How easy is it to replace this. I am still getting the good old injector warning light and a diagnostic test didn't show anything. I am figuring this is the problem having read some other threads ans wonder how easy and cheap is is to replace.

Oh BTW I have a 1.4 98 Bravo.

very easy, you need a spanner and thats it. its a 15 minute job.

jack the car up and you can get a spanner on the lambda sensor, it comes off easily enough.

the wiring connector for the sensor is hidden behind a black plastic cover. this cover is located at the back of the engine bay, slightly left of centre under the windscreen when looking at the engine. there are 2 knobs you need to loosen off to remove the cover.

the easiest way to fit the new one is to lower the new sensor down from where the connector sits. copy the original wiring route to make sure things go back where they should.

Has the car been on examiner?

Thanks for the replies, but before I look at doing this, a couple more questions.

Firstly, would the lambda be the cause of starting problems when the engine is warm. WHen the engine is stone cold it starts first time, but when hot or warm (ie when is been switched off from anything from 10 mins to a few hours) I turn the key and all I get is a loud humming noise and the rev counter needle shooting up. After a few attempts the engine fires and sometime the warning light stays on and sometimes it goes off. Though I must say this doesn't happen every time I try to start form warm.

Secondly how much does one cost and where would the best place to get one be?

Thanks.

Timbo11 said:

Thanks for the replies, but before I look at doing this, a couple more questions.

Firstly, would the lambda be the cause of starting problems when the engine is warm. WHen the engine is stone cold it starts first time, but when hot or warm (ie when is been switched off from anything from 10 mins to a few hours) I turn the key and all I get is a loud humming noise and the rev counter needle shooting up. After a few attempts the engine fires and sometime the warning light stays on and sometimes it goes off. Though I must say this doesn't happen every time I try to start form warm.

Secondly how much does one cost and where would the best place to get one be?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Ooops, forgot to mention I had a new starter motr fitted in DEcember last year and have recently replaced to coil pack.

Timbo11 said:

would the lambda be the cause of starting problems when the engine is warm. WHen the engine is stone cold it starts first time, but when hot or warm (ie when is been switched off from anything from 10 mins to a few hours)

Click to expand...

that sounds exactly like lamba failure- BUT!!

Timbo11 said:

I turn the key and all I get is a loud humming noise and the rev counter needle shooting up. After a few attempts the engine fires and sometime the warning light stays on and sometimes it goes off. Though I must say this doesn't happen every time I try to start form warm.

Click to expand...

this means it can not be the lambda. a lambda fault does not stop the starter motor turning. your problem is excess resistance in the starting circuit when hot. this prevents the starter motor getting enough current to turn the engine, this can be due to:
1. dirty battery terminal connections (clean and grease them)
2. damaged or corroded earth strap (under battery, check it out, its commonly a problem)
3. dirty or corroded connections on the starter motor (recent motor means i'd check this first and clean then grease them up)

jug said:

that sounds exactly like lamba failure- BUT!!



this means it can not be the lambda. a lambda fault does not stop the starter motor turning. your problem is excess resistance in the starting circuit when hot. this prevents the starter motor getting enough current to turn the engine, this can be due to:
1. dirty battery terminal connections (clean and grease them)
2. damaged or corroded earth strap (under battery, check it out, its commonly a problem)
3. dirty or corroded connections on the starter motor (recent motor means i'd check this first and clean then grease them up)

Click to expand...

Wow so I was half right lol.

How easy is it to check the connections on the starter motor, where exactly are they, what do they look like and (please don't laugh) what sort of grease do I need to use .

I was reading on another thread about someone with a similar sounding problem who was recommended to disconnect the battery overnight to reset the ecu. Worth doing that.

Timbo11 said:

How easy is it to check the connections on the starter motor, where exactly are they, what do they look like and (please don't laugh) what sort of grease do I need to use .

Click to expand...

a haynes manual would probably be very useful if you arent confident about doing this and dont know where things are.

on the starter motor there is a big live wire that is bolted on. this needs to be removed and cleaned up. there is no earth wire since the starter motor earths to the engine. this is why the earth strap is so important, the engine earths to chassis through the earth strap.

i use copper grease for pretty much everything (except wheel bearings) because it lasts for years and can take a lot of heat.

there is a quick test you can do to see if the earth strap is the problem. next time it wont start use a length of wire to earth the engine directly to chassis. if the engine then starts you know the earth strap is the problem. a jump lead is ideal for doing this test. you can touch any metal part of the engine and any god earch on the chassis, using the jump lead clamps to keep it in place while you try to start the engine.

Timbo11 said:

I was reading on another thread about someone with a similar sounding problem who was recommended to disconnect the battery overnight to reset the ecu. Worth doing that.

Click to expand...

there's no point doing that.