Technical T-jet 120 brake replacement

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Technical T-jet 120 brake replacement

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Yeh it's probably been covered many times. I've been searching the Internet for a good hour now to no avail

I need to replace brake discs and pads. I've got serious warping passenger side and I'm getting bad heat fade after only 20 minutes of driving.

Basically i would like them to be improved if I can so looking at grooved/drilled discs with good pads for the front (possibly red stuff or green stuff whichever is better)

The only things I can find are on gazzelle sport or some site like that. I'm pretty sure there's probably others but I think I'm limited by the fact I keep searching for 120 t-jet parts and everything seems to be for the 150. Are they the same? And can someone help me out with recommendations and links.

I also wouldn't mind replacing the rears but I'd replace them with OEM disc and pads as they are fine but I might as wel do the lot at once.

Please help me. I'm lost in the Internet and can't get out.

(I also don't want top of the range £200 discs and £100 pads etc. I'm not a boy racer I just want good brakes that don't try and kill me every half hour)

Cheers fiat form (y)
 
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What i can say for sure: the front brake disks are different between the 150tjet and the 120tjet.
they are slightly smaller in diameter for the 150tjet (281mm vs 284mm for the 120-tjet).
And the disks for the 150t-jet are thicker (26mm vs 22mm for the 120tjet).
So the calipers should be different...
The front pads also seem different between the 2 engine models.

I would recommend you just get some good quality parts like ATE, Brembo, TRW or Bosch (would recommend ATE).
And to be sure you remove the brake fade, i would also replace all the brake fluid ( would recommend ATE SL.6 dot4).

Rear brake pads: ATE 13.0460-3991.2
Rear brake disc: ATE 24.0110-0190.1
Front brake pads: ATE 13.0460-3983.2
Front brake disc: ATE 24.0122-0147.1
 
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What i can say for sure: the front brake disks are different between the 150tjet and the 120tjet.
they are slightly smaller in diameter for the 150tjet (281mm vs 284mm for the 12-tjet).
And the disks for the 150t-jet are thicker (26mm vs 22mm for the 120tjet).
So the calipers should be different...
The front pads also seem different between the 2 engine models.

I would recommend you just get some good quality parts like ATE, Brembo, TRW or Bosch (would recommend ATE).
And to be sure you remove the brake fade, i would also replace all the brake fluid ( would recommend ATE SL.6 dot4).

Rear brake pads: ATE 13.0460-3991.2
Rear brake disc: ATE 24.0110-0190.1
Front brake pads: ATE 13.0460-3983.2
Front brake disc: ATE 24.0122-0147.1
Just to clarify would these discs work for the front?http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfo...mance-front-brake-discs-front-pair-284-x-22mm

Couplenwith these pads for the front
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfo...nce-brake-pads-front-pad-set-bosch-calipers-2
 
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Yes on both (based on the dimensions specified).
Just make sure you receive those parts.

I did once have Brembo Max discs on my last car, and they were great. But i would not get them for the Bravo because it just eats discs to fast.
 
What about Shop4parts?

I've used ferodo parts in the past and been more than happy. I use my local motorfactor hereward car parts maybe worth a call to your local see what parts they can supply?

Agreed with brake fluid should he changed every two years.
 
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What about Shop4parts?

I've used ferodo parts in the past and been more than happy. I use my local motorfactor hereward car parts maybe worth a call to your local see what parts they can supply?

Agreed with brake fluid should he changed every two years.

Yeh I tried shop 4 parts, they were actually quite expensive in comparison. Using their cheapest parts and not including delivery it came to £160



In the end I used euro car parts, I used parts from the same company which weren't even the cheapest ones on there sometimes. But the parts are all from a company called Pagid. Who after a quick google had got pretty good reviews. And they also include a 25 month/25,000 mile warranty

This was my order from them. They made it even easier on euro car parts too as they only let me order parts for my exact car using registration number. Where as shop4parts you had to make sure to check out whether it was for the 120 or 150 (though it was labeled easily enough I found it a bit confusing when scrolling through the parts to see what they had)

 
Used Pagid stuff on all my cars, dont have a need for the fancy ones and never had an issue with these and for the difference in price between them and the next cheapest (Eicher??) they are totally worth it
 
So I replaced the brakes today with my replacement parts. Everything fitted brilliantly. The parts seem top notch. And bedding them in is already going well. ABS has already kicked in a few times I didn't expect it too. And of course having shiny brake discs is always nice. (Until it rains of course and I end up with rusty edges)

Few pointers for anyone wanting to change the discs and pads. Especially on a Bravo but may be applicable elsewhere.

1) always make sure you have somewhere to fix the calliper when you take it off. Nearly dropped my first one before resorting to cable ties through the spring. silly mistake I know.

