I got my new Cat C this afternoon and it has a problem I have never come across before.

The battery was flat so I connected a battery power pack. Without the key in the ignition, the display is on. Everything seems to work except the indicators. The hazards do.

The fuel cut off is activated which I couldn't deactivate using the indicator stalk as normal

I tried connecting MES but due to the lack of power it kept coming up with errors. I have had to disconnect the battery and I will put a brand new one in it tomorrow, but has anyone got any ideas why this may be happening?

Ignition switch is really only a signal source to tell the ECU what to do. I'd guess that either the switch, or its wiring, or the ECU have been damaged by the knee airbag firing.

Remove the steering cowls and unplug the ignition switch. Then see if problem is still there. If gone, switch is at fault, if still there, will need to trace the wiring back from there to the ECU, especially around the airbag and see if anything damaged.

Once dash is out, wiring will be easy to inspect.

I was speaking to an "expert" this morning who dismantles the cars, he said if the ignition is damaged, I can just swap the key and ignition and shouldn't need the fuse box thingy under the parcel shelf. I thought that needed to be changed as well.

The key contains a microchip, just like we put into cats' and dogs' necks. Like the vet reads the cat's chip, the car reads the key chip, and both ignition and body ECU must accept it. If you change lock and key, you will need the key programmed to the car. Not sure if MES will do this.
Usual way is to get a full set of locks, keys and both ECUs via Ebay, from a scrap car, but needs to be same spec, or higher. Being a Lounge, you really need a lounge ECU. If you fit a Pop ECU, it will not recognise foglamps, or anything else specific to the higher spec. And I think the trip display differs too.

But it is unlikely to be the key at fault. The switch can be replaced, and the existing lock barrel swapped over, so keeping all intact.

Need to diagnose actual fault first.

I think the lock barrel is at fault as it doesn't feel right. There not a distinct click between off and MAR. I think once I disconnect the ignition wiring as mentioned if the ignition stays on then it's probably the ecu or the wiring. My money is on the actual ignition barrel/switch so I'm not sure what the best option is. I believe MES does code keys but you need the code card which I don't have so it might have to be a swap out. Which ECUs is it. Is the ignition one the one behind the dash parcel shelf? Which is the other one?

Incidentally the remote key seems to unlock the car but not lock it.

The switch can be removed separately from the lock barrel. It is the switch that gives the distinct positions, so it would appear that just the switch is needed. Can be got from any similar car.

ECU behind dash is the Body ECU.
Ignition ECU I think is mounted on the battery tray, or nearby.
I don't think you need to swap ECUs though.

Thank you. That sounds feasible. I think I'll get a complete switch and remove the bits I need and keep my fingers crossed.

Great news probably. I have my new spares guy coming to bring me a new ignition switch tomorrow morning so I went out on the dim light and started to dismantle the dash to get at the ignition switch.

As I took the bottom steering wheel cowling off the part of the ignition switch that the plugs are connected to just fell off. It was as suspected the k we airbag that has broken it.

I reconnected the battery and the dash lights all went off. Also the key now locks and unlocks the car which it didn't before.

My only confusion is how I get the ignition switch out and how I change the barrel over into the new switch.

I can see two threaded ends of bolts coming through on the door side but there are metal pointed ends the left, not a torx or a screw of any kind. Photo attached

This is the bits that broke off.

The lock assembly is held on with shear bolts. As an anti-theft measure, the bolt heads shear off when tightened, making removal difficult. Additionally, the bolts are usually placed where access is difficult unless the column is out of the car.

The good news is that the bolts are not normally particularly tight. The official method of removal is with a small chisel against the head, tapped to make it turn. I've never managed to achieve this, but have seen others do it. I've resorted to drilling the heads off, or the last one I did on a Discovery, actually used an eezi-out. First time I've ever been successful with one of those.

You can get new shear bolts from a Fiat dealer, or just use ordinary bolts. Hex key bolts work well. Only a risk if someone gets in at it.

I seem to remember that the switch is fixed into the housing with a roll pin, but into a blind hole, so very difficult to remove. As yours has broken off, the complete housing needs replacing I guess. The lock barrel is quite easy. With the key in, there's a pin or clip that releases it. Can't remember exactly what, but it is quite easy.

many thanks for your help with this. The spares guy came over this morning bringing with him an ignition switch and a key. Plugged his one in and started it with his key and it fired straight away.

He got the bolts out using a chisel and put them back in again with the new one. Swapped over the barrel and it all works now. Considering the car has been sitting not having been started for 2 months, it started first turn.

Well pleased!!

Spent the rest of the day taking the dash and old airbags out and replacing with the new ones. Only thing left to do is replace the seatbelts, airbag ECU and a new windscreen then just an adjustment on the new bonnet, a good clean inside and it's done.

Thanks again for your help.