the clutch has gone, making lots of noise and hard to get gears e.t.c so ive bought a new clutch and want to fit it myself, but ive never changed a clutch or removed a gearbox before.
ive searched for a guide how to do it on here but cant find one. can anyone give me a quick guide on what to do to change it and what i need to disconnect/undo. do driveshafts have to be popped out, meaning i have to undo hubnuts or can i drop a strut down ? can i do it without loosing my gearbox oil? where are the refil and max level holes? will i loose brake fluid and have to bleed the clutch ? any special tools needed? i have the basic's like a socket and spanner set and torque wrench.
all tips and advice welcome

you don't need to pop the shafts out totally, nor do you need to drain the gearbox oil. If you remove the strut to hub carrier bolts you should be able to swing the stut far enough out to pull the shaft out of the diff cup. just make sure you bag the exposed end of the cv joint to protect it from dirt.

clutch slave will need disconnected and yeah it'll need bleeding.

I'm afraid I'll have to disagree about taking the shafts out. I find it much easier to take the shafts out of the gearbox than split them. Yes you have to drain the gearbox oil but that's dead simple, 8mm allen key needed, the plug is at the bottom at the back of the gearbox. Drain into old oil container with hole cut in it, save and re-use. You don't need to bleed the hydraulics unless the slave cylinder has come adrift. Just undo the two bolts holding it to the gearbox and tie out of the way

i've had trouble with the retaining clips on the diff cups not doing their job, so prefer not to pull the diff cups out unless needed.

wouldn't you need to pull the strut/hub carrier bolts or hub nut to be able to get the shafts out the box anyway?

Normally undo the passenger side hub nut only. Undo and remove bottom pinch bolt on suspension and lever down with very long bar. Sometimes need hammer assistance. It's true about the retaining clips on the shafts, but if you use a chisel to release them a fraction, then reposition the chisel and give a really hard whack they normally pop right out. I find the driveshaft cups get in the way when handling the gearbox, with them removed it's pretty easy.

I would deffinentally drain the box and for the cost of it you may aswell put new oil in it

Cant understand why the slave would need bleeding either you dont need to disconect the slave off the hydraulics

smokeymacpot said:

the clutch has gone, making lots of noise and hard to get gears e.t.c so ive bought a new clutch and want to fit it myself, but ive never changed a clutch or removed a gearbox before.
ive searched for a guide how to do it on here but cant find one. can anyone give me a quick guide on what to do to change it and what i need to disconnect/undo. do driveshafts have to be popped out, meaning i have to undo hubnuts or can i drop a strut down ? can i do it without loosing my gearbox oil? where are the refil and max level holes? will i loose brake fluid and have to bleed the clutch ? any special tools needed? i have the basic's like a socket and spanner set and torque wrench.
all tips and advice welcome

Click to expand...

Ive done loads of these, relatively simple

You need a basic ratchet set, a lend of a 3/4 t-bar/adapter/32mm socket for the hub nut, hammer, clutch centering tool, blue loctite treadlock, instant gasket for the gearbox top, torx set for the clutch (T6 bit if i remember) and 2 decent trolley jacks.

Personally i dont drain the oil from the box but it is recomended

Shafts out is a must or its an unholy mess to put back in as a whole. Yes ive tried it this way too un steak the nut then use a 32mm socket to loosen the nut while the car is on the ground. Jack the car, disconnect the front strut assembly at the hub, turn wheel in desired direction then hammer the cv end of the shaft out. Dont hammer them too hard or the ends will become flared and youll have to dress them down with a small grinder. Break the clips at the couplings as youll have to use new ones anyway and out they pop. Be careful of grease dripping.
Disconnect the battery then remove it and the tray.
Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder (try to keep it compressed) and tie out of the way.
Undo the earth cable (held in with a 13mm nut) and undo the 3 13mm bolts that hold the linkage in place at the back near the starter. Now undo the 5 bolts at the top of the box. Disconnect the plug at the end and carefully pry it up. Be carefull, this is a fiddly part.
Starter has to come out.
If you have a fly by wire 1.2 (it has the cat at the front) take the cat off. Undo the 2 nuts under the car that holds it to the flex section, then the supporting bracket. Then take the fan out (a bit fiddly) tilt then slide down to bottom of the car kinda diagonally. Heatshield (bolts can ring with heat and age) then disconnect the 2 plugs for oxygen sensors. 9 12mm hold the cat in place.
The Engine/Gearbox must now be supported on a jack. Undo the bolts at the rear mount (2x 13mm bolts) and take off the mount (4x 18mm bolts, quite awkward and usually very tight but i had to use a spanner) Undo the bolts at the front mount (3x 13mm bolts) then take off the mounting (3x 15mm bolts).
Straight foreward to take the box off, just 5 bolts and one nut to take off (3x 19mm bolts with brackets around them, 1x 19mm nut at the back near the starter acting as a guide bolt and 2 bolts at the bottom of the box, 15mm and 17mm heads) Box can be fiddly to remove from bay, tilt down, move engine back slightly and slide box down, careful not to tangle with the subframe.
Inspect clutch, make sure you have the same one, then loosen each bolt by a quarter turn going round bolt by bolt.
Withdraw clutch. Viola

