Hi!

Has anyone got any later Fiat Auto Supplements covering Power Steering Pump Removal on the 1910 TD100 Engine for the Brava/Marea Manuals?

All I can find is a blank page with "Information on this procedure has not been available at the time of printing," and I haven't got it in my binders or CDs anywhere!!!

I'm trying to see if I can replace my alternator from above, and it looks like I could do it if I removed the plate underneath the injector-pump, which I've already removed, followed by the power-steering pump.

I'd rather not have to lie under the car to dismantle the suspension wishbones, driveshafts, etc., etc., if I can avoid it because of the dangers, not to mention the distinct possibility if I start dismantling all that bloody lot the thing won't drive straight again!!!

Chris Williams

best to do it from underneath I would think..

Hi!

I've looked through all 263 pages of this forum and can't find any posts anywhere that explain exactly what I need to dismantle and in what order to remove the PAS pump and alternator on my diesel Brava and the weather's drawing in so I really need to get the underneath nasties done soon!!!

If someone **has** done it please could they post a summary for me of how to go about it please? I have to work on a communal car park during the weekday when most of the other wassocks are at work and (hopefully) there's room by the driver's side to work - weekends are hopeless because all the spaces either side of my car are taken!!!

I have a torque wrench, do I need a special socket for the wheel hub-nut (I have a new nut)? I tried removing that big bolt up the bottom front engine mount to drop the engine but it all jams on the suspension before I've got anywhere near enough room to take the things out!!!

As I've said earlier all the official, Haynes and Porter manuals are totally useless, not one of 'em covers the procedure, and it isn't in the Marea manuals either!!! I haven't access to lifting tackle to hoist all the engine out by the way!!!

Really sorry to be a pain in the proverbial, I've never come across any car repair job where like this where there seems to be a total lack of published information anywhere - not even in Car Mechanics!!!

Chris Williams

the lack of info is probably due to the fact there were relatively few diesels encountered. you'll probably waste more time looking for the procedure than removing the stuff. Its a pig of a job, but what major surgery on any modern car isn't ?. usually it involves lying on the ground if you've no lift or pit. just put down a sheet of plastic or a flattened out cardboard box or something to lie on, and jack it good and high on axle stands. don't worry about the tracking, you wont be disturbing the track rod end too much so it shouldn't be any different after. I think the driveshaft might have to come out of the way. for the hub nut I got a 3/4 32mm socket and tapered it on a lathe to let if fit into the hub all the way over the nut. you'll also need a breaker bar to loosen it. get someone to stand on the brakes while you stand on the breaker bar (while the car is not jacked up), or else borrow a compressor and impact gun.

what's wrong that the pump needs to come out ?

Hi!

The fault happened the day after my last M.O.T. back in February - the ign. light came on half-way home from work and the battery was flat by the time I got home!!

I don't think I've got a pas problem, it simply occurred to me that if I removed the pas pump out of the way first, it would give me access to unbolt and remove the alternator from above, thats all, as in any event I can't reach the two electrical terminals from underneath - I've tried loads of times and can barely feel them!!!

I think you can get a special hub-nut remover socket, unfortunately I live seven floors up in flats so I can't run mains outside for power tools and a petrol compressor'd cause too many complaints!!!


Chris Williams

probably worn alt brushes, but first check that the two wires are attached to the alternator and all the connections at the starter and battery are good. if ok there, start sourcing a replacement or reconditioned/exchange alternator so you can get the whole lot back together quickly. I suppose its possible to buy a socket but I found it easier to taper one down. its actually a 36mm socket I think.

Hi!

I've got a brand new exchange alternator, new battery, tools to repair the wiring, Uniscan to reset the airbag and all sorts of oddments I think I might need - except decent instructions!!! Thanks for the tip about the hub nut socket - I'll mosey in my local factor's tomorrow for one!!!

Chris Williams