Technical notchy gear selection

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Technical notchy gear selection

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I am having to push the clutch pedal fully down for selecting reverse or 1st, car has done 40,000 miles. Does the clutch cable need adjusting ?

thx
 
Why wouldn't you press the clutch pedal fully down?
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Even the owner handbook says: "To engage the gears, press the clutch pedal down fully and shift the gear lever into one of the required positions."
 
Why wouldn't you press the clutch pedal fully down?
confused.gif


Even the owner handbook says: "To engage the gears, press the clutch pedal down fully and shift the gear lever into one of the required positions."

I know the manual says that, but this is real life :p It's often noted that the bite point on 500's is quite high, so you know pretty quick if you are going way past what you know you can get away with usually.
 
I know the manual says that, but this is real life
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Did my wife create an account named DBunX?
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I don't get it. What is the benefit of pressing the clutch pedal only partially?

Back on topic: As far as I know the clutch has a self-adjusting pedal without idle stroke.
 
I am having to push the clutch pedal fully down for selecting reverse or 1st, car has done 40,000 miles. Does the clutch cable need adjusting ?

thx


The clutch is hydraulic. Check the fluid and look for leaks - what you describe are the same symptoms mine displayed when it started leaking.
 
Why wouldn't you press the clutch pedal fully down?
confused.gif


Even the owner handbook says: "To engage the gears, press the clutch pedal down fully and shift the gear lever into one of the required positions."

The car has done 40,000 miles.

Yes its pressed down all the way, now you have to floor it to engage although I make it sound worse than it is.

I checked the engine compartment, there is nothing I can do there to check clutch fluid, so I have to take it to a garage right ?
 
The car has done 40,000 miles.

Yes its pressed down all the way, now you have to floor it to engage although I make it sound worse than it is.

I checked the engine compartment, there is nothing I can do there to check clutch fluid, so I have to take it to a garage right ?

I should if I were you. The brake fluid reservoir serves both the brake system and the clutch on my Twinair and I believe, but am not sure, that all engine models are the same. If the level is normal and no leaks are apparent it might be wise to get the fluid changed.
 
Last edited:
eek.gif
Did my wife create an account named DBunX?
wink.gif


I don't get it. What is the benefit of pressing the clutch pedal only partially?

Quicker gear changes and less wear on your knees are but a few. Ask your wife, I'm sure she could give you a few more reasons on top ;)
 
I should if I were you. The brake fluid reservoir serves both the brake system and the clutch on my Twinair and I believe, but am not sure, that all engine models are the same. If the level is normal and no leaks are apparent it might be wise to get the fluid changed.

I thought about this... the brake fluid was changed at 18,000, the TA has done about 41,500 miles now.

some questions come to mind...

Should the brake fluid be changed again ?
is there anyway to adjust the biting point and make it higher again ?
has the clutch worn ?
 
I thought about this... the brake fluid was changed at 18,000, the TA has done about 41,500 miles now.

some questions come to mind...

Should the brake fluid be changed again ?
is there anyway to adjust the biting point and make it higher again ?
has the clutch worn ?

My manual recommends changing clutch/brake fluid at least every two years. It does deteriorate over time.

The clutch pedal is described as "self-adjusting without idle stroke".

If all else is well the clutch may well be worn. Clutch wear, like brake wear, is very dependent on driving style so it's difficult to exactly how many miles you can expect to get.

Recommend you take it to a brake/clutch specialist.
 
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