Hi,
The clutch on my 500 went over the weekend.
I tracked it down to a fluid leak at the clutch slave cylinder linkage.
(the metal connector, clipped behind the passager side front wheel)
It has a crack in the casing and was leaking the fluid.
I have got a replacement slave cylinder, but I can't work out how the pipe from master unclips out of the linkage.
It looks to be just some sort of push in, but I don't want to pull at it too much.

Any one else done this?

Not sure which engine yours is but this is from the Haynes manual for the 1.2

Where the pipes join, there is a little metal clip that needs pulling out. Did the replacement cylinder come with a new pipe? If so, you have something to view easily, rather than grovelling under the car. Have a look at the connection into the master cylinder, slightly easier to see and understand.

On the pic below, the clip needs to move away from us.

got a new slave to fit... (screetching clutch) to rule it out...shouldn't be the release bearing due to gearbox n clutch being done recently but who knows....


im perfectly capable but the only thing that worries me is the bleeding....
can this be done easily?(depressing clutch)or should I buy a bleeding kit? I have been reading my Haynes but its a bit hard to follow..for me that is
is there a dummys guide here somewhere? or some advice from my fellow gurus there is always the garage....but when you know you can plus
they seem to loose "bits"everytime I visit

forgot to mention wd40 on the slave seems to sort out the screetching….for a few days! that's why im looking at slave

Got me worried there..

You mean you get a screech as you press the pedal..?

WD40.. the parts are plastic.. maybe a PTFE spray would be better..

Bleeding is easy with two people or you can use a bleeding kit or what's basically a rubber pipe with a nail in the end and a knife cut in it as a one way valve bleeding pipe. Your greatest issue is likely the quick connect connector that won't come apart.

varesecrazy said:

Got me worried there..

You mean you get a screech as you press the pedal..?

WD40.. the parts are plastic.. maybe a PTFE spray would be better..

Click to expand...

Yeah just the clutch pedal garage had a look slave may be culprit yes got that spray too

John202020 said:

Bleeding is easy with two people or you can use a bleeding kit or what's basically a rubber pipe with a nail in the end and a knife cut in it as a one way valve bleeding pipe. Your greatest issue is likely the quick connect connector that won't come apart.

Click to expand...

yeah I read that in an older post I think you mentioned... will have to try my best I just get worried when it comes to letting air in!
My partner can help by pressing clutch so no drama there just need some tips (on the bleeding) do I undo the fluid lid & top up? And undo the bleed nipple on new slave ect....

Yes.. the reservoir isnt pressurised..

So just keep the level up
(But dont spill any.. NOT good for paintwork)

varesecrazy said:

Yes.. the reservoir isnt pressurised..

So just keep the level up
(But dont spill any.. NOT good for paintwork)

Click to expand...

Oh I wouldn’t!! Old dust sheet will go around reservoir

The clutch(slave) is a much easier and less stressful introduction to the hydraulics than brakes, remember to remove the rubber bung in the master cylinder filler AND keep an eye on the level due to its small capacity.
This video may help in disconnecting the slave
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEMoroZQM

I've wondered if you can remove the slave from its pipe at the slave end thus no need to disconnect the troublesome quick connector ? I didn't do this as it was at this point ours was leaking.

Note I left the keeper on the end of the piston( just releasing the tabs) as the factory original seemed to have a similar plastic bit on the end.

John202020 said:

The clutch(slave) is a much easier and less stressful introduction to the hydraulics than brakes, remember to remove the rubber bung in the master cylinder filler AND keep an eye on the level due to its small capacity.
This video may help in disconnecting the slave
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEMoroZQM

I've wondered if you can remove the slave from its pipe at the slave end thus no need to disconnect the troublesome quick connector ? I didn't do this as it was at this point ours was leaking.

Note I left the keeper on the end of the piston( just releasing the tabs) as the factory original seemed to have a similar plastic bit on the end.

Click to expand...

Yes I wondered about the keeper I’ll do the same just release the tabs... as for connecting the slave .. it came with a curly pipe with a red rubber end? Do I use this or discard and use mine?
As for bleeding ... I take the top off filler and nipple off slave? Keep eye on filler level and top up as my partner presses clutch? Then replace nipple and cap
Or am I wrong with all the above

IF there is a bleed nipple..

Some modern kit doesnt

Baglady1990 said:

Yes I wondered about the keeper I’ll do the same just release the tabs... as for connecting the slave .. it came with a curly pipe with a red rubber end? Do I use this or discard and use mine?
As for bleeding ... I take the top off filler and nipple off slave? Keep eye on filler level and top up as my partner presses clutch? Then replace nipple and cap
Or am I wrong with all the above

Click to expand...

The new slave cylinder from LUK comes complete with pre-filled pipe that is fitted to the slave cylinder at one end and has one half of a hydraulic quick disconnect at the other end. If you are really lucky, you'll be able to undo the original pipe at the quick disconnect (push the two halves of it firmly together and twist and release). But most of these quick release connectors are seized, swollen or already leaking so the chances are you'll have to one of the following :

Option 1: Just keep your original slave cylinder pipework and only change the cylinder itself by releasing the metal clip and pulling the pipe out of the slave. You'll need to bleed the system if you do this.

