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Old 1 Week Ago   #16
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Re: Idle too high

Quote Originally Posted by turbo500 View Post
Ok so I solved the issue of the air cable, the spring on the carb side of the air line wasnt set correctly, I just had to make sure the little 'tongue' was sitting right, so it works now.

But I went for a short test drive, and noticed after parking there is a leak of some sort on the front right wheel. I'm not sure what it is, but the bottom of the hub is wet. On a side note, when I turn the hub, there is a bit of a scoring/rubbing sound for a part of each rotation?

,
Hi,
Only source for that amount of liquid is brake fluid. If it's affected the paint on the wheel that would be confirmation. With that much of leak you should not drive the car until it's sorted. Probably a seal gone on the slave cylinder.

Robert G8RPI.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #17
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Re: Idle too high

Yeah thats what I assumed. Does the workshop manual explain how to get to it?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #18
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Re: Idle too high

There is a workshop manual here that has an explanation on how to remove the wheel and the hub in order to get to the wheel cylinder. Page 104 onwards.

Rather than change the seals you are better off replacing all four cylinders they are not expensive. You should replace the shoes now as well as they will be contaminated by the hydraulic fluid. Hopefully the brake lines come off ok as they can be difficult to remove if they have been in situ for a long time.

http://docfiat500.free.fr/Pour%20TIB...500_Manual.pdf
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Old 1 Week Ago   #19
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Re: Idle too high

I think I will probably get a whole new brake repair kit (shoes, springs, cylinder, hoses, etc) and do all 4 corners to get rid of issues.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #20
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Re: Idle too high

So if I use the same brake drum, and put in new shoes, springs, hoses, etc, how should I clean the existing drum?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #21
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Re: Idle too high

Quote Originally Posted by turbo500 View Post
So if I use the same brake drum, and put in new shoes, springs, hoses, etc, how should I clean the existing drum?
Funnily enough, brake cleaner. This is a solvent or blend of solvents designed for the job.
American brands are CRC Brakleen, Valolene Brake parts cleaner
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VCR681046
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRC05051
(above examples only other suppliers and brands available)
Both are available in aerosol or jugs, take your choice.
Note that the old linings almost certainly contain asbestos so wear a dust mask at least.

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Last edited by g8rpi; 1 Week Ago at 17:20.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #22
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Re: Idle too high

Realized after I wrote my post that brakeleen is what I would need.

So if I were to do all 4 brakes, here is the list of stuff I figured I would need:

-4 brake shoes per axle
-4 brake cylinders
-2 front brake hoses + 2 rear brake hoses
-4 drums (if I decide to change those as well)
-1 brake pump (if I decide to change that)
-6 brake pipe retaining clips
-2 banjo bolt for brake cylinder
-2 retaining clips for banjo bolt
-4 copper banjo bolt washers
-8 spring for brake shoe
-anti seize
Does this seem right?

Isn't there also a bolt that is left handed and another that is right handed for the front brakes?

Anyone know the size of the split pins/cotter pins for the rear handbrake?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #23
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Re: Idle too high

Seems right. I would measure the inner diameter of your drums. There is a maximum diameter and once beyond this the brake efficiency is compromised. Also check for scores and marks. The front drums are held on by nuts and one is left hand thread and one is right hand thread. These are peened into a slot in the hub to secure them and should be used once only so I would get new ones. The split pin for the handbrake is a small thin one. Sorry dont know the exact size but I have a kit of various split pins and just cut down one of the correct diameter
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Old 1 Week Ago   #24
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Re: Idle too high

Thanks Paolo, I'll just pick up the cotter pins at the hardware store.

Yeah the cost is so cheap for the hub nut that I'll get new ones and clean the old ones for backup. I noticed there is also a lock ring for the hub nut, is that standard equipment?

Edit: I'm looking at the workshop manual, and I can't find the banjo bolt mentioned anywhere, where is it located?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #25
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Re: Idle too high

The banjo bolt attaches the front flexible brake hoses to the cylinders. A copper washer on each face (2 per side) and a special lock washer to hold it in place
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Old 1 Week Ago   #26
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Re: Idle too high

Ok thanks.

On a side note, what light bulbs do I need for the dashboard and the two lights on either side of the dashboard?

I keep finding people saying 12V 4W and others say 12V 3W. Always bayonet BA9s base.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #27
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Re: Idle too high

Quote Originally Posted by turbo500 View Post
Ok thanks.

On a side note, what light bulbs do I need for the dashboard and the two lights on either side of the dashboard?

I keep finding people saying 12V 4W and others say 12V 3W. Always bayonet BA9s base.
Both my manuals say 2.5W. Don't put any higher in or it will melt the lens.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #28
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Re: Idle too high

As I said in a previous post. I would double check that you can undo the brake pipes from the rear of the wheel cylinders before ordering any parts.

I did exactly the same with my own restoration, massive order of parts including all the brake parts. I wasn't intending to replace the pipes as they looked ok. I went to remove the old cylinders and install the new wheel cylinders and the nuts wouldn't shift and just rounded off. Just try a quarter turn on each pipe to make sure they are loose, you are going to have to drain the hydraulic fluid out anyway.

I had to cut the brake pipes in the end and replace them with new.

Tony
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Old 1 Week Ago   #29
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Re: Idle too high

Hi Tony, even if I am ordering new pipes? If they are stuck wouldn't I just drill them out if they wont budge?

In either case, thanks for the heads up, I will try and turn them for all 4 corners to prepare myself for what kind of a jo lies ahead!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #30
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Re: Idle too high

Quote Originally Posted by turbo500 View Post
Hi Tony, even if I am ordering new pipes? If they are stuck wouldn't I just drill them out if they wont budge?

In either case, thanks for the heads up, I will try and turn them for all 4 corners to prepare myself for what kind of a jo lies ahead!
You just undo the two nuts holding the wheel cylinder to the back plate. They are not normally a problem. The problem is the wheel cylinder comes out the shoe side of the back plate and the pipe comes through a hole in the back plate from the other side, so if the pipe is stuck in the back of the cylinder its easiest just to chop the pipe an inch or so away from the wheel cylinder and take the wheel cylinder and bit of pipe remaining off and chuck it in the trash!

Do you like that I speak American now! Trash!

Tony
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