Sorry to quote haynes manuals but "Installation is reverse of removal" However.....
Make sure the clutch is centred correctly before the box goes on or you could damage the centre of the friction plate.
ALWAYS use a new release bearing. Sometimes these arnt supplied with the kit, check and ask for one if necessary.
Use blue treadlock on bolts to prevent seizure.
Clean surface of gearbox top to prepare for the instant gasket.
The part where the linkage goes at the top of the box caused me problems the first few times. Check that the little lever inside is sitting correctly square in the middle between the selector movers and moves with them as you move it by hand and adjust if necessary and roughly bolt on the linkage to test it before you apply the instant gasket (see pic below of what im on about) otherwise youll put it back together fully and be severely cheesed off that have a wonky gearstick inside that wont go into 1,2 or reverse...
Use lots of cv joint grease in the boots before re-installation, MRM-2 from a Fiat garage
Inspect the clutch slave cylinder for signs of cracking in the boot and when mounted back onto gearbox top test it and bleed it if necessary (takes brake fluid from the brake fluid resivoir and the bleed nipple is a 7mm nut).
Check connections, bolts and make sure your satisfied with the work before you start the car
Test drive

If i have missed anything let me know.

Hope this helps!

i dont think i have a socket big enough for the hubnut, so i can undo the shocker mounting and have enough space for me to pop that shaft out and the other will come off as i move the box out of the way. i have to do this right? as the gearbox wont move far enough away? i defo loose oil if lever shafts from the gbox?
i dont have a clutch alignment tool! can i do without ?
i hope i have a t6 bit

oh wait i get you, i can undo cv boots and i only need a new cable tie and maybe some grease, is it likely to run everywhere or is it thick grease?

Why would you take the top off the gearbox? Just pop of the conectors and undo the cable bracket. Taking off the selector mechanism is asking for problems if you're unfamiliar.

flying clutchman said:

Why would you take the top off the gearbox? Just pop of the conectors and undo the cable bracket. Taking off the selector mechanism is asking for problems if you're unfamiliar.

Click to expand...

Yup, agreed, but, by strange coincidence that picture has given me an idea.

How many cables on a brava for gear changing?

Cheers

SPD

I might know what your thinking rallycinq man Its all boden on the 1.2 2x boden cables, nothing else. I can get diagram if you need one

fiat_-_bravo said:

Cant understand why the slave would need bleeding either you dont need to disconect the slave off the hydraulics

Click to expand...

been a while since i worked on brava/o and the last job was a complete box and engine change - but if you are taking the box out, and the slave is on the box, i can't see how you can NOT disconnect it. Or do you just unbolt it from the box and let it dangle off the hydraulics?

smokeymacpot said:

i dont think i have a socket big enough for the hubnut, so i can undo the shocker mounting and have enough space for me to pop that shaft out and the other will come off as i move the box out of the way. i have to do this right? as the gearbox wont move far enough away? i defo loose oil if lever shafts from the gbox?
i dont have a clutch alignment tool! can i do without ?
i hope i have a t6 bit

oh wait i get you, i can undo cv boots and i only need a new cable tie and maybe some grease, is it likely to run everywhere or is it thick grease?

Click to expand...

it's thick grease.

see here for more info re the way i'd do it;

https://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecen...utch-cinquecento-sporting-1-1-ohc-engine.html

yes it's a bit different, but the box is the same

just like a haynes manual arc

is it definately a T6 star bit for the clutch bolts? i have to make sure i have one.

Adrian Bravo said:

I might know what your thinking rallycinq man Its all boden on the 1.2 2x boden cables, nothing else. I can get diagram if you need one

Click to expand...

It did look like a roller at first, but this screen has it a bit clearer.

Damn.

Cheers

SPD

smokeymacpot said:

i dont think i have a socket big enough for the hubnut, so i can undo the shocker mounting and have enough space for me to pop that shaft out and the other will come off as i move the box out of the way. i have to do this right? as the gearbox wont move far enough away? i defo loose oil if lever shafts from the gbox?
i dont have a clutch alignment tool! can i do without ?
i hope i have a t6 bit

oh wait i get you, i can undo cv boots and i only need a new cable tie and maybe some grease, is it likely to run everywhere or is it thick grease?

