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fair enough but its overdone. the tube is like half the original diameter
Tuning turbo time!
- Thread starter craigb244
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Tuning turbo time!
fair enough but its overdone. the tube is like half the original diameter
looks like it... but dont forget that it could already be half kinked and we only have a side veiw.
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nah its not kinked.
when it comes to fitting to my car ill tidy it all up. can you use them silicon pipes like the boost pipes for the radiator?
when it comes to fitting to my car ill tidy it all up. can you use them silicon pipes like the boost pipes for the radiator?
how do you know its not half kinked? if thats just squashed by the zip tie then it will have folded in on itself anyway. So logically its holding it half open instead. i cant explain why it works, but im pretty sure ive seen it done before.
yeah you can use silicon pipes for water as well
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yeah you can use silicon pipes for water as well
good stuff! just worried that the coolant might react with silicon. should be easy to rig up then as them things come in all shapes and sizes.
Silicon tubing main usage in the motorsport world is for routing coolant around the engine bay, my engine bay is full of the stuff
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cool! you buy it online? im sure ill end up buying loads of bits cos non of it fits so i might fit it as it is then go to a place near me who make the stuff and other motorsport bits (made my braided brake lines £35 for all 4!) and see if they will take a look!
ebay is the key; the cheap stuff has improved in quality over the past year or two, so im told.
jeeez, i think you should take that rad off, kick it around some more then stick it back on....looks a right mess
sorry Craig, its just dawned on me that its YOUR car in that pic For some reason i thought you were using someone elses car for reference! Dopey me.
so with regards to that zip tied pipe, how is it not squashing the insides in? have you chopped it off to see what the pipe will do?
For some reason i thought you were using someone elses car for reference! Dopey me.so with regards to that zip tied pipe, how is it not squashing the insides in? have you chopped it off to see what the pipe will do?
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LOL! tell me about it! to be fair it looks new but someone fitted the oil cooler infront of it (cable tied to the bumper!!!) so thats rubbed it and the pipes rubbed the bottom. plus its a alloy one so you only need to breath on it to make it look messy
sorry Craig, its just dawned on me that its YOUR car in that pic
so with regards to that zip tied pipe, how is it not squashing the insides in? have you chopped it off to see what the pipe will do?
oooh haha. its just cable tied and its evenly squished the pipe diameter. I never removed it cos i thought it must be done for a reason.
That rad is fecked re-new it as it works much harder on a turbo set up.
You are fortunate in that the 4 branch water pipe set up is the later type with a plastic section and the rubber pipes joined on, earlier models have a complete rubber moulded set up so you can't use your own silicone pipes.
Here's some pics of my old turbo set up, you may notice i routed the expansion tank hose up and away from the turbo as on many turbo set ups this pipe melts as it passes behind rad right next to the very hot turbo.
You are fortunate in that the 4 branch water pipe set up is the later type with a plastic section and the rubber pipes joined on, earlier models have a complete rubber moulded set up so you can't use your own silicone pipes.
Here's some pics of my old turbo set up, you may notice i routed the expansion tank hose up and away from the turbo as on many turbo set ups this pipe melts as it passes behind rad right next to the very hot turbo.
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Hi J333EVO
thanks for the tip
you radiator looks like the the new one fitted on my N/A the one on the turbo is very fine! but anyway ill swap them around!
your pipe work looks very neat! I was planning on getting someone i know to tig weld up a load of the boost pipes in ally tube so maybe i can do like you have and get some for the coolant done!
on my turbo the pipe along the engine from the water pump is very twisted and looks stressed. any tips on how you did yours as it looks a weak point. I was going to machine a barbed end so i can fit a new rubber/silicone tube that can be routed away or around the turbo (or to be more precise waste gate solenoid) but looks like it will be hard to mount solidly to the block.
thanks for the tip
you radiator looks like the the new one fitted on my N/A the one on the turbo is very fine! but anyway ill swap them around!
your pipe work looks very neat! I was planning on getting someone i know to tig weld up a load of the boost pipes in ally tube so maybe i can do like you have and get some for the coolant done!
on my turbo the pipe along the engine from the water pump is very twisted and looks stressed. any tips on how you did yours as it looks a weak point. I was going to machine a barbed end so i can fit a new rubber/silicone tube that can be routed away or around the turbo (or to be more precise waste gate solenoid) but looks like it will be hard to mount solidly to the block.
