General ecu re-mapping
- Thread starter vikkih110
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General ecu re-mapping
if its a bigger/smaller engine you need the ecu for it, but if its same size engine you have been told bolloks
if you replaced your engine with one the same then it doesnt need 'remapping', or anything else. if it wont start there is probably a wiring problem (most common on engine swaps) or something wrong with the engine (was it definately working prior to fitting?).
alternatively if you have fitted a different type of engine to the previous one then you need the ecu for that type of engine, yours wont work on a differnt engine. if you do change the ecu you'll also have immobiliser problems.
very few of the bravo/a ecu's can actually be remapped at all, but even if it can you never need to remap an ecu when fitting a new engine. a remap is usually £200-500 and done to improve power and torque curves.
you couldnt remap an engine unless it was working anyway, unless you loaded a prewritten map. but your ecu has the default prewritten map already so why would you need to?
basically who ever fitted the engine either fitted a duff engine, or didint fit it correctly, but either way they dont know what they're talking about if they told you to get the ecu remapped. go and slap them and tell them to get it working.
alternatively if you have fitted a different type of engine to the previous one then you need the ecu for that type of engine, yours wont work on a differnt engine. if you do change the ecu you'll also have immobiliser problems.
very few of the bravo/a ecu's can actually be remapped at all, but even if it can you never need to remap an ecu when fitting a new engine. a remap is usually £200-500 and done to improve power and torque curves.
you couldnt remap an engine unless it was working anyway, unless you loaded a prewritten map. but your ecu has the default prewritten map already so why would you need to?
basically who ever fitted the engine either fitted a duff engine, or didint fit it correctly, but either way they dont know what they're talking about if they told you to get the ecu remapped. go and slap them and tell them to get it working.
cheers for your help.
the engine was working as he drove it about 15 miles. it sat in the drive for about a week then when tried it again it wouldnt go at all.
he said a desira main dealer told him it needed remapping. he cant even get it to start with the emergency procedure. the dealer told him it would go for a few miles so you have enough time to get it to a dealer to be remapped.
i dont get all this and am guessing i am being fleeced!
the engine was working as he drove it about 15 miles. it sat in the drive for about a week then when tried it again it wouldnt go at all.
he said a desira main dealer told him it needed remapping. he cant even get it to start with the emergency procedure. the dealer told him it would go for a few miles so you have enough time to get it to a dealer to be remapped.
i dont get all this and am guessing i am being fleeced!
so you are saying the car drove fine with the new engine fitted for 15 miles?
if that is the case then something fairly simple must be wrong with it.
i would not take it to the dealership if they said it needs to be remapped. when you fit an engine it does not "go for a few miles so you can get it to a dealer", that is completely false. i would think it is much more likely that they are trying to rip you off, or at least trying to get the car so they can look at it and charge you for the privledge, before trying to get you to agree to have some work done. its a classic attempt to get you to give them the car.
i'd get a local mobile mechanic to come out for a quick look, or the AA. if it was working there cant be much wrong with it.
when you try to start it does the engine make a noise and try to start or do nothing at all and make no noise?
if it does nothing i'd check the battery hasnt gone flat while the car stood for a week, that could happen. it could also be a case of the alternator is not charging the batery so when the car was used for 15 miles it drained the battery. it could also mean the starter motor has seized or failed.
however i guess that the engine is still trying to start because you have attempted to use the emergency start procedure, and that would be pointless if the engine wasnt even trying to start. in that case there are many things that could have gone wrong over the last week. i know one thing for sure, an ecu remap wont solve it. any half decent mechanic should be able to help, and it will be far cheaper than going to a dealer.
if that is the case then something fairly simple must be wrong with it.
i would not take it to the dealership if they said it needs to be remapped. when you fit an engine it does not "go for a few miles so you can get it to a dealer", that is completely false. i would think it is much more likely that they are trying to rip you off, or at least trying to get the car so they can look at it and charge you for the privledge, before trying to get you to agree to have some work done. its a classic attempt to get you to give them the car.
i'd get a local mobile mechanic to come out for a quick look, or the AA. if it was working there cant be much wrong with it.
when you try to start it does the engine make a noise and try to start or do nothing at all and make no noise?
if it does nothing i'd check the battery hasnt gone flat while the car stood for a week, that could happen. it could also be a case of the alternator is not charging the batery so when the car was used for 15 miles it drained the battery. it could also mean the starter motor has seized or failed.
however i guess that the engine is still trying to start because you have attempted to use the emergency start procedure, and that would be pointless if the engine wasnt even trying to start. in that case there are many things that could have gone wrong over the last week. i know one thing for sure, an ecu remap wont solve it. any half decent mechanic should be able to help, and it will be far cheaper than going to a dealer.
