax inside the cavities.

cc1 said:

This. http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-products/misc/granville-heavy-duty-rust-cure-250ml.html

Click to expand...

i went over my full car with the product above then underseal .

Having used Por15 on a number of projects when it used used to be a fair bit cheaper, I can safely say I won't be using it again. If you get this stuff on your hands, face etc. it will be there for weeks, don't ask! It sticks to skin a hell of a lot better than metal.
The advantage of the product is that it absorbs water, so in theory you can paint straight over rust and it should prevent any further corrosion and give you a nice durable coating. However after needle scaling the whole underneath of a Hilux Surf and then painting it with the stuff I can safely say it chips off like any other paint. It bonds well to rust but it sure doesn't like even a slightly smooth surface, even when you use their marine prep stuff. I use body Shutz now which is really easy to apply:

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-products/schutz-underseal-1-litre.html

However if using any poduct like this it is essential to remove all the rust and moisture otherwise you'll just be sealing it in. This is worse than not covering it at all! Rust needs to be removed never ever covered.

I am quite fortunate where I live as in we have mild winters so very little if any salt is used on the roads. This means you will actually struggle to find a rusty Cinq/Sei. The factory finish does a great job until the salt gets to it.


As for stainless brake nipples/unions there OK in aluminum calipers and such but I find you have to do them up silly tight in any hard metals to get a seal. I would not recommend them to anyone.

Cheers

OK, with base Cinq hopefully acquired this week, this is what I'll be using.

Brakes, stainless braided "aeroquip" type flexibles, swivel one end, with staunless fittings (cos if you don't get stainless end fittings they corrode horrobly and look pants in 12 months) -- I may buy them in ready made, may make them up -- I like making them up. For rigid hoses, cupronickel (kunifer) with brass fittings (I'd thought of doing the lot in aeroquip, but it freaks some folk out and if I use kunifer I can use the existing clips). As the seal should be formed by the taper, providing the machining is half way competent I anticipate no leaks/cross threading/etc. I've never had any issues in the past.

For the underside, after any welding, Epoxy Mastic. The title says it all. It has great adhesion (because it's an epoxy) and high enough build to resist stone chips (cos it's a mastic). It ain't cheap, but it consistently outperforms the others in tests. Were I building a show car, I might consider POR 15, but I don't build show cars.

For cavities (and I expect to create at least 2 new cavities!) I'll use a cavity wax that can handle a little internal rust.

Re corrosion treatment, can I also suggest a search in the Detailing World forums (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/) and a look at the Bilt Hamber Laboratories anti-corrosion products (http://www.bilthamber.com/).