Sorry i do have another question

At the weekend I finished the front brakes/wheels (although a drive will tell if I got the hub nuts correct!) and was tackling the rears. One wheel was OK (although the brake shoes are even more of a b***er to get on than at the front ).

On the other wheel I could not budge any of the four drum/hub bolts. With the wheel off and the handbrake on, the amount of force applied via a long bar still turned the wheel. With the wheel back on and the car on the ground the bolts are accessible but only with a spanner (with less leverage). I have been dousing the bolts in WD40 but still without a sign of movement :bang:

Any of your useful hints or suggestions?

Hi Andrew,

I should be tackling the rears today, and I found this video that shows the whole process pretty well.



He uses a blowtorch to heat up the bolts, I tried using the blowtorch to free the front brake lines from the flexible hoses but didn't manage

Good luck let us know how it goes, so I know what to expect.

Thanks Turbo.

Amazing...only 11 minutes

It took me all day to do the one and I didn't even do all the cleaning/sanding etc

Glad he struggled at the same points as I did though (removing and refitting the shoes).

I'm not sure I want to resort to a blowtorch (and the only one I have is my wife's culinary blowtorch she uses for creme brulees so i am not sure she will be too keen!) but it may come to that.

I'm afraid I won't get back to this until next Sunday apart from a daily dose of WD40 onto the bolts so won't be able to help if you doing this today.

AndrewRL said:

Any of your useful hints or suggestions?

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Andrew get yourself a torque wrench, it will give you the extra leverage and you will be able to put your weight on it if necessary by standing on it. Be careful though as the hub bolts are not the strongest things in the world and you may end up shearing it off.

A torque wrench is always a handy thing to have in your tool box.

If you do get them of put some copper grease on the threads to prevent it happening again.

Tony

Hi Tony, any reason for choosing copper grease rather than nickel grease?

From what I read nickel is more waterproof, resists higher temps and is more compatible with metals.

turbo500 said:

Hi Tony, any reason for choosing copper grease rather than nickel grease?

From what I read nickel is more waterproof, resists higher temps and is more compatible with metals.

Click to expand...

I think from what I have read previously that nickel is more aimed at stainless steel and as you say higher temps but copper grease is more than adequate temperature wise for wheel nuts etc...

I have always used it on the back of brake pads for modern cars and the back of alloy wheels where they mate with the hub when tightened up.

What are your thoughts on Aluminum anti seize? (It seems to be recommended for marine use) so should be great for people in very wet/humid areas.

Try tightening the bolts and then loosening them. Repeat this a couple of times so you are sort of rocking the bolt forwards and backwards and it might give. If that doesnt work put a bit of M10 stud or a long bolt in one of the wheel bolt holes. Do the same in the one opposite and then jam a bit of bar between these two so when you spin the wheel the bar jams on the ground thus preventing the wheel from spinning. You can then try removing the nuts. If that fails try and borrow an impact driver off someone

turbo500 said:

What are your thoughts on Aluminum anti seize? (It seems to be recommended for marine use) so should be great for people in very wet/humid areas.

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Not really come across it. My friend has a power boat cruiser type thing that I have done some work on. Anything marine seems to cost 10 x more than the equivalent thing on dry land!

AndrewRL said:

t to resort to a blowtorch (and the only one I have is my wife's culinary blowtorch she uses for creme brulees so i am not sure she will be too keen!) but it may come to that.

I'm afraid I won't get back to this until next Sunday apart from a daily dose of WD40 onto the bolts so won't be able to help if you doing this today.

Click to expand...

We have things the other way round in our house and the garage blowtorch has just crisped up some brulees this supper-time.....Yummy.......the oil and dust adds a certain something to the flavour.

I don't think heat will really help anyway and penetrating-oil probably isn't the answer either. It's likely just to be the friction of the relatively high torque setting which is making them seem immovable. If you can't get a socket on with the wheel still on, then a torque-wrench is no good and you may damage its calibration using it that way. A long breaker-bar would be better for that.

Now that I have a compressor and an air-impact-wrench, it's easy to remove things like this, but before I had that I used to remove them with the wheel on and on the ground, using a ring-spanner whacked with a 4lb hammer to get them moving. It's a knack and you have to use one hand to keep light pressure on the ring to keep it over the hexagon-flats.

'JP WELD' is normally used for restoring/repairing metal--Araldite is usually used for gluing metal together (before modern epoxies, like they use on the Lotus chassis)--we used Araldite (plus rivets) for bonding all the various body panels together at 'Trojans' (builders of McLaren customer 'Formula 5000' and 'Can-am' cars). I would be tempted to try something like 'Gorilla'--it is a modern 'superglue' and I find it very useful in the workshop. But, as has been previously pointed out, the bushes are so cheap, you might as well just buy new and just 'play' with the originals.

how do i keep the rear drum from spinning to remove the hub bolts??

I tried to keep it in gear and handbrake on but nothing its still moving too much

I followed Peter's advice and with the wheel back on and the car on the ground I just had room to get a ring spanner on the bolts and tapped the spanner gently (ish) with a heavy hammer until the bolts loosened. Then jacked up/supported the car and removed the wheel again then the hub.

Now I am just trying to bleed the brakes after replacing the shoes and cylinders. Not much room to put a tube on the front nipples!!! Seem to be making progress but still not right so may have to go round all 4 wheels again hoping I haven't done something fundamentally wrong.

AndrewRL said:

I followed Peter's advice and with the wheel back on and the car on the ground I just had room to get a ring spanner on the bolts and tapped the spanner gently (ish) with a heavy hammer until the bolts loosened. Then jacked up/supported the car and removed the wheel again then the hub.

Now I am just trying to bleed the brakes after replacing the shoes and cylinders. Not much room to put a tube on the front nipples!!! Seem to be making progress but still not right so may have to go round all 4 wheels again hoping I haven't done something fundamentally wrong.

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Great...I have the 126 wheel on, so I can't do it with the wheels on.

I think I will have to resort to taking it to a tyre shop and asking them to undo the bolts with an airgun

Keep going with the brakes. I had to go round twice until everything was solid. Give the air chance to get to the nipples. You're not going to get air from the master cylinder through the rear brakes just by pumping twice on the pedal