can you somehow make the gasket yourself? no way Im waiting another 2weeks till it gets here and pay another 20quid just for a piece of paper
btw The new iac valve fit on pretty straight and snug even without the gasket,tested even with carb cleaner didnt seem to leak anywhere.

If the original gasket is made of paper, and if you have the old gasket, it isn't to difficult to make a new one.
Just use new gasketpaper from a carparts shop.

Or you can just use a sealant, like a loctite or similar: http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/122542?$pd_zoom$

Idling problems are usually caused by one or more of the following:
-Lean/rich mixture
-Broken idle valve
-Missing or incorrect RPM signal
(-Possibly a false temperature signal, but most likely not)

Most typical causes or lean mixture are leaks in the intake after the mass flow sensor (MAF), faulty MAF, low fuel pressure or faulty lambda sensor. Since your car is running ok on high rpm, most likely the fuel pressure is not the problem.

Remove and check your intake rubber one more time for leaks. The one between the MAF and idle valve. If you have a plastic intake manifold, check for cracks.
You might want to take it to a tester - if the engine light is on, there will be an error code indicating the faulty component, if the problem is component based. If not, then it's most likely an intake leak.

I can really recommend these combined with a FiatEcuScan software.
They cost less than a single diagnose in a workshop, and will help a lot.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/3-Pin-Adapte...38?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item234de7f37a
+
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AutoDia-K410...26?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item25a06341d2

Just today my 95 B has developed a spookily similar problem, been stored for a few months, battery had died and I tried to jump but all I got was alarm going crazy. So today I recharged battery and hey it started and ran for a while quite happily, as soon as I moved it and introduced throttle it became very erratic , seemed to be ' hunting' up and down and the downs produced either a stall or near stall, my car despite its age has only 36k on, feels as if it would drive but I'm nervy it's going to die and with the recent battery issues it's not a good combo ! Btw the fuel was low and I only put in a few litres from a can , is this the prob and will it clear ? If not does the dreaded Variator cause these issues ? Would appreciate any help out there , thanks

I have not heard a variator cause these issues.

If the car idles ok, but stalls when you try to rev it, I would suspect an air leak in the intake rubber hose. When the engine accelerates, it moves a bit and bends the intake hose, causing any cracks to open up and suck air. whereas if the crack is small, it won't cause a leak during idle or steady revs.

Another problem might be the battery. If it's totally dead and won't take charge it might affect the injection. I understand that you were able to start the car with the battery after starting, so probably not the battery, but you might want to run the car with all other electrical devices turned off - lights, fan, radio, seat heaters etc. and see if it makes any difference.

Any problem with any of the sensors would most likely light up the injection light, so I would look for the trouble elsewhere if the injection light works alright (during startup) but is not lit.

One more thing - where did you store the car? Any chance the mice might have chewed the wiring?

EDIT: A new rubber hose may be difficult to find, but if you wash it first it can be easily fixed with Sikaflex or similar rubber glue.

hmm I have checked for cracks without taking the whole hose off because of the dreaded fastening clips which are impossible to put back without proper tool and there really doesnt seems to be any..

Think its good idea just to get electric tape and tape all around the hose to see if it changes anything and detect the leak in that way if there is any?

If you want to test it without taking the hose off, you could put some piece of a plastic bag around the hose and then use duct tape to seal it.
This way you can easily remove it later.

The cracks may be underneath the pipe in the bottom corner of the bellow, so it can be difficult to see without removing. The original clamp is useless, buy a pair of hose clamps http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/worm-hose-clamp-65240-2514041.jpg before disassembly, they cost a few € but make things a lot easier.

Thanks guys going to have it looked at on Tuesday , the car is stored in a storage warehouse so guess mice may be present ?!

