Having replaced the head gasket in my 1.4 bravo last weekend and then suffered through key problems before starting it, there is yet more problems. The engine starts and runs but makes the a really loud rattling noise from under the rocker cover. Got a mechanic to look at it and he says the timing is a tooth out where i have put it back despite it all lining back up when i putit back. Decided tp get a second opinion but the second mechanic just agreed with the first. Only problem is i dont know how to reset the timing!! The Haynes manual i own tells you how not to lose it if you are removing the timing belt but not how to reset it if you do lose it. Help me!!!

Cheers

If its a tooth out all you have to do is take the belt off after lining crank up and reposition cam to correct position and slide belt back on.

NumanR said:

If its a tooth out all you have to do is take the belt off after lining crank up and reposition cam to correct position and slide belt back on.

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How'd you know which way its out ie tooth clockwise or anti?

if the marks on the crankshaft pulley and both cam pulleys line up when the new belt is fitted the timing cant be out. however did you check your marks after turning the engine through a couple of complete revolutions with the tensioner at full tension? i would check your marks again now, it wouldnt be the first time i've seen them magically go out of alignment after use. if they are out, at least you can use your marks to sort it out.

if all 3 are still in perfect alignment i would do a compression test.

actually now i think about it, when the timing is a tooth out the engine does not rattle, it simply has powerloss. so i greatly doubt a rattle could be down to the timing. a rattle sounds much more like a dry, loose or worn tappet.

please can someone help me, i brought a fiat bravo 1.8 16v, started it up on the button, and drove it home, what i didnt know was that it had a small hole in the rad, which in turn cooked the head( hot), so the head came off and skimmed, replaced with a headset along with a water pump, thomostate, timing belt kit and alt belt, put it back together with the cam locking tool, and it took ages to start, so i changed the cam wheel and the cam sensor on that wheel, still the same, so i went on to change the tdc sensor on the back of the block(knock sensor and the rpm sensor on the flywheel, still the same, i did a compression test and 1 is low but now enough for it to not start, ive since had the injectors changed, the injector rail changed, the air flow meter, the pressure regulater, all 16 buckets, full service kit, and all sensors on the car changed??? still have a problem with it starting, once it dose start, the car runs fine with no smoke or loss of oil, secondly, there is a little hose from the injector rail to the manifold, if i turm it over there is no sucking from the pipe until it fires up, where it sucks quite strongly, if i get a mate to suck on the pipe then i start it, it starts first time??? if i leave the pipe off, the car drive ok, a bit choppy but ok, if i connect the pipe back, when i come to a sharp stop, the engine dies???? its been to my dealer, and the examiner shows no fault whatsoever, except key code, yet the code light gose out no problem,


please can someone help me

regrads

ps, do anyone think the timing is out?????

i'm not sure why you've added this to the end of an old thread about a 1.4 that rattled, surely a new thread would have been more suitable


this issue with the pipe shows that the problem is very probably the idle control actuator, which is easy and cheap to replace so try that.

when you have the pipe disconnected it creates a vacuum leak, which increases the idle rpm. you wouldnt need to do that if the idle rpm was getting controlled by the ecu.

the pipe you're playing with is the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator.

you would not expect there to be any suck on this until the engine starts because it is manifold vacuum that creates the suck on this pipe.

when you suck on the pipe when starting you are creating artificial manifold vacuum.

Agreed, new threads are always best.
Following from what you and jug have said, I can only see the following.
If you are sucking from the manifold, then you are not sucking from the fuel regulator. Even at cranking speed some vacuum is created , and I suggest that the fuel regulator is out of calibration so that it cuts pressure on the slightest of vacuum.
Try sucking from regulator to see if this inhibits starting/running.
I have to admit having no direct experience of the Bravo engine.