Hi looks like thats the end of my bros bravo.

I can't beleive the amount of parts and not got anywhere,cars been diagnosed and the guy says theres nothing else that can be done.

The car can't hold an idle and just dies most things that can be thought of have been done and changed including the ecu and it feels a waste of money throwing for no solution.

What engine? It could be something as simple as split cables, we had a bottomless money pit like that before but we didnt give up till we solved it. Then i wrote it off after an arguement with a combine

If all else fails a Bravo is a good start to a realy good track car

Hi it's a 1998 1.6 sx bravo. If you've any ideas please do let me know.

Thanx

Its probably something really simple. Explain what happens in detail, and if the same happens from a cold start. Also list What test have been done and what parts have been changed.

I didnt think the replacement ECU would help

Right heres a list of whats been done.

New alternator and belt
Cranksensor
Idle air valve
Temperature sensor
Throttle postion sensor
Ecu
Map sensor
Coil pack
Spark plugs and leads
Multiple relay

Its like imagine marty in back to the future when he lines the car up and he's ready to go for it the car dies.

Right heres what happens with the car.Start the car up from cold and the revs go up to just over 1000rpm gradually dropping to about 800rpm after about five minutes and the car is warming up.Keep the car running then thats when it starts to kick in say ten or so minutes and the cars getting hotter and thats when the car just wants to give up the ghost,it struggles even more with the idling and then boom the car just dies.Start the car up and sometime it will run but most times the revs go up to 1000rpm and then instantly dies again and then its the same again with the car not being able to be started properly again until the engine is cold.

The car had diagnostics done on it and the guy found it was running on 3 cylinders.So the injector was replaced and he thought thats what was causing it.

The car was took for a drive and then the cutting out kicked back in again.He spent time on the car but it's not made one bit of difference.

No codes showed up on the diagnostics and he said he's never came across anything like this and said no more can be done.

Surely if a car has a problem it must lie somewhere?

injectors are really common to go on the 1.6

edit. ah already replaced but not in the list. maybe he changed the wrong one?

dave said:

injectors are really common to go on the 1.6

edit. ah already replaced but not in the list. maybe he changed the wrong one?

Click to expand...

Hi dave i was shown the before and after graphs on the laptop.The faulty one was a spike on the graph then it was the same as the other working injectors afterwards on the graph.

On a car that old the wires might be corroded and only getting a poor signal. A similar problem happend with my BMW and yes it was corroded wires going to the ecu that was the problem. That was 4 years ago and the car has never looked back since

Are they all new or scrapyard parts? If you had not alread said cranksensor I would have suggested changing it. Well check the crank sensor gapping is right;



I will have a proper think when I get time but just of the top of my head;

Have you cleaned all the earth points, battery terminals, and tried another battery?

You can do a resistance test on the injectors to double check them.


MB is right about corroded wires its a definate possibility, I made the effort to clean ever connector I could on both my Bravos.

Maybe try another mechanic. Its not really beyond hope unless it fails a compression test

might be a daft question here but could the timing belt have slipped a tooth?

Oh yeah and when it cuts out does the ECU error light stay on untill you restart?

Adrian Bravo said:

Oh yeah and when it cuts out does the ECU error light stay on untill you restart?

Click to expand...

No i'm sure it don't.The parts are all new,yes to trying new battery,cleaning battery terminals and earth points.I checked the voltage of battery and it was something like 12.7 and 14.4 with engine running.

The guy said the resistance of the other injectors was fine.

I'll double check the cranksensor gap,and yes mb's right it could be the wiring.

Will i be able to check the wiring using a multimeter?
Also has the battery got to be disconnected to test the wires,and what should i be looking for like values and voltage.

One of the pins on the temperature sensor plug showed 5v with ignition on is that normal voltage?

Sorry for all the questions,i just like to exhaust every avenue.I wish the car could be running again,its a great car when its running.Please keep firing ideas at me everyone your knowledge is invaluable and greatly apreciated.

Doe's this car have a clutch switch?

Try to clean big black connector just behind the battery (wiring for FUSEbox). It solved my endless idle saga.
Check if engine is in correct phase (cambelt position). Water in fuel tank of fuel filter can also cause cutting off. Your ECU should be OK if no faults are diagnosed.

thats a big list of stuff thats been thrown at this problem !

what about the simple things like air leaks or vacuum leaks. have you checked the lambda ?. this should be kicking in when the engine has fully warmed up. ECU diagnostics may not be much help in a case like this.. if a mechanic totally relies on it and comes out with things like "computer says no" then it may be time for another mechanic..

I don't want to speak to soon but the car is running again woohoo.Adrian i'm glad you told me to check the gap on the crankshaft sensor as i'm sure that's what was causing it.

The sensor was outside the gap range,so my bro moved it closer and bang it started first turn of the key.

My heart was in my mouth thinking it was gonna cut out but it ran for 15 mins and did'nt cut out then it was took for a spin and also did'nt cut out at all.

I gave the earth strap that goes from the battery negative to the gearbox a sand because it was green and corroded and i managed to get it back to a nice shiny copper.

Fingers crossed the bravo lives on.

Can i say a big thanks to all of you for your help and input it's very much appreciated.

m20b25,Adrian Bravo,dave,donny lad,fiat37,stylers

Thats a good result, I am glad we could help

And at least with all those other parts replaced you should have very few part failures for a while.