Firstly a very big hi to everyone, this is all very new to me.
Having a horrible squealing sound from my Brava 1.4, which got worse when I pushed the clutch down. I decided to change the clutch, which I did over the last few days, whilst stripping down the clutch I saw a sticky black mess at the end of the slave cylinder, so a new one of them fitted.
While the car was on axle stands I started the engine went through all gears, very gently, and everything seemed fine. Now the car is back on the ground I find that I cannot select any forward gears or reverse.
If I start in first, with the clutch all the way down the car starts but then the biting point is only about 1" up from the floor. I have bled the slave cylinder and there does not seem to be any bubbles in the system, also when the clutch is pressed I can see the slave arm pushing the selector.
Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to anyone in advance BOB

1.4? It is supposed to have cable clutch.

Check the joints on top of the gearbox haven't lifted up (just remove battery tray) and if you have cable selector, check the sleeves haven't come off the mounts.

Thanks for a quick reply.
There is definitely a slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox under the battery tray, then there were 2 cables for the selectors?

Well, seems you have 1.2.
1.4 has one rod and one cable for selectors.

Good for you as 1.4 is not a good engine when compared to 1.2.

I assume it has OBDII and electronic throttle, as the non OBDII 1.2 had cable clutch and cable throttle.

Just pump the clutch back and forth and bleed it again with somebody.
It took me some time to get it perfect on 2.0.

Neverth said:

Well, seems you have 1.2.
1.4 has one rod and one cable for selectors.

Good for you as 1.4 is not a good engine when compared to 1.2.

I assume it has OBDII and electronic throttle, as the non OBDII 1.2 had cable clutch and cable throttle.

Just pump the clutch back and forth and bleed it again with somebody.
It took me some time to get it perfect on 2.0.

Click to expand...

bleed it,
you may find a pressure bleed helps here..,
is it the combined header ( with brake master cylinder),
or the little clear pot..??,


On my tempra, ( combined header)
I had to put 30 psi into the line to clear the blockage of crud in the supply line : - {


charlie

Thanks for the replies.
This flaming clutch is really getting to me now.
We stripped the box down again, I did find that the retaining bolts on the pressure plate were not tight and hoped that it could cure the problem, but no.
Where we are now is-
The car is still in the air at the fron, on axle stands.
Will select all gears fine and smooth, without engine running.
Will select gears if the front wheels are turning.
Will not select gears if I press the brake to stop wheels.
Now the weird bit-
If I start the car in gear, with clutch down and brake on, it will do so. While keeping the brake on if I then bring up the clutch it will travel about 3/4 of the way up before feeling it bite, just about where I would expect it to be, I can then bring it quite a bit further before it will stall the engine.
This seems to be showing that the clutch is working ok.

I have fitted a new slave cylinder, and well bled it.

Any help Please!!!:bang:

1: Clutchdisk stuck on gearbox mainshaft (no grease/dirt on the grooves -> drags on pressureplate or flywheel even whith clutch engaged)

2: The bearing on the flywheel is gone (the one where gearbox mainshaft centers itself) and is dragging the gearbox with the engine.

Did you check either of those?

EDIT:
3: Gearbox and engine are not in line, but that is unlikely

The first two I did not check.
If the disk is stuck I wonder if I could get away with wd40 via the inspection opening?

TrailerBob said:

The first two I did not check.
If the disk is stuck I wonder if I could get away with wd40 via the inspection opening?

Click to expand...

Defiantly do not spray WD40 through the inspection housing you will contaminate everything, the clutch will just slip after that.

Id be looking at the clutch release bearing (you should have fitted a new one with the clutch kit). Like Neverth said the clutch disc binding on the shaft. Other than that it might be something more serious.

Sounds like some confusion as to which engine you have Maybe the you got the wrong clutch kit?

This is the 1.4
https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/data/1914/medium/car-03.jpg

This is the 1.2
http://worldcarslist.com/images/fiat/fiat-brava-14-sx/fiat-brava-14-sx-12.jpg

Thanks for the info.
I definitely have the 1.2, even if the 1.4 looks far nicer.
I did fit a new thrust bearing so it looks like it might be 3rd time lucky, when I drop the box, again. I will strip it down this time and take all off, then start from scratch.
I am getting quite adept at the job now though.

It's odd thathe brake application seems to affect the clutch / gearchange... don't forget that the brake and clutch hydraulics are essentially connected so you should really flush and bleed the brake lines through as well (always helps to free off the bleed nipples now and again in any case..).

It's possible that the gearbox received some damage associated with the squealing you first reported, but hopefully not.

Can you explain why you said the car was a 1.4 and not a 1.2? Did you get the right clutch? I changed the clutch on my 1.2 Brava and it was a really feeble thing, I'm sure a clutch for the older 1.4 (Tipo engine / gearbox basically) is a lot more substantial.

bluejohn125 said:

It's odd that the brake application seems to affect the clutch / gearchange... don't forget that the brake and clutch hydraulics are essentially connected

Can you explain why you said the car was a 1.4 and not a 1.2? Did you get the right clutch?

Click to expand...

my thoughts exactly ,
I'd asked the OP for an explanation of the brake related symptoms.. in one of their other posts/threads,

charlie

A big big thanks for the replies.
I now have a working clutch.
The warning this highlights is wherever you buy a clutch kit from, make sure that the friction plate will slide over the gearbox main shaft. In this case it didn't.
I had bought the kit from Car Parts 4 Less, and it was correct for the car.
Fortunately there was very little wear on the old clutch, but the thrust bearing was disintegrating,this was replaced other than that we have put the old clutch back on.
I am now awaiting contact from CP4L so that I can return what we have not used.

Thanks for the update, glad you got there in the end.

TrailerBob said:

A big big thanks for the replies.
I now have a working clutch.
The warning this highlights is wherever you buy a clutch kit from, make sure that the friction plate will slide over the gearbox main shaft. In this case it didn't.
I had bought the kit from Car Parts 4 Less, and it was correct for the car.
Fortunately there was very little wear on the old clutch, but the thrust bearing was disintegrating,this was replaced other than that we have put the old clutch back on.
I am now awaiting contact from CP4L so that I can return what we have not used.

Click to expand...