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Technical Woj's turbo project
That'll do nicely! While you've still got it apart, why not take the die grinder to the weld where the flange meets the downpipe (inside). While it remains, you're effectively running with a smaller exhaust.
Yes, I will do all final polishing like that over time. With this particular one the problem is that almost all the welds throughout the exhaust are like this, so even if I get rid of this one, the others will remain...
Yeah, it's a shame, cos otherwise it's a neat peice of fabrication. There is a process called "extrude honing" -- basically an abrasive sludge is pumped through the pipe -- but I don't know anyone who does it.
I'd worry more, though, about the circular decreases in volume than the longitudinal ones, if you see what I mean.
I'd worry more, though, about the circular decreases in volume than the longitudinal ones, if you see what I mean.
Well, on the one hand I really want to make everything professional, so that no surprises and silly limitations appear on the way. On the other hand I will be really happy if (a) I can even finish the project (likely I will), (b) the car will run at all (less likely), (c) the car won't blow out (very likely 
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you'll be fine dude, theyre pretty easy mechanical wise.. electrical is the hardest part imo!
Mind you, there's always the "Ker-BOOM!" factor........
Some more acquisitions, a 190mm flywheel (200mm is kind of more difficult to get second hand, hope 190mm will do just fine):
And a 2mm decomp plate (slowly giving up on the idea of doing the 1.2 16V piston conversion):
And a 2mm decomp plate (slowly giving up on the idea of doing the 1.2 16V piston conversion):
You may of course. I have problems sourcing them out second hand and in good condition, the set of new ones is way too expensive. But I haven't started on serious search yet. Second, less important, reason, I was thinking it might be worthwhile to have the decompression mod easily reversible. But, of course, if I manage to get my hands on good 1.2 16V pistons I will have a go at it. Any suggestions are welcome (car breakers in the country of residence are difficult to access for me, language barrier). I have the decomp plate ready just in case, got it in Poland, it was really cheap, especially when compared to Ferriday (spell?) stuff...
I had to register, to give my nickle on this one.
While youre at it, why not make it flow properly, instead of this.
In my opinion, you will seriously obstruct good flow, when wastegate opens.
You are dealing with some quantities of gas here after all.
I did a solution like yours, allthough mine was a "how-cheap-and-how-long-will-it-last" car - without milling in the downpipe-flange (Dont quite now the word for it, im Danish lol).
I could feel my little Polo 1,3 struggle with high backpressure at 1,1 bar turbopressure, making it a somewhat dull experience at high rev's.
As an experiment, i removed the downpipe, with a much perkier car as result.
I ran 1,1 bar on completely stock internals 55hp 1,3 vw polo engine from 89, even with carburettor (Saab turbo fuelpump and malpassi regulator, to keep the carburettor filled under pressure, actually worked a charm, though fuel consumption went through the roof).
With that said, all I actually wanted was to show you something I saw some time ago, which, in my eyes, would be a significant performance enhancer for your car, when driving it a little frisky;
EDIT: Actually, i cant show you, as it doesnt allow me posting links, before i've got 5 post, so ill try this instead:
http:/ /img96.imageshack.us /img96/9496/ downpipe.jpg
Ive planted 3 spaces in that link, remove them, and youll be golden
While youre at it, why not make it flow properly, instead of this.
In my opinion, you will seriously obstruct good flow, when wastegate opens.
You are dealing with some quantities of gas here after all.
I did a solution like yours, allthough mine was a "how-cheap-and-how-long-will-it-last" car - without milling in the downpipe-flange (Dont quite now the word for it, im Danish lol).
I could feel my little Polo 1,3 struggle with high backpressure at 1,1 bar turbopressure, making it a somewhat dull experience at high rev's.
As an experiment, i removed the downpipe, with a much perkier car as result.
I ran 1,1 bar on completely stock internals 55hp 1,3 vw polo engine from 89, even with carburettor (Saab turbo fuelpump and malpassi regulator, to keep the carburettor filled under pressure, actually worked a charm, though fuel consumption went through the roof).