thanks for the info jug!
it was a local mechanic that did the engine change!
if you try and start it say first thing in the morning it will make a noise like it is trying to start (but obviously wont), then after that you dont get any noise at all. the emergency start worked a few times and now not at all.
he only rang the dealer because he is completely stuck
he took the fuel pump off and hooked it up to a battery and it worked perfect, but when wired back up to the car - nothing. thats when the dealer said its the ecu.
now we can rule out the ecu probs i'l suggest he check the wiring again.
thanks again for your help!
it was a local mechanic that did the engine change!
if you try and start it say first thing in the morning it will make a noise like it is trying to start (but obviously wont), then after that you dont get any noise at all. the emergency start worked a few times and now not at all.
he only rang the dealer because he is completely stuck
he took the fuel pump off and hooked it up to a battery and it worked perfect, but when wired back up to the car - nothing. thats when the dealer said its the ecu.
now we can rule out the ecu probs i'l suggest he check the wiring again.
thanks again for your help!
sounds like its time for basic checks.
tell him to try jump starting using another car with its engine running.
if it then fails to start he should remove the spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry.
if they are wet then petrol is successfully making it into the cylinders so it isnt a fuel pump or injection problem, and in that case he should check the sparkplugs are actually sparking.
if they are dry then no fuel is getting to the cylinders and the problem must be injection related (that could also include ecu or immobiliser faults).
if the sparkplugs are not sparking it may be the coil, they commonly fail.
also tell him to try starting it with the red key, thats the master key and it should not be used for day to day driving, but it can be useful for ruling out immobiliser faults as the red key will always override the immobiliser, where as a blue key may not.
tell him to try jump starting using another car with its engine running.
if it then fails to start he should remove the spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry.
if they are wet then petrol is successfully making it into the cylinders so it isnt a fuel pump or injection problem, and in that case he should check the sparkplugs are actually sparking.
if they are dry then no fuel is getting to the cylinders and the problem must be injection related (that could also include ecu or immobiliser faults).
if the sparkplugs are not sparking it may be the coil, they commonly fail.
also tell him to try starting it with the red key, thats the master key and it should not be used for day to day driving, but it can be useful for ruling out immobiliser faults as the red key will always override the immobiliser, where as a blue key may not.
if the ecu wasnt sending a live to the coil and fuel pump its usually because the immobiliser is stuck on. basically the mechanic has bypassed the immobiliser because he couldnt get it to swith off with the key. thats almost certainly because a red key was not used. do you have the red key? its very important at times like this. without it fiat will no doubt advise you to get a new ecu and keys and locks. tell them to sit on a spike if they say that, you can instead fit second hand parts for a fraction of the cost.
still searching for the red key - it aint long since we moved and its probably still in a box somewhere.
so am i right thinking that if we start it with the red key this resets everything and it will then start ok with the blue key after that?
sorry to sound so dim - but i am female!!!!!!
so am i right thinking that if we start it with the red key this resets everything and it will then start ok with the blue key after that?
sorry to sound so dim - but i am female!!!!!!
the ecu is matched to the red key, so it will start with the red key if the immobiliser is the problem (which seems very very likely).
but to get the blue key working again you need both the blue keys.
then its simply a matter of;
-insert the red key
-switch on igniton
-take red key out
-insert the first blue key
-switch on igniton
-take first blue key out
-insert the second blue key
-switch on igniton
-take second blue key out
-insert the red key
-switch on igniton
-take red key out
between taking one key out and putting the next in you have only a few seconds so be quick. it sometimes takes a few attempts.
then it will be back to normal.
if you cant find the red key, or you're missing one of the 2 blue keys, you wont be able to do this. in which case an ecu, lock set (1 ignition barrel, 2 doors, 1 boot, 1 petrol cap) and key set (1 red, 2 blue) is needed. that costs £100 at most places and fitting isnt hard at all.
fingers crossed it wont come to that and you'll have all 3 keys.
but to get the blue key working again you need both the blue keys.
then its simply a matter of;
-insert the red key
-switch on igniton
-take red key out
-insert the first blue key
-switch on igniton
-take first blue key out
-insert the second blue key
-switch on igniton
-take second blue key out
-insert the red key
-switch on igniton
-take red key out
between taking one key out and putting the next in you have only a few seconds so be quick. it sometimes takes a few attempts.
then it will be back to normal.
if you cant find the red key, or you're missing one of the 2 blue keys, you wont be able to do this. in which case an ecu, lock set (1 ignition barrel, 2 doors, 1 boot, 1 petrol cap) and key set (1 red, 2 blue) is needed. that costs £100 at most places and fitting isnt hard at all.
fingers crossed it wont come to that and you'll have all 3 keys.
