Hi does anyone have a pic of the back of the standard stereo? Cheers!
General Stereo Back Panel Picture
- Thread starter KaZetec
- Start date
Currently reading:
General Stereo Back Panel Picture
Pm rui, he's just taken his radio out.
Here is a link to a photo of my stereo
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8303/7989790647_101ac90eab_o.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8303/7989790647_101ac90eab_o.jpg
OP
OP
Lovely. Thank you so much for doing that!
Reason I ask is that I want to put a sub in my boot (well where the foam can/spare tyre would be).
I've done it plenty of times before using after market stereos with Pre-outs but I want to keep my stereo standard this time. I was looking to see if there was a Pre-out of something similar used for the Interscope that I could use. Doesn't look like there is
I'm stuffed if I know how to get an ignition only source for the amp or how I would connect it
Reason I ask is that I want to put a sub in my boot (well where the foam can/spare tyre would be).
I've done it plenty of times before using after market stereos with Pre-outs but I want to keep my stereo standard this time. I was looking to see if there was a Pre-out of something similar used for the Interscope that I could use. Doesn't look like there is
I'm stuffed if I know how to get an ignition only source for the amp or how I would connect it
I've done it plenty of times before using after market stereos with Pre-outs but I want to keep my stereo standard this time. I was looking to see if there was a Pre-out of something similar used for the Interscope that I could use. Doesn't look like there is
I'm stuffed if I know how to get an ignition only source for the amp or how I would connect it
Meanwhile on the other side of the world, I'm in exactly the same boat myself - I bought an amplifier today, what timing.
The row of Mini-ISO connectors - on top, the yellow, green, and blue plugs - ought to have a line-out somewhere in there. It's usually the yellow in other standard-compliant stereos (blue being used for the CD changer/line in, and green being the steering wheel controls) BUT rumour has it that FIAT have not obeyed the usual standards.
On a 500 with Blue&Me like mine you would expect the line in and remote control capabilities to already be used - I was hoping perhaps to find an unused yellow plug and then to try wiring a pair of RCAs to it, hope for the best... but it is risky because somewhere in there is the CAN bus, and you wouldn't want to stuff that up for fear of affecting other CAN devices.
So I'm going to keep looking and see if we can uncover the full pin-out.
As for your switched live, the large ISO power connector on the bottom *should* have a power antenna/antenna amplifier wire, but again, it comes down to whether FIAT followed the standard when they ordered this unit from Blaupunkt or whoever is the OEM.
If all else fails, you can use the cigarette lighter as a remote-amp-turn-on source. Quite safe to do that, just means the amp will be on whenever the ignition is on - and more annoyingly, it won't be on when the stereo is on and the ignition is off.
Something goes 'click' when the stereo is turned on with ignition off, so there must be a relay arranged to provide power when the stereo is on - we need that pin diagram to find out which pin it will be on.
Today I've bought a Sony amp for my front speakers and will perhaps end up using speaker-level inputs (like you, I've been doing 'installs' for years, and I've never used speaker-level inputs) - FIAT/Alfa do it with the Interscope and Bose upgrade systems for various models, so it can't be too bad. You do have the advantage that high-level inputs are less susceptible to interference and you only need speaker wires for the hookups. Also, the Sony amp will turn itself on when it detects a speaker-level input; no need for the remote turn-on wire you're looking for. (I need that for my under-seat subwoofer, though
)-Alex
Last edited:
OK, finally some information...
...but no line-outs.
The optional amplifier uses speaker-level inputs, as I think we already knew.
For the remote wire, I suggest using the pin labelled 'Sub-woofer (12V)' in connector C, rather than the pin labelled Sub-woofer (input) in connector A.
-Alex
...but no line-outs.
The optional amplifier uses speaker-level inputs, as I think we already knew.
For the remote wire, I suggest using the pin labelled 'Sub-woofer (12V)' in connector C, rather than the pin labelled Sub-woofer (input) in connector A.
-Alex
OP
OP
Excellent info! That's the 12v sorted.
Could you (or anyone who knows) tell me now we know the numbers for the wires what wires I need to cut into for it to work correctly? And any parts I may need? Really want to get this done but only once I'm sure I know what I'm doing. Cheers!
Could you (or anyone who knows) tell me now we know the numbers for the wires what wires I need to cut into for it to work correctly? And any parts I may need? Really want to get this done but only once I'm sure I know what I'm doing. Cheers!
Alex, what sort of sub you going for out of interest?
OP, you know which wheel well sub your going for? Thinking of doing similar in my Bravo.
OP, you know which wheel well sub your going for? Thinking of doing similar in my Bravo.
OP
OP
Well my alpine amp and pioneer sub has been in daily use since 2006 (I stupidly gave them to my sister when she passed her test!) so thinking of the same brands. I'm guessing they won't make the exact model of either amp or sub anymore though.
Give me 24 hours I will be finishing my install tomorrow - I'll take photos and post here this time tomorrow.
My under-seat sub is a non-branded product - I have a Fusion unit in my Spider and it's excellent, so might swap for that one if I need to. I don't think an 8" slimline active sub can go too far wrong, though.