Option 2: Cut out the quick-release connector and replace it with a suitably rated hydraulic union (it needs to be good for about 50bar so you can't expect a copper plumbing compression fitting to work reliably). The pipe is 8mm outer diameter and quite thick walled so a proper stainless steel hydraulic union should work without needing pipe inserts. I did this for my Panda.

Option 3: Also replace your master cylinder for £££. The new one also comes with pre-fitted pre-filled pipework and reservoir. With a new master and a new slave cylinder you will complete the whole job in less than an hour and you won't spill a drop of DOT4 (no bleeding required). If you're keeping the car for a while I'd actually do this because most people find that once their slave cylinder is squeaking, leaking or failing, the master cylinder isn't far behind. But the master cylinder is quite expensive so it may put you off.

If you do option 1 or 2 you'll need to bleed the system. The LUK slave cylinder has an awful flimsy plastic bleed nipple and it leaks like crazy through the bleed valve screw threads. Be careful not to break it.

onecleanfinger said:

The new slave cylinder from LUK comes complete with pre-filled pipe that is fitted to the slave cylinder at one end and has one half of a hydraulic quick disconnect at the other end. If you are really lucky, you'll be able to undo the original pipe at the quick disconnect (push the two halves of it firmly together and twist and release). But most of these quick release connectors are seized, swollen or already leaking so the chances are you'll have to one of the following :

Option 1: Just keep your original slave cylinder pipework and only change the cylinder itself by releasing the metal clip and pulling the pipe out of the slave. You'll need to bleed the system if you do this.

Option 2: Cut out the quick-release connector and replace it with a suitably rated hydraulic union (it needs to be good for about 50bar so you can't expect a copper plumbing compression fitting to work reliably). The pipe is 8mm outer diameter and quite thick walled so a proper stainless steel hydraulic union should work without needing pipe inserts. I did this for my Panda.

Option 3: Also replace your master cylinder for £££. The new one also comes with pre-fitted pre-filled pipework and reservoir. With a new master and a new slave cylinder you will complete the whole job in less than an hour and you won't spill a drop of DOT4 (no bleeding required). If you're keeping the car for a while I'd actually do this because most people find that once their slave cylinder is squeaking, leaking or failing, the master cylinder isn't far behind. But the master cylinder is quite expensive so it may put you off.

If you do option 1 or 2 you'll need to bleed the system. The LUK slave cylinder has an awful flimsy plastic bleed nipple and it leaks like crazy through the bleed valve screw threads. Be careful not to break it.

Click to expand...

Hey thanks for this! Yeah may well change the master too is it easy to locate? Is it an under the car job? I’m gonna try fit via the quick release though going on the history of my car it’s probably seized! I’m not rushing into it need to take my time so no mistakes!
I’m good with most of the work on my car but bleeding pipes ect makes me wince

It's way easier when all the parts are new, this is how I did it due to cracked coupling though not leaking, my only mistake was clicking the connector together before I realised I had the pipe routed incorrectly over not under a pipe, only once I had the master out was it clear it had a slight leak behind the dash the master is relatively expensive compared to most parts about £100

Baglady1990 said:

Oh I wouldn’t!! Old dust sheet will go around reservoir

Click to expand...

I now have a picture of a large tarpaulin covering the engine bay, with the reservoir peeping up.

Baglady1990 said:

Hey thanks for this! Yeah may well change the master too is it easy to locate? Is it an under the car job? I’m gonna try fit via the quick release though going on the history of my car it’s probably seized! I’m not rushing into it need to take my time so no mistakes!
I’m good with most of the work on my car but bleeding pipes ect makes me wince

Click to expand...

Master is a bit fiddly, but not really difficult. Two nuts in the engine bay. Rod connects to the pedal with a press-fit socket, just lever it off, squeeze the new on. A little fiddly at the pedals, but not really difficult.

I think I retained the original pipes on mine, disconnected from master and slave, little while ago now.

Bleeding didn't cause any issues. Connect a drain tube to the nipple, into a pot of some sort, slacken a little and have helper push the pedal gently. With pedal held down, tighten nipple, release pedal gently. Repeat until no bubbles emerge. As said, don't run out of fluid in the reservoir.

portland_bill said:

Connect a drain tube to the nipple, into a pot of some sort, slacken a little and have helper push the pedal gently

Click to expand...

Just be aware then (on the OEM part at least) the bleed nipple and bleed screw are completely separate. However securely you attach a drain to the nipple, you'll still have hydraulic fluid all over the place, as it gets sprayed out of the slackened bleed screw. You need an appropriate allen key for the bleed screw.

The mess can be reduced by vacuum bleeding; by far the best way to bleed the clutch on the 500. The master cylinder is very small and contains little fluid, so you will need to top it up frequently and keep a close eye on the level.

An OEM slave is crazy expensive. I can't understand why anyone would pay that, when good aftermarket parts are available for much less money. They could hardly be any poorer in quality than the OEM originals.

John202020 said:

It's way easier when all the parts are new, this is how I did it due to cracked coupling though not leaking, my only mistake was clicking the connector together before I realised I had the pipe routed incorrectly over not under a pipe, only once I had the master out was it clear it had a slight leak behind the dash the master is relatively expensive compared to most parts about £100

Click to expand...

Quick connect is a joke I cannot get it apart the white plastic on the inner is cracked also