Hi, How easy is it to change the head gasket on a 1.2 Bravo, is there anything I should look out for or any special tools needed.
Or can anyone give me a breif run down on how to.
Thanks
kevin

doing the head is easy its just the timing i hated, you dont put cylinder 1 to top dead centre, instead you have to set all the pistons up level in the middle, but then you have to work out weather cylinder one's piston is on its up stroke or down stroke, to do the timing properly you will need some timing tools for the head to keep the cams in place, i just used big bolts they did the trick, i would purchase a haynes manual if you dont already have one, was a real big help for me

Thanks ilsonemo for the reply, did you have any trouble lifting off the extentions as regards the hydraulic tappets falling out. Or did they stay in place. Just a bit worried about that bit. I have purchased a haynes manual and that bit sounds a bit tricky.

Thanks
kevin

Hi. I have done this job - quite a few times! The hydraulic lifters will fall out, maybe not all of them but certainly some. When you unbolt the head extension it will lift up, especially on the cylinders which have valves that are open. I used some sturdy but thin cardboard made two pieces about 1inch thick but the width of the head and slid them under the front and rear of the extension. You can feel for the locating dowels and cut these out of the cardboard to make it easier. It's not difficult. As far as the timing goes, you can buy the special tools but I unscrewed the front camlock cover, rotated the crank until the cutout in the crank was exactly infront of the entrance hole (also you can use a 10mm allen key because when the locating notch comes round it will slide into it nicely) then use the tipex method and paint on the crankshaft cog and case. Having said that I also made two lengths of dowel exactly the same length and made them fit the sparkplug holes. This worked well as well with the 10mm allen key in the top cam. With the allen key you can see it being effected when the cam moves, and you want it at 90degress to the front plug face. Have a play before you take off the belt and all will become clear. You might want to change the water pump well your in there as its driven by the belt, and if the car overheated on head failure it might be knackered anyway. Only £30.

Hi, maximoke
Thanks for the reply, it will be most helpful.
Are you saying that to slide two pieces of card underneath the head extension to stop the hydraulic tappets falling out. And if so did you use same method to put it back.
Thanks
kevin

Hi, Yes. I actually used the Cardboard that the head gasket kit came on it was thin enough but strong enough. I think the haynes manual has a picture or dimensions for the parts, although it says use metal strips. If possible and anybody else available get help lifting it off one at one end of both strips and someone else at the other end. Just makes it a bit easier. Otherwise spread your hands to the longest stretch you can if you know what I mean. Cheers. Also make sure you account for all 10 bolts, cos when you tip it upside down (to stop any coming out whilst on bench) some of the bolts on my job stayed in and were a bit of a pain to get out. Had fallen at an angle. I used long nosed pliers to get them out and then also replace them when it all went back together.

Head gasket is relatively simple, just a few things to watch out for:

• The head bolts take an M9 ribe head. Use new bolts when assembling
• The lifters will fall out of the extention, a carefully cut heatsheild or cardboard will keep them in place (copy the haynes manual for the exact dimentions)
• Change the water pump when the engines at this stage
• Timing can be a curse so before you put the extention back on fit the crank pulley correct to its notch and rotate till the gap for the sensor faces the back of the engine in line with the sump, from here you can adjust it when the extention is back on. Failure to do so will result in the engine firing thru the intake :doh:

Any problems let us know!!