Tuning Bravo HGT track day car

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Tuning Bravo HGT track day car

johnd84

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Nov 20, 2011
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Hi all,

i'm currently preparing a hgt 20v as a track day car and was wondering if anyone had any hints or tips for preparing these.

So far i have removed the aircon, stripped the interior, removed all the sound deadening, fitted bucket seats and harnesses, put decent front discs on, fitted ds2500 pads, fitted bonnet pins and removed the catch cable and lever, fitted an induction kit and a better exhaust.

i also plan to get rid of the sunroof and fill the gap with ally, remove all the glass and replace with lexan, remove all the electric window stuff and fiit ally door panels.

the things im still pondering are front spring rates and ride height, front and rear camber angle, front caster angle, brake bias adjustment??, and tuning options for the engine.

if anyone has any input or advice then that would be great, i am a mechanic by trade and have prepared and driven a few track cars, so i'm really looking for tips that relate to the bravo rather than generalised advice.

sorry for the long post, thanks, john.
 
TBH your best bet will be to search for "track" or "race" post titles in the Coupe or Tipo sections, more likely that these cars have been done like you plan and underneath they're all the same.

There's a guy called Rich who built a proper full-on race Tipo 16V, find his thread...
 
You've done the main stuff but I'd put a bolt in cage in.

Spring rates - stiff 130 Nmm rear, similar on the front, Lack of good quality dampers for this platform, I have seen pro-flex fitted to coupe rally cars. I have AST fronts are simple McPherson as you know not too hard to spec. Rear suspension is the issue, non adjustable trailing arms are very heavy and a pain for a track car with toe in and no neg camber. I had mine re-machined for negative camber but its a fairly big job, If you can weld I'd strongly advise taking the rear suspension and turrets from an Alfa 156 plus the fuel tank - not straight swap but not too difficult for someone with previous experience. I run -4 degrees fron -3ish rear camber. Castor is slightly increased on the front but I plan to go more as understeer is a big issue. PM if you are back on here sometime.
 
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