I had the same problem with my Alfa 145 twinspark engine. Is the same engine but with 2 sparkplugs per cylinder. You, my friend, have the lambda sensor defected. Change it with NTK sensor and problem will go.

wouldnt it have problems also when driving if it were lambda?
either way not throwing any more parts against it ,to see what sticks until the diagnostic cable arrives for it

Does it still run erratically at idle if you increase the revs very slightly on the throttle, or if you place some load on the alternator (eg by turning on the a/c, if you have it, or the main beam)? I had a fault like this many years ago on a Renault Espace (we called it the Bastard Renault from Hell in my family) which had a worn idle valve which wouldn't stay in a constant position at idle speed. As it wobbled open and closed, the revs got more and more erratic as the diagnostic electronics tried to correct the fault, to the extent that it could even stall itself, but as soon as the revs rose above the critical point, it magically smoothed out and ran sweetly (well, as sweetly as the Douvrin engine ever did). I never did fix it - that was one of many niggling faults it had. I px'd it to a dealer, and made damned sure the a/c was switched on when he tested it

Not sure if this helps, but...

Mine had a tendancy to almost stall when slowing for junctions and a slight hesitancy on acceleration. Not a major hiccup, just a slight running weak feel. The idle could occasionally dip as well.

Had the injectors refurbished, slight improvement.
Changed the fuel filter, slight improvement.
Changed the fuel pump today - bingo!

Idles better, no weak running and although it still had loads of power it probably has about 10% more now

HP said:

Changed the fuel pump today - bingo!

Click to expand...

Hi Pete.
What fuel pump did you fit, is it std or performance type.
Dave

The fuel pump can be a answer for Itaa, but i would really go for the intake problem.
It the lambda sensor was faulty, the car would run in degraded mode, and will drive ok with no stall or idle problem, but with a very high fuel consumption.

It can be a leak, but i really think it's something with the flowmeter.
I had a similar problem, and i disassembled the intake system, clean the flowmeter sensor with brake cleaner, it was better, and then check for connection of the sensor itself, cables and outlet. i had little bit of oxydation and a loose connection of the flowmeter 3 pin outlet, wich was the real problem.

Hope it helps.

Dave-M said:

Hi Pete.
What fuel pump did you fit, is it std or performance type.
Dave

Click to expand...

Went for a Magneti Marelli standard spec replacement. Changed the whole unit including level transmitter rather than faff on - I had seen just the pump element itself available.

Got the cable today and all I can just say is *** U FIAT , can't even make a proper software which works.. let alone can't even include standard obd2 which from that year was mandatory and other manufacturers had it already way before!

Tried installing it on windows 7- Can't connect to ecu says in the FiatEcuScan soft
Anyone knows what the hell is going on why It isnt able to connect?
btw Once I plug in the cable some FT232R USB UART thing appears in device manager-however says that it doesnt have drivers, and It doesnt auto installs drivers for it, tried manually installing driver for it-No success,it doesnt recognizes the driver files as correct ones..


Anyone maybe knows what could be the problem?

Tried installing it as well on XP , and I dont even get to the stage where it installs the Com Port...

Soooo frustrated since none of this software crap even works,tried searching in other forums for solution ..nothing..

Hi HP,
regarding the fuel pump and level transmitter; how accurate is the sender? Mine is quite poor and I am considering replacing it. Where did you source the pump and did it arrive with the gasket?
Cheers
Steve

itaa5x, I have used the EcuScan software on an Alfa 159 and it's brilliant, don't give up. The only kit I have managed to get working on my B so far is a very old Sykes Pickavant setup, which is awful in comparison.

Steve, the sender is reasonably accurate on mine but does wander a little at lower levels. I'm currently just over 1/4 tank and any right hand bend sees a drop and the warning light come on. The new one is the same as the old - all my Cinquecentos were the same - it's a Fiat thing!
I got my pump from eurocarcare: http://www.eurocarcare.co.uk/ - ask for Big Mick.
The gasket doesn't come with it and you will need to buy it separately.

Many thanks for the reply. My tank is half full when the low fuel light comes on. Perhaps I just need to 'bend' the float wire I little.
Cheers Steve