Technical Electronic Ignition

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Technical Electronic Ignition

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Oct 5, 2010
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Has anyone replaced the distributor, or fitted a conversion kit, to upgrade to an electronic ignition? There seem to be a few products available for the fiat 126/500/600 to either replace the whole distributor or to convert the existing distributor. I've found a few kits for the 850 but not yet sure they'll fit my '74 850T.
 
Hi
I've been considering the same on our 900T (Connie) as part of the rebuild - I remember back in the 80's that you could get after market devices to do the job (Sparkright being one of the main ones).

I haven't got to it yet (engine still on the garage floor) but here are links to some possible contenders that I've found:
http://www.boyerbransden.com/IDunits.html
http://www.newtronic.co.uk

Hope this helps
 
Has anyone replaced the distributor, or fitted a conversion kit, to upgrade to an electronic ignition? There seem to be a few products available for the fiat 126/500/600 to either replace the whole distributor or to convert the existing distributor. I've found a few kits for the 850 but not yet sure they'll fit my '74 850T.
I fitted a Lumenition Magnetronic Ignition Kit to the original Marelli distributor on my 850t (it does have an 850 coupe engine fitted though) a couple of years ago. Fit and forget, dead easy to install, never had any problems with it, wholly recommend (I got mine from Demon Tweeks).
 
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I fitted a Lumenition Magnetronic Ignition Kit to the original Marelli distributor on my 850t (it does have an 850 coupe engine fitted though) a couple of years ago. Fit and forget, dead easy to install, never had any problems with it, wholly recommend (I got mine from Demon Tweeks).
Hi
I've been looking around and the Lumenition electronic ignition conversion looks a good choice - there a 2 or 3 options.

However, none of the online shops (I've found) list a conversion kit for the distributor fitted to my 900t - Marelli S118CA. Looking at the list of distributors listed in the Haynes manual none of these have a conversion kit listed either.

The enquiry responses from the re-sellers haven't been encouraging/helpful - I'm still waiting to hear back from the manufacturer.

Can those who have the Lumenition kit share what distributors they have and which kit/part number they have?

I suspect that (if there was a specific kit) in the past that this is no longer produced. However, there may still be one gathering dust on a shelf somewhere - knowing the kit number will help track it down.

Thanks in advance.
 
Still no joy tracking down a suitable electronic ignition conversion kit.

I'm thinking that I will need to put up with the standard ignition for now. Consequentially, I've had a better look at the current distributor to see what parts may need replacing. The points look okay (but will replaced as over 12 years old) however, the distributor cap has some issues.

Firstly, when sat on the distributor there is around 2 to 3mm play where the 'notch' fits over the LT connector - this will obviously affect the point where the rotor hits the contacts in the cap (effecting timing). Looking at where the cap fits on the top of the distributor there is nothing obvious to indicate where to line the cap up.

Probably as a consequence of the above one of the contacts in the cap has a grove cut into it by the rotor - the other 3 contacts look in good shape. I've got a couple of old distributor caps and they all have the same wear pattern.

I'm hoping there is a simple fix but if I have to replace the distributor are there any alternatives to the Marelli ones? Or even a way to go straight to electronic ignition?
 
It would cost you a fortune but I'm pretty sure that the company that makes the 123 ignition would do you a one-off conversion as their listings for various options available state that the existing unit is needed.
Alternatively you could have the original distributor overhauled. On my 500, with the distributor in good nick, there is no discernible difference in performance from using the electronic ignition.[emoji3]
 
Hi Peter
By luck I found 123 Ignition this afternoon (before I saw your post) and have sent them an email to find out pricing etc.

As a price point I've spotted a Magneti Marelli S156 distributor which is supposed to fit the 900T (I'm waiting on confirmation), this is around £350. Add on the cost of the electronic conversion (around £200) should give a fair comparison between both options.

In the meantime I'll check out how much it will cost to have my alternator overhauled - not sure if this is a DIY job or something to trust to the experts?
 
In the meantime I'll check out how much it will cost to have my alternator overhauled - not sure if this is a DIY job or something to trust to the experts?

If you can get the parts, overhauling an alternator is fairly easy. The bearings should be readily available and then you will need the brushes, maybe (but probably not) the diode-pack, and the regulator (if it's a separate item). I did it with the 500 and parts were less than £40 total and the potential for seriously worn out parts seemed less probable than on a dynamo.
 
