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Lowering guide: rear suspension
dropping the rear
Published by levemircento
15-03-2008
Lowering guide: rear suspension

Sorry, I have no pics for this one, so please submit if you can, and hopefully a mod will put them where suitable.

Tools:
Jack
Axle stands
1/2 drive socket set
Spanners
WD40 or similar
Ramps

Time:
About an hour

Difficulty:
Easy

Following is a brief guide to removing/refit rear springs.

Firstly, plan ahead a couple of days, get to the various nuts and bolts with some WD40 or similar, it will help a lot.

Removal

Get the back of the car up with a jack under the sill, careful not to lift under the floor, as the jack might go up, and the car might not. Once up, as high as you can get it, secure it with axle stands.

Remove each rear wheel

On the passenger side, you might find it easier to remove the exhaust back box, to aid access to the rear arm mounts there.

Under the car, using a socket and spanner, crack undone the 4 mounting bolts holding both rear arms to the subframe, you just need to loosen them slightly to allow the rear arms to drop down easier.

Put a jack under one of the rear arms, a block of wood as a spacer if needed, jack the arm up slightly to compress the spring.

Undo the bottom nut and bolt that holds the shock absorber, push the shocker upwards out of the way.

Carefully let the jack down, the bottom arm will drop much further than the opposite side, and the spring will decompress and become loose.

Take care not to stretch the brake pipe, if it looks like its under stress, undo it - but bear in mind of you do that it will need to have a brake pipe clamp to stop the fluid from dribbling out, and also, you will need to re-bleed the brakes upon refitting.

When fully decompressed, the spring will pull out from the top of the arm.

Leave the bump stop how it is, unless your new springs are REALLY low, then you may need to cut it slightly.

Refitting:

Insert your new spring, remember which way up it goes, as long as both sides are the same, it will be fine.

Carefully, jack up the arm, and make sure you position the spring top into its housing.

When happy the spring is seated correctly, continue to lift the rear arm with the jack, and pull back the lower shocker and line it up with its holes, put the bolt back in, and tighten it up.

Release the jack, the spring will now be held in place by the shocker which stops the arm from dropping, and keeps it under tension.

Ideally, refit the wheels and get the car on some ramps, retighten the bolts holding the rear arms, this will ensure the bushes are twisted too much when your car is lowered back to the floor.

Repeat other side, afterwards refit back box [if removed]

Refit wheels, lower car to the ground, if you have fitted lowered springs, then put a couple of bricks under each wheel or blocks of wood, otherwise it might drop so low that you cant get your jack out, then just roll the car off once the jack is out of the way.


This job is easy, the only hard part is initially getting the rear arm mounting bolts undone, which can take a lot of force, have somebody around to make sure you are safe, as the force can possibly make the car unstable on axle stands. Better be safe than sorry.

Nik
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The following 3 users say "Thank You!" to levemircento for this useful post:
richard33dees (27-09-2009), Smiler121 (08-02-2009), TWINSTA (10-05-2009)
Old 01-08-2008   #1
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

hi can you tell me what way up progressive springs should be fitted??
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Old 01-08-2008   #2
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

Originally Posted by SRIDAVE View Post
hi can you tell me what way up progressive springs should be fitted??
are they the ones that are tightly wound at one end?
I dont think it matters as long as they are both the same way up.
General opinion from others is that the tightly wound coils are put at the top to stop road dirt accumulating which could lead to the coil rusting.
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Old 01-08-2008   #3
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

Thanks man took all day to find out. i put the small pitch at the bottom as that is the way up the writing was read on the springs. feels alot better now and looks cool too. still not sure what the right way is .oh well ooar im cornish
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Old 17-12-2008   #4
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

How tight should the bottom shock absorber be tightened, have just tightened mine up it felt tight then it went loose again have I striped the thread? Was only using a small spanner to tighten cant se myself strong enough to do that, should I also use some lock tight on these threads?
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Old 10-07-2009   #5
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

Thanks for the guide Levemir
The most involved work I'd done on a car before today was an oil change, so doing this was an interesting experience! It was pretty straightforward, but I found that a fair bit of brute force was needed to get the springs in/out. That said, I didn't bother to loosen the arms from the subframe and the springs I was putting in were only -15mm from sporting height and were actually longer than my standard springs.

The whole thing was made more exciting by the fact that I needed my cento in one piece to get me to work this evening

I gouged the arms a bit trying to get the springs on and brushed the brake lines a few times, but they look fine and my brakes still seem to work...

I found the cheap spring compressors I'd bought on eBay to be a waste of time.

Quinn Direct needs an engineer's report for all modifications, so I've booked her into the garage to get the fronts done and the form signed.
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Old 10-07-2009   #6
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Re: Lowering guide: rear suspension

glad the guide was useful for you

you shouldnt need spring compressors for the back, and I doubt they would work anyway as the spring tends to be in a curve, but they might be useful for the front although the front springs are a funny shape so be careful.

perhaps you should have undone the arm bolts, twisting the arms down that much with the bolts tight might do damage to the bushes

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