Click to expand...

Well years ago my dad used a 32mm spanner and sledge to take these nuts off!! See if you can get a lend of this socket or you can do it the old fashioned way

Yes, the 2 bolts and nuts at the bottom at the hub, remove these. Beware these can be tight, use some lubricating oil. Remove the brake pipe from where it sits into on the shock and move the hub assembly out of the way. Dont take it out from the ball joint, there is enough room to work here. Same for both sides (left side is usually easier to work with)

Clutch allignment can be done just by looking it and aligning it by eyesight and feel, but very few people do it that way as it requires alot of concentration. A centering tool is available in halfords, i dont know how much tho but it would be cheap enough

Ive never lost gearbox oil on a routine change except for the time the diff exploded on the motorway and blew holes in the casing. Very very messy...

I use a 3/8 ratchet for the clutch, the trick is not to overtighten. I once rang a stud in the flywheel with a half inch ratchet. Lesson learned... Theres a sticky on this forum at the top on clutch torque figures, its worth a look.

flying clutchman said:

Why would you take the top off the gearbox? Just pop of the conectors and undo the cable bracket. Taking off the selector mechanism is asking for problems if you're unfamiliar.

Click to expand...

whoops I should have been clear on that, take it off and tie to one side not remove the linkage assembly and withdraw it from the car like in my pic!! or that would be a nightmare to get back on...

As regards the 32mm socket, these only come in 3/4 drive, so you need a 3/4 drive t- bar as well. You might find it better to hire a 3/4 drive socket set for a day. On the other hand you might think it better to pay £200 or so and get the job done for you!

i made a start, but i got stuck on a few things and gave up. i only found 2 bolts on the starter and its impossible for me to see or feel another bolt at the back of it. is there another? as it didnt seem to want to come out. i couldnt undo the 19mm bolts, i need a 19mm on a breaker bar. trust them to use the one size i havent got
i borrowed a torx 6 (star), you said T6, but that cant be right, T6 is tiny and usually found on electronic items.
the clips on the inner cv boots, look like they might be use once items ?? can i use a plastic cable tie if i cant reuse them?
all in all this car is an utter pig to get at things, no space ANYWHERE. why cant they be like vauxhall and let you change a clutch by removing a metal plate and not have to remove the gearbox

oh i also found a small ball bearing ontop of the gearbox sat in the oil and dirt, has that come from inside the slave cyclinder? the rod sits fine without it.

smokeymacpot said:

i borrowed a torx 6 (star), you said T6, but that cant be right, T6 is tiny and usually found on electronic items.

Click to expand...

Oops thats old age for ya :bang: I also build Nokias as a hobby and a T6 is what I use for some of them.... You need a T40 for the clutch, a T30 will decieve you and may seem to fit but its way too small. However a 6/7 hex will also fit if the torx bolt is damaged (thats what I ment to say originally!)

smokeymacpot said:

i made a start, but i got stuck on a few things and gave up. i only found 2 bolts on the starter and its impossible for me to see or feel another bolt at the back of it. is there another? as it didnt seem to want to come out. i couldnt undo the 19mm bolts, i need a 19mm on a breaker bar. trust them to use the one size i havent got

Click to expand...

Theres a 3rd bolt but its at the front. Also a 13mm head. The idea is it acts as a guide when putting it back. As for the 2 bolts, I use an impact 19 with breaker bar and if its too tight get a hallow bar that will slide over the handle of the bar and make sure the sockets on the head fully. Works every time

smokeymacpot said:

the clips on the inner cv boots, look like they might be use once items ?? can i use a plastic cable tie if i cant reuse them?

Click to expand...

Yes they are once only clips, a strong cable tie works fine when putting it back on. Make sure the boots clean first then affix....

smokeymacpot said:

all in all this car is an utter pig to get at things, no space ANYWHERE. why cant they be like vauxhall and let you change a clutch by removing a metal plate and not have to remove the gearbox

oh i also found a small ball bearing ontop of the gearbox sat in the oil and dirt, has that come from inside the slave cyclinder? the rod sits fine without it.

Click to expand...

Space can be hard to find at times like removing the fan is awkward however I would regard these cars as easy to work on (altho i have been working on these cars since 2004 when I was 14) I also have a TD100 Bravo van now thats tightly packed in. And as for a HGT....
Ball bearing? Could you get a pic of it? It dosent sound like anything major but just to be sure its nothing major...
If the boot on the slave cylinder is iffy, when you take off the cylinder the head will fall off, however it is kinda mushroom shaped with the rubber round it not ball bearing...

Let us know how youre getting on!