I've had a reply from 123 (www.123ignition-conversions.com).
The price to convert my existing distributor to their 123Tune+ is €565 (approx. £500) including a new uprated coil. Approx 10 days turnaround.

It is a little pricy but when you look at what you are getting it's not too bad.

Firstly it just fits in the same hole that the original distributer fitted in and there are no extra boxes or wizardry to fit.

The real selling point (to me) is that you set the timing using your iPhone/iPad using bluetooth - much easier. It also has a built engine immobiliser (PIN code), something else I was going to buy but won't need to.

The App also has a dashboard that shows engine revs, temperature, battery charge etc.

I'll let you know how I get on.
 
I've had a reply from 123 (www.123ignition-conversions.com).
The price to convert my existing distributor to their 123Tune+ is €565 (approx. £500) including a new uprated coil. Approx 10 days turnaround.

It is a little pricy but when you look at what you are getting it's not too bad.

Firstly it just fits in the same hole that the original distributer fitted in and there are no extra boxes or wizardry to fit.

The real selling point (to me) is that you set the timing using your iPhone/iPad using bluetooth - much easier. It also has a built engine immobiliser (PIN code), something else I was going to buy but won't need to.

The App also has a dashboard that shows engine revs, temperature, battery charge etc.

I'll let you know how I get on.
The version I bought for my 500 lacks all those additional functions and was £224; that was a couple of years ago. It would cost a bit for a new standard one or to have your existing renovated; so that is not actually an unreasonable price.[emoji3]
 
I'll let you know how I get on.

Further to my comment about letting you know how I've got on...

It's been several weeks since I've had time to work on Connie (other DIY jobs), and a little longer since I have started her up. So I thought I'd fire her up today and see what happens.

Even when Connie was regularly on the road (over 10 years ago) it was always a case of fingers crossed and hope for the best when turning the ignition switch. One or two days on the drive usually meant a good ten minutes or more cranking and a 50/50 chance of the battery running flat before she fired up.

Ignition on (fuel pump running), half choke, turn ignition.... fired up immediately and I've still to fully adjust the timing and carb settings :)

Unless you knew what to look for you wouldn't guess that the dizzy was electronic.

FuelPump.jpg


Not only that but it comes with bluetooth connectivity and a load of information displayed via the 123 App - shown here on an iPad.

123Dashboard.jpg


I've still a lot of work to do before I can take her out on the road but at least I know that she will start now (so I have a chance of getting on the road).
 

Typo... 'Facet Position-Flow' should have read 'Facet Posi-Flow'.

Here's a pic of it in position.

Fuel-Pump.jpg


When I first fitted it it was slightly higher up, just below the filter (where the earth point is now). It would pull the fuel through to the filter but didn't have enough oomph to push it to the carb.

This pic was taken this morning, I haven't started Connie for a week and you can see that the fuel filter is still full.

I still need to put some heat shielding in front of the fuel lines etc. to help reduce vapour lock etc. (as the new 4-branch exhaust is much closer than the original single outlet).
 
Typo... 'Facet Position-Flow' should have read 'Facet Posi-Flow'.

Here's a pic of it in position.

Fuel-Pump.jpg


When I first fitted it it was slightly higher up, just below the filter (where the earth point is now). It would pull the fuel through to the filter but didn't have enough oomph to push it to the carb.

This pic was taken this morning, I haven't started Connie for a week and you can see that the fuel filter is still full.

I still need to put some heat shielding in front of the fuel lines etc. to help reduce vapour lock etc. (as the new 4-branch exhaust is much closer than the original single outlet).
On the subject of fuel lines, do yours follow the original route. I have to fit mine soon and have no idea. [emoji16]
 
The fuel lines from the fuel tank to where they enter the engine bay (just behind the exhaust) follow the original path - you can just make them out in this photo.

BrakeAndFuelPipes.jpg


The fuel lines are the two pipes running across and around the bulkhead. The flexible hoses connect to the fuel pipes in the middle of the bulkhead and then connect to the top of the fuel tank (if you haven't already seen it the fuel tank sender and in/out fuel connections are one unit).

As I've fitted an electric fuel pump, I've re-routed the feed fuel line across the back of the engine bay generally following the path of the return line. If you look at the earlier pic's of the 123-Ignition you can see these in the background. (When I add the heat shielding you won't see them.)

If you are keeping the mechanical fuel pump the fuel line runs across the rear cross-member with a short piece of flexible hose connecting this to the pump. (This just adds to the list of bits to watch out for if/when you need to remove the cross-member i.e. to clean out the oil filter.)
 
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