On VAD turbo conversions the metal pipe from the water pump that runs along the engine block was modified, it had an extra piece welded on ot the end to ensure it cleared the turbo and in effect pushed the 4 branch section away from turbo/wastegate.
I know we did something similar to Emma's turbo car as her water pipe had been modified by VAD but was very badly corroded due to coolant not being changed enough.
New pipes from Fiat are only about £20 and new pipes are modified to ensure a much better fit at the water pump, instead of a thin O ring, it now has a wide rubber band sealing ring which is much more durable. If the pipe is damamged I'd buy a new one and then modify it to clear the turbo.
Getting water pipes made up in metal is fine, ith silicone joiners at each end. I used a variety of wire reinforced silicone Samco pipes so yopu can bend them and they do not crush in on themselves and metal pipe like top of engine bay at slam panel where i wanted to secure thepipe in place.
Again I bought a new from Fiat Sei MPI expansion ank as its only £20ish new with new rad cap which is rated at higher pressure, 1.3BAR V's 0.9bar on Cinq SPi IIRC, looks better too as you can see coolant better.
Just looking at that picture I realised we have none of those cars anymore, the blue turbo Cinq was bought by Fingers, the yellow N/A Cinq went to a guy on Club Cento, the yellow turbo Cinq went to Martin, and the 2L 16V conversion MG Maestro was sold to an old couple in Oxford!
I know we did something similar to Emma's turbo car as her water pipe had been modified by VAD but was very badly corroded due to coolant not being changed enough.
New pipes from Fiat are only about £20 and new pipes are modified to ensure a much better fit at the water pump, instead of a thin O ring, it now has a wide rubber band sealing ring which is much more durable. If the pipe is damamged I'd buy a new one and then modify it to clear the turbo.
Getting water pipes made up in metal is fine, ith silicone joiners at each end. I used a variety of wire reinforced silicone Samco pipes so yopu can bend them and they do not crush in on themselves and metal pipe like top of engine bay at slam panel where i wanted to secure thepipe in place.
Again I bought a new from Fiat Sei MPI expansion ank as its only £20ish new with new rad cap which is rated at higher pressure, 1.3BAR V's 0.9bar on Cinq SPi IIRC, looks better too as you can see coolant better.
Just looking at that picture I realised we have none of those cars anymore, the blue turbo Cinq was bought by Fingers, the yellow N/A Cinq went to a guy on Club Cento, the yellow turbo Cinq went to Martin, and the 2L 16V conversion MG Maestro was sold to an old couple in Oxford!
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thought i would have the car running today! not quite tho. got it wired up (got it wired as simple as possible with only the needed sensors connected)
The car fires but wont run. I will need to get the timing light out tomorrow. Im running the same wheel settings i am on the N/A and would of expected that to get it going hummm
The car fires but wont run. I will need to get the timing light out tomorrow. Im running the same wheel settings i am on the N/A and would of expected that to get it going hummm
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Got the driver then?
You got and 02 sensor? same injectors. Probs jsut needs more or less fuel
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yeh got the driver
aint stole the lambda from my car yet. dont think there is much point as there jumpy and near enough useless at idle...
injectors are bigger but i used to Req-fuel calculator to change the settings.
on half term now so ill get put bright and early to get this thing going.
once im sure the timing is right ill tweak the fuel
aint stole the lambda from my car yet. dont think there is much point as there jumpy and near enough useless at idle...
injectors are bigger but i used to Req-fuel calculator to change the settings.
on half term now so ill get put bright and early to get this thing going.
once im sure the timing is right ill tweak the fuel
Just to add you need to use Fluro lined hoses for anything that oil goes in.. otherwise they fall to pieces and bits of the hoses don't do the engine a lot of good..
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cheers. not touchin oil lines. the oil cooler and lines are perfect it just need repositioning
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It lives!
and runs pretty well. started first turn of the key after fitting a new(er) VR sensor.
just running the same map and setting as my N/A at the moment just with the fuel turned up a bit for protection.
and runs pretty well. started first turn of the key after fitting a new(er) VR sensor.
just running the same map and setting as my N/A at the moment just with the fuel turned up a bit for protection.
