Hi all, just had the engine in the JTD100 2001 replaced as it had had numerous seizures and valves were bent etc etc

Anyway, mechanic has put another JTD100 2001 in the bay which had 48k on (with a 3 month warranty).

Problem is the car fires once and doesnt keep running. It will do this every time you turn the key but wont keep running.

Mechanic had his friend out from fiat who plugged in a diagnostic machine and that said that the top dead centre pick up was faulty so the mechanic replaced it with the one off my old engine (btw 75K). Still no luck. Car turns but only fires once.

The friend from fiat then told the mechanic to check the valve timing again as if they are 1 tooth out they wont start. I have faith in the mechanic so i dont think its that and he says it shouldnt be that because it was spot on!....he's going to check anyway.

Anyway, has anyone had anything like this happen before? i really need to know what this niggle is because ive been without the bravo for 3 months and want her back before christmas!!

All help is seriously appreciated guys!

Stu

i would want to see the fuel rail pressure while this is happening. a common rail on the JTD can have a pressure variator of 150-1350bar, if it drops below 120bar then the ecu prevents fuel injection. i wonder if that is your problem and the pressure is dropping (due to a faulty pump or blocked fuel filter or a faulty pressure regulator for example). alternatively the problem may be that the engine is not getting the signals it needs to control the fueling, such as the engine speed (from the crankshaft position sensor, or as you descrbied it the top dead centre pick up) or because the coolant temp sensor is faulty.

Did you swap the stop solenoid from the old motor to the new one as they are coded with the key had the same problem when i changed my engine.

I will get him to check, i'm very interested in this stop solenoid?! where abouts is it located?

The immobiliser key light is going off as normal btw

Thanks for the replies guys

Stu

If yours is like mine then the stop solenoid is very well hidden and difficult to get to the only way of taking it off complete with the code box is by actually removing the injector pump



If you look in the picture i have circled what needs to be removed and the location of the code box.

SOrry the top right hand box is a metal plate that covers the stop solenoid,
the bottom left hand box is the code box that sits under the pump impossible to remove without taking out the pump due to the shape of the injector pump mounting bracket and also the lack of space in the engine bay.

Thanks soo much for this, i have spoken to him and hes going to swap them. Did you have exactly the same trouble?

I notice the picture is for a TD100 diesel, is that any different to the JTD 100?

Many thanks again

Stu

Yeah the picture is for the TD100 i dont think there is much of a difference but if you click on the link there are manuals for all the bravos even the JTD's with pictures try it,

http://www.babarmalik.com/ledmods.htm

Well my mech is of till 27th now so can ask any more q's. Told him about the stop solenoid but im not sure if he's had time to change it. Also will he neeed the red key as i still have it and was wondering if there was any implications after the engine switch!

Thanks

Stu

bandido41, these engines are different - JTD's are totally ECU controlled and immobilised. Stu, You wont need the red key because as you have said code light is going out - so immo and ECU are happy. there is something else wrong here - are you (or mechanic) sure the injectors have been connected up correctly for example ? - this could cause the symptoms you describe. Like jug said, I would get the examiner and double check everything - and see what fuel pressures are being generated on cranking and make sure there are no hard fault codes. then get a scope or noid lights on the injectors and see if they are actually being fired - if so then the ECU is probably happy and getting proper inputs.
Also, need to be precise about what it does when it fires - does it only fire once on a single cylinder - or does it actually run on all four but only for a second - hard to tell i know but listening carefully should tell you.

Owen.

oh right i was hoping that might have been the fix! Damn it.

Im not particularly good with cars mechanically but im going to go across on 27th and ill take a list of what i need to check.

I really need to get this sorted as i only have a 3 month warranty on the engine and the mechanic has taken so long to fit the block that that is nearly up.

So how do i check the fuel rail pressure? will it require a diagnostic machine?

If i have to move the car, due to mechanic negligence, where would you guys recommend?

Thanks

Stu

Hi all,
Ive been across today and i had a check for myself, hwta the car is doing is.....

Sometimes when you turn the key it ONLY turns, it DOES NOT FIRE.

Then...

Intermittently..

when you turn the key it FIRES, but only ONCE. Nothing more.


The battery then started to die on me.

I checked the fuel cut of switch which i think was ok and the mechanic siad he had checked the fuel feed and it was getting through fine.

He has also checked all the connections again and said that there would not be any inccorect connections as they simply dont fit if they are wrongly matched.

As stated, the immobiliser stuff is all ok as the CODE light IS GOING OUT PERFECTLY.

I couldnt check fuel rail pressures but the mechanic is going to have a look again this aft, im ringin him after 3pm today.

Does this throw any light on the situation?

All help much appreciated

Stu

Is there any sign of smoke or smell of diesel at the exhaust when turning it over ?. It sounds like no fuel pressure. you should be able to open a fitting on the fuel rail or injectors and see if theres any fuel coming out when cranking - this should show fuel pump is basically working. be very careful not to get body parts in the way of fuel spray !!!, observe from a distance only. the fact it fires at all means its most likely a fuel pressure problem - you need to check with diagnostics or a pressure gauge to be sure..

Spoke to mechanic today.

He has checked the injectors - plenty of fuel getting through at a high pressure ( i dont think he has the tools to check pressure tho)

He has also changed the crankshaft sensor but still nothing!

He is towing it to another garage tomo

Any more ideas people?

Many thanks, as always

Stu

if the fuel pump or timing belt has been removed prior to or during the engine change then i would check the pump timing.

he's checked it numerous times im told. This is really baffling me.

Thanks guys..any more?

well got the beast back today!!! wooo hooooo!!!!

Turns out it was the fuel pressure regulator? does that sound right, cant remember what he said exactly!!

Anyway the temp and fuel gauges are still going craxy when i start the car, is this the connection at the back of the dash?!

Anyway, im soo happy to be back motoring, it has been 3 months!

thanks for all your help guys

Stu

i do love it when my first suggestion is right

Hi

Sorry to butt in. I have a JTD 110 that keeps cutting out and then give it 10 minutes it will fire first time. Any chance that this is a similar problem?

feckin knew it would be the juice pressure

timg147, sounds more like a crank sensor problem. have you got diagnostics done ?

hi stylers

thanks for you reply, not got any diagnostics done so far. But i was reading on here earlier and there were a few posts that also sounded like my problem and pointed to the crank sensor. So have ordered one on the off chance so i will try to fit this weekend