Hi, Which Brand of Brake Pads, are Best for Fiat Bravo 1.9D M Jet.

I have been looking at Europarts and considering buying some Bosch Brake Pads for front and back costing me £57.92

Does anyone know any other sites? Or which brand of Brakes do you buy?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/F...cad1e6bd3da2111aefef3343fd7838683424&1&000036

Hi,
I tend to fit mintex or ferodo , never given me any dramas on any car . I also tend to replace the discs as well as for how much they cost these days you may as well do them !

Cheers for now,

sparkyonline said:

I have a 1992 Tempra which is the saloon version of the Tipo.

Well, I have removed the rear silencer and replaced it with a piece of exhaust piping leading to the rear of the car. I did use 2" pipe but the noise was a bit much on long trips, so I just changed it for 1 7/8" which makes it a bit quieter.

I'd like to know for sure if it'll pass a UK Mot like this. The join is perfect, no blowing and it's well secured. What do we think?

Click to expand...

Heard a lot of good feedback on the "greenstuff" pads,also with helping prevent as much brake dust which cant be bad

Yeah will check them out thanks for the advice

I bought all my parts at atp autotile from germany and four discs with all break pads was 130€ last year, and they are great,car stops as it should, had done all the tests for the mot without a problem.

This is gonna sound bad but stick with standard spec, I had green stuff on standard disc's which faded, so fit EBC dics's which faded, now running RED STUFF pads which have now warp the discs, our brakes are just far too under sized
When your looking up pads for a Big Diesel Bravo and it lists 1.4 mito 1.2 Stilo you know things are not gonna end well

If you want performance stuff, at a decent price:


Discs: www.mtecbrakes.com ( grooved only, and if you fancy: Black Edition).


Pads: Ferodo DS Performance.
http://www.remmenexperts.nl/en/

Run this combo on my 150HP Alfa Romeo GT jtd for more than 3 years, with perfect results! ( second set is on now...)
( and I did fit a set of red, Hell brakelines....)

I'm using stock rotors with yellowstuff pads all round, I was going to go for greenstuff but I heard they are really bad with fade, any sort of heat in them and they give up.
I'm still bedding them in, from cold they're good, not as good as the ferodos my prev owner put on the front, but when you're at speed and you slam on god do they stop you quick, i'd highly recommend them, and if you're splashing out get some mtec discs too they're supposed to be good.

just bought PAGID pads from Eurocarparts for wife's car (she pootles)

i have OMP Sport pads on my car (i hoon)

just serviced mine as the front squealed when using , I put it down to car been stood for a while so took them apart cleaned cooper eased hey presto still squeal after a few miles rrrrr

Most likely its going to be your disc. I to had the same issue turned out that the new disc were warped. A replacement set was given under warranty but had to pay more labour to sort the issue out.

dtwelve said:

just serviced mine as the front squealed when using , I put it down to car been stood for a while so took them apart cleaned cooper eased hey presto still squeal after a few miles rrrrr

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How are your disks?
The brakes will squeak if there is any glazing on the disc.
Mine had very little glazing on the inner most part of the disc, close to the hub.. where the brake pad starts to contact the disc. because of that it would sound as if a train was coming into the station... horrible!
Got it sorted with a angle grinder and a few hours of patience.

Sorry to hijack the thread slightly. But it's all in topic and saves making a whole new thread

When changing discs and pads. Is there a torque setting for the calliper figment? On some cars there are. I've never done it with a fiat though. Or is it just a case of tighten it until you can't tighten anymore?

Matthewr1990 said:

Sorry to hijack the thread slightly. But it's all in topic and saves making a whole new thread

When changing discs and pads. Is there a torque setting for the calliper figment? On some cars there are. I've never done it with a fiat though. Or is it just a case of tighten it until you can't tighten anymore?

Click to expand...

there will be a published figure - yes

in practice torque is achieved by using the correct spanner for the bolt size

torque is force x distance and you will notice spanners get longer the bigger the size of the jaws

so if you apply a reasonable* tightening force while holding the spanner at the end you will achieve the correct torque

torque wrenches were invented for unskilled labour on production lines, (you also get air powered tightening tools that are calibrated to achieve a torque figure) a real mechanic rarely uses a torque wrench, with the exception of critical items such as wheel bearings and cylinder head bolts

* reasonable means give it a good manly turn still it stops turning then a bit more

Matthewr1990 said:

Sorry to hijack the thread slightly. But it's all in topic and saves making a whole new thread

When changing discs and pads. Is there a torque setting for the calliper figment? On some cars there are. I've never done it with a fiat though. Or is it just a case of tighten it until you can't tighten anymore?

Click to expand...

Elearn says to tighten in 2 steps:
- 15 Nm
- 30-33 Nm
Here is the entire procedure:
View attachment eLearn - front brake pad replacement.pdf

aurick86 said:

Elearn says to tighten in 2 steps:
- 15 Nm
- 30-33 Nm
Here is the entire procedure:
View attachment 145859

Click to expand...

cool thanks for sharing

30 Nm - that's not very tight at all...

odd when you typically need the assistance of a mallet to loosen the caliper bolts...

this is a good reference guide if you insist on using a torque wrench (bolt grade is marked on top of head)

http://www.wtools.com.tw/STANDARD-BOLT-TIGHTENING-TORQUE.shtml

RobW said:

cool thanks for sharing

30 Nm - that's not very tight at all...

odd when you typically need the assistance of a mallet to loosen the caliper bolts...

this is a good reference guide if you insist on using a torque wrench (bolt grade is marked on top of head)

http://www.wtools.com.tw/STANDARD-BOLT-TIGHTENING-TORQUE.shtml

Click to expand...

They are tight because of the Loctite.
After seeing the tightening chart i have to say that i don't think the replacement bolts ( that come with new pads) are of lower grade.. 8.8 max.. so 30 Nm.. that would be to much.
As long as the new bolts have loctite... i don't see them coming out.

Locktite I used that about 10 years ago for an old moped I used as a get around. The bolts for the kick starter casing kept unscrewing themselves with the vibrations. I used this stuff and it made the bolts stay in ... For about a day more lmao. Never bothered with it since as I've thought it was a con. But if it advises I use it then suppose I had better.