With that said, all I actually wanted was to show you something I saw some time ago, which, in my eyes, would be a significant performance enhancer for your car, when driving it a little frisky;
EDIT: Actually, i cant show you, as it doesnt allow me posting links, before i've got 5 post, so ill try this instead:
http:/ /img96.imageshack.us /img96/9496/ downpipe.jpg
Ive planted 3 spaces in that link, remove them, and youll be golden
Last edited:
It's OK. Better to either run a seperate wastegate or to place a seperator between the wastegate outlet and the turbine and make the re-entry angle of the wastegate flow into the downpipe occur at as small an included angle as possible.
(Although this is, to be frank, a pretty clunky example.)
Of course, removing the downpipe altogether will result in better results -- essentially any derestriction in the exhaust will increase power (no scavenging effect necesssary) -- although it may have some negative impact on off boost performance.
(Although this is, to be frank, a pretty clunky example.)
Of course, removing the downpipe altogether will result in better results -- essentially any derestriction in the exhaust will increase power (no scavenging effect necesssary) -- although it may have some negative impact on off boost performance.
Im aware of it, but it wasnt a small performance improvement, it was huge.
The car really died out in the high rev's, that just dissappeared, and it really pulled through.
It was my second turbocharging project, but the first on a low budget (As it was my wintercar). The whole project, including fuelpump, regulator, turbo, and pipes for making the manifold cost me about 500$, and this bone-stock engine ran 7 months on 1,1 bar, without a glitch. After 7 months, i felt confident enough to try raising the boost to 1,2 bar, but first test run took its turn on the headgasket, blowing a huge hole between 2 cylinders.
I have a 3rd project on the coming right now, t3 turbo, external wastegate (with screamerpipe ofcourse), so allthough i am an amatour in the world of turbocharghing still, i just had this wastegate-nickle, i thought i would share for the benefit of your project
The car really died out in the high rev's, that just dissappeared, and it really pulled through.
It was my second turbocharging project, but the first on a low budget (As it was my wintercar). The whole project, including fuelpump, regulator, turbo, and pipes for making the manifold cost me about 500$, and this bone-stock engine ran 7 months on 1,1 bar, without a glitch. After 7 months, i felt confident enough to try raising the boost to 1,2 bar, but first test run took its turn on the headgasket, blowing a huge hole between 2 cylinders.
I have a 3rd project on the coming right now, t3 turbo, external wastegate (with screamerpipe ofcourse), so allthough i am an amatour in the world of turbocharghing still, i just had this wastegate-nickle, i thought i would share for the benefit of your project
You can get ARP head studs for those engines (rather than the bolts) which should better compress the gasket. Next step is a solid copper one, next step solid copper with metal O rings.
fingers can you give me some more information on these head studs? are the 8v head fasteners the same size as the 16v ones? (16v bolts being M10)
i need some uprated ones ASAP but i dont want to pay a fortune on custom bolts, so any info would be appreciated
i need some uprated ones ASAP but i dont want to pay a fortune on custom bolts, so any info would be appreciated
OK, some update is due. Not that the project got halted, on the contrary, it is going strong. First of I collected enormous amount of stuff, too much too even try to list. Then I got ECU (re-)programming sorted out. The downpipe underwent some modifications (I was afraid it would scratch the road, as it would be only 6-7cm over the ground and first thing on the front). The engine was cleaned up, dismantled into bits and given for slight rebuild. Came back two weeks ago. Also got a long ratio mint condition Sei gearbox yesterday. Today I finally started reassembling the engine. Some pictures below, mostly from today's work. One picture is the engine bottom before renewal.
I've been neglecting the thread, contrary to the car. Last Saturday the old engine went out, the new one was dropped in, 12 hours continuous work with two persons helping. The plan was to finish the rest on Sunday, but it was raining the whole day. So step by step over the week, tomorrow it should hopefully run. A teaser:
