Hi all, please help; If anyone knows how to adjust a Barchetta driver's window so that it closes tighter on the hood rubber I would be very grateful. It is too upright and needs to 'lean' inwards more. I have a horrible wind noise there, and we've had a lot of rain in South Africa recently, much of which is deposited on my lap. This is socially very difficult.

I have the same issue!! :-( but it isn't quite as bad as yours with the rain coming into your lap!!

Any assistance for both of us would be appreciated!!

Here is the window adjustment;

A. Horizontal plane
B. Height of the window
C. Angle of the window mechanism

I'd suggest the mechanism might have broken, they are prone to it. See:

https://www.fiatforum.com/barchetta/218979-working-window.html

and if that with bolts don't work. you can put some distance between rail and door body. second picture shows bird's perspective of rails and doors, you just add some distance that will push rails more inside and as result window will be more tight to seals.

ARGGH - Anyone fancy doing it for me??

once you figure out how it all works its pretty easy mate!

don't tighten them up too much as it can put stress on the glass causing it to shatter.......

Speaking from experience?

Take it easy when you try and remove the inside door handle surround while taking the door card off. DON'T use a screwdriver or anything like that on the plastic!

indeed dont scratch your paintwork, I ve found that the handle of a metal fork works fine....

and yes.. when removing inside door handle, it's easier to remove it when doors are locked. open door, push the shutter on lateral side and lock the doors. you cant lock doors if they are open, so you have to push that thing so barch will "think" that doors are closed and will allow to lock.

well, it's tricky to remove that door handle... it will not go by easy.

R30GUE said:

don't tighten them up too much as it can put stress on the glass causing it to shatter.......

Click to expand...

And on our 'B' the windows get sucked outwards so you neen the minimum window/seal contact pressure to also overcome the suction.

Set pressure etc. till you are happy then go for a fast drive, preferably with/as passenger so you can actually visibly see and hear and breaking of the window / seal contact.

Do all of this before refitting the inner door panel.

Don't fear the adjustment. I poked around in there myself and I know nothing about cars

Only problem is you can get sucked into trying to close every little gap and be a slave to adjustment. Tip top hood rubbers will make a difference as well.

too bad there are no aftermarket hood rubbers... only overpriced originals or lottery quality second hand.

The main hood rubbers are as you say expensive. Needless to say the original hood also has two stiched in rubbers down by the 'B' post.

I think I may be getting deeply involved with hood seals over soon. We have had a new window (different rake/profile), a new after market hood and their attempt at replacing the original Fiat stiched in hood seals, and as the hood replacement requires two of the original frame seals to be removed and refitted. Needless to say we have wind noise (incorrect window alignment), water ingress (rubber seal 2 to 3 interface..note 1=front seal, 2=middle real, 3=rear/'B' post window seal), and possible water ingress in original hood stiched in area.

I can tell you all one thing that is really annoying!

This cold and wet weather makes it impossible to play with/diagnose/adjust/ ...repeat many times ..... the hood, plastic window and seals.

What the 'B' needs is an overlap external film/shield and windows that up/down by 2cm when the doors open an close.

s130 said:

What the 'B' needs is an overlap external film/shield and windows that up/down by 2cm when the doors open an close.

Click to expand...

that's what will try to create now when installing remote locking. when press unlock then windows will go down, and when lock then windows will go up. and hardtop can use those side wind/water block parts...



(tonight i had a dream somebody stole my headlights, uffff)

When 'er indoors' had her Mini Cooper, it had this system and generally it worked well. On the Mini, the glass slid up into a recess and I wondered what would happen if you had a flat battery as it wouldnt be possible to open the door, bonnet etc. The problem with in cold weather when the glass froze to the seal. I was always concerned that the mechanism might break trying to drop the window.

On the Barchetta, the window glass pushes against the outside edge of the hardtop rubber and, not into it. As someone has already mentioned, at speed, the glass tends to be sucked away from the roof further, thus allowing water to get in.

Anyway, snowing hard now so I'm off to school in the Focus.

Drive safely.

Steve

Don't know what all this fuss is about.

A few drips of water...you should try driving a 2CV with a leaky roof, no window seals, rain coming in through the front flap just below the windscreen and the whole lot only running away when you remove the bungs in the floor.

And don't get me started on the ingress of exhaust fumes because the heater hoses have fallen off the heat exchangers and are now lying on the exhaust and OH MY GOD THE CAR'S ON FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes it did happen.:bang:

it's not few drips, but 2 cm of water under seats and wet sponge instead of seats. floor is designed to hold water, and easy remove it with dry sponge. but main problems are wet seats. i don't want to look like i **** myself every time when i get out of car.