Back when I was a teenager I did have a 15" sub in a massive box that I made myself, and a "1200W" (probably 250W) amplifier. The Austin Princess was "boomed out, cuz" and all the bros loved it. That's all history now. These days I expect much less sound and more quality - a nice little kick is all the sub needs to give.
-Alex
I will be finishing my install tomorrow - I'll take photos and post here this time tomorrow.My under-seat sub is a non-branded product - I have a Fusion unit in my Spider and it's excellent, so might swap for that one if I need to. I don't think an 8" slimline active sub can go too far wrong, though.
Back when I was a teenager I did have a 15" sub in a massive box that I made myself, and a "1200W" (probably 250W) amplifier. The Austin Princess was "boomed out, cuz" and all the bros loved it. That's all history now. These days I expect much less sound and more quality - a nice little kick is all the sub needs to give.
-Alex
Last edited:
OP
OP
Can't wait! Thanks!
Just hope the radio is the same as the one in my Ka apart from the front fascia!
Just hope the radio is the same as the one in my Ka apart from the front fascia!
When I removed my radio (head unit) this evening, I found a very useful label on the top that indicates the pin out. Of course I already had that, but it was nice to see further confirmation and saved having to look for the pin numbers on the plugs themselves. The diagram is oriented to match what you see when you look over the back of the stereo (from the top). In other words, it's upside down.
The mini-ISO connector (usually made of blue, green, and yellow parts) is one piece on the 500. Only the three pins at the right-side-of-car end are used - and this is the auxiliary input from the Blue&Me. Beside the centre of these is the 'Booster' (amplifier) output/remote turn on, indicated on the diagram as a switch.
There is also that other input from the 'Booster', going into the ISO power plug (Booster_Det = Detect?). I wonder what that could be for - perhaps it reconfigures the speaker outputs as line-level outputs. Or maybe it just shows the word 'Interscope' on the display, or maybe it enables some special equaliser. Without knowing what sort of signal (+12V? Serial data?) we can't use it, plus we don't need it if we're using the speaker-level outputs with aftermarket amplifiers.
I decided to use the 'Automatic Antenna' connection, which is a standard part of the power-ISO plug (and probably on the Ka, too) but was unused in my car. It made sense because I had a pin to add to the larger ISO power plug (but not one for the mini-ISO plug unless I cut something up).
I checked that this antenna output becomes 12v when listening to either the radio or a CD (some aftermarket headunits will only activate the antenna when listening to the radio).
The space for this antenna connection is easy to spot - top row of pins on the bottom plug, beside two used pins.
I have now completed my sound system (I'm amazed by how much time it took...) and will probably start another thread for it where I will show the speakers, the installation details, and where I intercepted the speaker wires. Everything worked fine once I realised I'd forgotten to connect the main power lead - I had connected the two amps to each other, but neither had power.
-Alex
The mini-ISO connector (usually made of blue, green, and yellow parts) is one piece on the 500. Only the three pins at the right-side-of-car end are used - and this is the auxiliary input from the Blue&Me. Beside the centre of these is the 'Booster' (amplifier) output/remote turn on, indicated on the diagram as a switch.
There is also that other input from the 'Booster', going into the ISO power plug (Booster_Det = Detect?). I wonder what that could be for - perhaps it reconfigures the speaker outputs as line-level outputs. Or maybe it just shows the word 'Interscope' on the display, or maybe it enables some special equaliser. Without knowing what sort of signal (+12V? Serial data?) we can't use it, plus we don't need it if we're using the speaker-level outputs with aftermarket amplifiers.
I decided to use the 'Automatic Antenna' connection, which is a standard part of the power-ISO plug (and probably on the Ka, too) but was unused in my car. It made sense because I had a pin to add to the larger ISO power plug (but not one for the mini-ISO plug unless I cut something up).
I checked that this antenna output becomes 12v when listening to either the radio or a CD (some aftermarket headunits will only activate the antenna when listening to the radio).
The space for this antenna connection is easy to spot - top row of pins on the bottom plug, beside two used pins.
I have now completed my sound system (I'm amazed by how much time it took...) and will probably start another thread for it where I will show the speakers, the installation details, and where I intercepted the speaker wires. Everything worked fine once I realised I'd forgotten to connect the main power lead - I had connected the two amps to each other, but neither had power.
-Alex
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2010
- Messages
- 3,696
- Points
- 795
This is a jolly interesting thread (even though I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about).
Thanks - and sorry
Basically, the standard 500 has the speakers connected to the head unit. The Interscope-equipped 500 has upgraded speakers connected to an amplifier. I decided to fit upgraded speakers and an amplifier, to get something closer to the Interscope result. The amplifier needs a power supply and a wire, from the stereo, to turn it on (the amplifier turns itself on when it 'sees' 12V on this wire). Getting this 12V wire from the head unit is the topic of this thread. Well, the first topic - the next is where to pick up the speaker wires.
I've started a Guide - which should make it all clear - however, I haven't got to the best bits yet! I shall work on it over several evenings (just like the car).
-Alex
Last edited:
