General 1.2 fan coming on often.
- Thread starter chris red
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General 1.2 fan coming on often.
If it has aircon, the fan works for that as well as engine cooling. It would be a two-speed fan, using first speed for either cooling or aircon, or fast speed for both at once. With aircon and warm weather, fan will run a lot.
If temp gauge reads ok, it is probably fine, however, it takes only minutes to check the coolant level, so have a look. Then check it again tomorrow, and the next day, etc.
If temp gauge reads ok, it is probably fine, however, it takes only minutes to check the coolant level, so have a look. Then check it again tomorrow, and the next day, etc.
Bluetruck
New member
As above check the coolent level. You may need a torch shining into the radiator for that. If its low check the bleed screw near the brake fluid reservoir for leaks and in the area above where the engine and gearbox join. If you have a significant leak please dont drive as these engines dont respond well to being over heated.
If you cannot see through the expansion bottle cut a strip of card and dip the level using the filler neck as a reference then hold against the side of the tank?
I filled it up and it was about 1.5l down my missus drove maybe 100 miles and it overheated, she stopped and put 3l+ into it. She drove another 20 miles home and I had just put about 1.5l into it again it is losing water somewhere.
I checked the oil and it is fine, not high or mayo like. There are no obvious leaks and I couldn't see steam coming from anywhere so I'm a bit stuck.
The heater isn't working either so I'm guessing nothing is getting to the heater matrix.
Any ideas?
I checked the oil and it is fine, not high or mayo like. There are no obvious leaks and I couldn't see steam coming from anywhere so I'm a bit stuck.
The heater isn't working either so I'm guessing nothing is getting to the heater matrix.
Any ideas?
Bluetruck
New member
Did you read my post above? A few clues there......
Clearly you have a serious coolant leak.
I'd strongly recommend you get this fixed before attempting to drive the car again. Whilst robust in most other respects, the FIRE engine is known to be particularly sensitive to being run when low on coolant and you risk serious engine damage if you continue to use it with a known cooling system fault.
Also note that the radiator is an aluminium cored type and will not tolerate being run or even stored without a properly inhibited coolant; using plain water will quickly ruin it. Aftermarket radiators for the 500 can be bought cheaply; just as well, since there've been quite a few reports here of them needing replacement.
I bled the system and a lot of air came out I'll get some coolant mix to add in.
I can't shine a torch into the radiator the only connections are plumbed in.
As I said I can't see where the coolant would be going.
The coolant level is OK at the moment.
I can't shine a torch into the radiator the only connections are plumbed in.
As I said I can't see where the coolant would be going.
The coolant level is OK at the moment.
JNAnderson
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Happened to my 2011 fiat 500 last July and it wa the overflow valve thing (wee black rubber thing that has a silver jubilee clip on and is attached to side of where you put the coolant). Had it in at garage, they changed the radiator and problem was still there. I then figured myself it was coming from valve. Just needed unclipped, pushed on tighter then jubilee clip back on tight.
Non-aircon cars have the coolant reservoir built into the side of the radiator. Shining a torch down into it with the cap off will help show the level inside the tank, and perhaps highlight if the tank is full, but the radiator not. Hopefully that makes a bit more sense now.
As said above, you have a serious leak. It needs to be fixed, soonest.
Head gasket failure can allow coolant to be lost through the combustion chambers, emitted as steam from the exhaust, so difficult to identify. Sniffing the exhaust may identify if this is the case, but not if you don't know the smells.
A water pump leaking may only leak when running, so difficult to find. And the leaked coolant will evaporate, so not leaving any drips to show its loss.
Ideally you need to get to a garage and ask them to pressure test the system. This should identify the problem, then you'll be in a position to decide who and when it gets fixed.
That level of leakage,, cracked thermostat housing would be a key candidate ?
After I bled the air from the system, she drove it for 20 miles with no problems
it has a service a few months and I forgot the car had not been run much since then (recent job change means she drives weekly rather than daily). I'm hoping they didn't bleed the system and this has solved the issue, but somehow I doubt it.
Gonna test for a HGF, I don't have a sniff tester but I'm hoping an examination of the spark plugs and a compression test will sort it.
Does anyone know where the specs for the engine are? Is there a workshop manual anywhere online?
it has a service a few months and I forgot the car had not been run much since then (recent job change means she drives weekly rather than daily). I'm hoping they didn't bleed the system and this has solved the issue, but somehow I doubt it.
Gonna test for a HGF, I don't have a sniff tester but I'm hoping an examination of the spark plugs and a compression test will sort it.
Does anyone know where the specs for the engine are? Is there a workshop manual anywhere online?
Check the water level every day it's tricky to judge and with that loss I suspect it will continue until the issue is sorted.
We have a winner!
I had a mate come round to help. When one of us revved it water pissed out of it. The plastic connection (no ****ing idea why they used plastic) had cracked. It wouldn't leak at idle/low revs but as soon as some pressure built up. it was clear. Managed to get a replacement housing with a metal fixing for £20 as Euros are having a sale
I'm hoping nothing else was buggered. I'm going to flush the cooling system through with some water. Then fill up with fresh proper coolant.
Red/pink anti freeze about 2l of, pull the clip out of the bottom radiator hose and wiggle the quick connector off, fill to brim with water then pull off the bottom hose a let it suddenly drain, pop back on lightly and fill again/repeat you won't believe the rubbish that comes out, hook back together and fill with anti freeze mix, need to bleed the heater hose just above bust stat, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the bleed screw it's very fragile!
Cheers,
I've used both bled screws and they seem OK, so I should be fine. Fingers crossed!
I'd suggest to anyone with the original stat housing if they are doing any work on the engine and already have the airbox off to replace it with one with a metal union, for £20 it's well worth doing to avoid it leaving you stranded or risking overheating.