2) Bravo discs have weird pins in the discs that are used to hold them in place. Be very careful with these. I nearly rounded one of them because there isn't much bolt at the bottom of them for you to actually grip. Lots of penetrating fluid and grip pliers were my only option.

3) I found I was able to get the discs out by only removing one of the 2 bolts holding the caliper housing in place. I loosened the other one and was able to lift it away enough to get the disc out. Something to help save you a bit of time and effort.

4) the front Pistons are very easy to push back in how ever the back callipers are those horrible ones that have to turn and push so make sure you have the proper tool for it. Also the pads I had actually had a tiny little nob on them, it has to sit within the piston inside a recess so make sure it's allogned and prepare to get mad with it.

5) my bravo actually had a pad sensor I was unaware of (nice surprise). Passenger side inside pad for my model. Be careful not to damage the main wire and connector from the car. The connector that comes attached to the pad should have a nice groove on the back which allows you to slide it onto a nicely placed guide.

6) the set of pads I bought came with clips for the front pads and none for the back. They're pretty easy to replace on the front and probably didn't need replacing as they stayed in place nice and easily when I removed the old pads however I had no replacements for the back ones and nearly lost one. So do take care and make sure you have enough clips for the job (they're not the same clip)

Most of the brake change was the same as any other so make sure to remember safety with the change. And don't forget the little things like. opening reservoir cap when pushing Pistons back. Making sure car is chocked, pumping the brakes when you finish before actually moving anywhwere. Bedding your brakes in etc

But anyway all in all it wasn't too bad. So anyone needing brake work I thoroughly advise you do it yourself, will save you a fortune in garage costs. Garage by me quoted me £315 all around for brakes and disc change. I got it all done myself for £136. :)

Happy driving Fiat Forum.
 
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Brembo Max is Far East recycled steel rubbish, they wear out very, very fast.
Pagid is a decent brand, quality like Original Fiat parts.
Next time have a look here:
www.mtecbrakes.com for discs.
http://www.remmenexperts.nl/en/ for pads.


I use Mtec grooved only, Black Edition discs with Ferodo DS Performance pads, as replacement for the stock parts, perfect combination, at a fraction of the OE cost...
( And I use Hel brakelines with Castrol React brake fluid).
 
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Recently updated mine to brembo discs (not max, grooved Or anything) with yellowstuff pads. The braking performance over before is unreal. The car actually stops on demand (y)

Good observations on your post. The rear Pistons I found were a right pain. You also have to make sure you wind them in the right way - get it wrong and the piston will be knackered.
 
Recently updated mine to brembo discs (not max, grooved Or anything) with yellowstuff pads. The braking performance over before is unreal. The car actually stops on demand (y)

Good observations on your post. The rear Pistons I found were a right pain. You also have to make sure you wind them in the right way - get it wrong and the piston will be knackered.
I found the Pistons a right pain on the back. Getting them lined up to the knot on the back of the pad was the worse.

I find these parts way better than my old ones already. I did look at updated discs and pads but money was getting daft. And I don't plan on keeping this car forever so I'm not gonna stick money into it I'm not getting back.
 
AFAIK Pagid makes OEM brakes components for Porsche... so they should be pretty good.

Did you also replace the brake fluid? if not, you should, because it's probably old enough and the old pads and disks might have boiled it many times.
 
AFAIK Pagid makes OEM brakes components for Porsche... so they should be pretty good.

Did you also replace the brake fluid? if not, you should, because it's probably old enough and the old pads and disks might have boiled it many times.
Brake fluid was changed at last service. Which was about 7 months ago. I had cap open to ease pressure when pushing Pistons back and it looked very clear still. No darkness to it at all. So I'm gonna be cheap and leave it be haha
 
AFAIK Pagid makes OEM brakes components for Porsche... so they should be pretty good.

Did you also replace the brake fluid? if not, you should, because it's probably old enough and the old pads and disks might have boiled it many times.

Brakefluid can't boil, water can and will.
As brakefluid is hygroscopic, it will attract water, boiling water=damp and can be compressed, resulting in failing brakes.
 
Brakefluid can't boil, water can and will.
As brakefluid is hygroscopic, it will attract water, boiling water=damp and can be compressed, resulting in failing brakes.

Get your facts checked.
Brake fluid does boil : "Note that although the DOT 4 designation has a minimum dry and wet boiling point, a DOT 4 racing brake fluid may have a dry boiling point over 600F."

That basically says that the boiling point is different (lower) after some time as the brake fluid has absorbed some water.
 
OK, lets put it this way: under normal conditions brakefluid will not boil, unless temps reach 600 degrees Fahrenheit (=~300Celcius)...
Water boils at 100 Celcius though...
So it's very important to check the amount of saturated water in the hygroscopic brakefluid.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-LED-...-Auto-Automotive-Digital-Tester-/171722779616


$_57.JPG
 
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A video would have been good for changing brake pads etc
 
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