Hey all,

have got my 1242 all ready to go in gearbox and everything on, but the timing left to do, although i know the timing is out, how do i go about finding the TDC and/or do the timing?, cheers
(NB have got haynes here but cant understand it )

edit; oh and can i just remove the belt, then line up the marks then put the new one on? or do i need to line up the marks before taking the belt off? am very confused about this all

I'd have thought it's the same on the 1242 as it is on the 1108, i.e. just line up the timing marks on both the camshaft pulley and the engine pulley, then fit the cambelt. Should be a piece of p*ss if the engine's out of the car!

On the smaller cam belt pulley at the bottom (not the alternator pulley), there's a line engraved. This wants to be lined up with the top end of the raised lip on the alloy casting next to it - look at around the 10 - 11 o'clock position.

Cam pulley wants to have the notch on it at the 9 o'clock position, lined up with the notch in the cam cover/head.

:yeahthat:

Line the marks up with the belt off, then carefully fit the belt so that you don't move the pulleys, tension the belt up and check that the marks still line up.

Correct me if I am wrong but the CRANKshaft pulley makes two revolutions to the CAMshaft pulleys one revolution.

So before you put the belt on make sure that the piston in cylinder number one is at the top (take spark plug out of cylinder number one, put your finger in the hole and line the mark up on the Crankshaft pulley until you feel pressure on your finger). If this is not done then you could have the engine firing when it is trying to push what it thinks is exhaust gases.

HTH

David

David, if you have the crank pulley mark lined up then the TDC position can't be off.

but surely if the timing is out this will affect it? as my timings out hence me doing this stuff (think duff tensioner), engine is still on the floor, at mo, got the engine crane today so goes in tomorrow

oh and pete wheres the smaller cam belt pulley? is it behind the alternator one?

edit; ignore first bit petes already addressed it

I thought that the Crankshaft pulley has to make two revolutions before it's back at the top of the cylinder or am i wrong?

David

so in short, i can just take this belt off, line up both notches on the pullys to the ones on the head/block (is the second one on the block?) and then slap the tensioner in and put the marks on the belt lining up with the notches on pulley and away i go? (well and retension) if so its alot easier than haynes makes it out to be

peaster2k said:

I thought that the Crankshaft pulley has to make two revolutions before it's back at the top of the cylinder or am i wrong?

David

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Nope, think you've got a bit confused here matey! The CAMshaft rotates at half the speed of the crank (as the pulley on the camshaft is twice the size of the one on the crank), I think that's probably where you've got a bit mixed up. The pistons are attached directly to the crankshaft; so a piston will move all the way up and all the way back down in one revolution of the crank.

GhostWKD said:

so in short, i can just take this belt off, line up both notches on the pullys to the ones on the head/block (is the second one on the block?) and then slap the tensioner in and put the marks on the belt lining up with the notches on pulley and away i go? (well and retension) if so its alot easier than haynes makes it out to be

Click to expand...

that's about right although there aren't any marks on the belt itself as it doesn't need to be lined up. The belt holds the two pulleys in position relative to each other and so they stay properly aligned (I'm not very good at explaining stuff, sorry ). The pulley on the crank is the little one behind the alternator pulley (you need to take the alternator pulley off).
The Haynes manual talks an awful lot of s***e, as I recall it blather on about needing some special tool to hold the pulleys in place and crap like that. Utter garbage so long as you don't turn the pulleys away from their lined-up positions when you fit the belt!

Ahh right, i see now. I was thinking they rotated at the same speed, hence 2 revolutions to one.

Thanks

David

right lol will get it done tomorrow then, cheers all for your help everyone really is appreciated haynes scared me with lots of complicated sounding talk

i have some better pics of timing markes than haynes in this thread if you need them.
https://www.fiatforum.com/showthread.php?t=19733

thats ace dave, thanks v much

Once you have fitted the belt and got it all tensioned, take the spark plugs out and turn the engine at least two full revolutions of the Crank. If it won't turn by hand then there is a problem.

Assuming it turns OK make sure the timing marks are still lining up after you have turned the crank. If not, reset and retry.

Cheers

D

ok have just removed all spark plugs and lined up the marks and put new tensioner on, and was surprised to find the condition of cylinder #1's spark plug to be (note 2 of the prongs are still ok, one has been crushed inwards mm from the electrode at best, and other well you can see that ones gone sideways);

ok am really panicing now, was turning the belt (its on not sure if its correct yet as am in middle of panic) and it isnt making the normal tsss kinda compression noise, its making more of a wolp (lol) sound, kinda like the sound computer cames use for when swimming kinda thing if that makes sense? so am now panicing that its head gasket (reason i justified doing this swap was because old hg went, and cheaper for me to change engine than it was to fix hg)

If you have the time, best thing would be to whip the head off and have a look while it's on the garage floor. Much easier to fix there. The damage to no1 plug doesn't look good.

If you run out of time with the hoist, at a pinch you could fit the engine and box minus the head for the time being - as long as you keep everything nice and clean.

found the compression prob (hadnt replaced plugs after removing), timing belt fitted, new mounts fitted back and pas side, ive got the time but if i remove the head am guessing i then need a new gasket set and also need a torque wrench (and shops not open lol ) am hoping that the #1 plug damage was just when the belt slipped then the piston (or something?) has slingshotted up and caught the plug slightly or something maybe? have got the engine crane till 4th but am thinking now, fit the engine tomorrow and get all wires in, and see if it runs ok, or if spark plug in cylinder 1 gets a smash obviously get head off and have a look (need the car 100% going by 10th as i start my new job )

The pistons shouldn't hit the plugs at any time - the plugs are in a fixed position and the piston travel will be the same no matter what happens. I suppose it's possible the plugs could have overheated and become damaged previously.

Fit the new plugs and see if it all turns over easily, but first you could have a look down the plug hole to see if the piston is ok. Turn the engine slightly to see if there's anything else in there of interest.