Hi all
Just topping up oil for the gear box today and noticed that one of the blocks on the back of the hubs look damaged.
Are they difficult to replace ?
I have included photos of both, should the metal casing butt up to the rear of the hub or should there be a gap like in the second photo ?
Thanks
Darryl

The first one is toast Darryl, and needs replacing before you go any distance. They are easy to do as long as you Blank out the subject of "bearing pre-load" . You need a 13mm spanner and a 32mm socket. Keep searching down the forum as it's been discussed quite a lot fairly recently.

Thanks, will do.
Do you reckon the second one should have that space ?

Totally agree with Peter Daryll. That first one is really bad. Definitely check the second one before putting an order for parts in. If you can I would change them both. Disconnect drive shaft flange bolts with 13mm socket or spanner. Be careful when you come to pull this away from the hub as there is a spring on the end of drive shaft. Don't lose it. You'll then be left with removing the split pin and undoing the big nut (32mm socket).

Took off the flange bolts no problem, no spring on the end ! the 32mm is being stubborn and won't budge !
Just Checkin, I presume it comes off anti clockwise and it's not some Italian thing that it loosens clockwise ?
Although it didn't stop me slipping the coupling off !

Was 32mm nut split pinned? If so it shouldn't be that tight. If it wasn't split pinned you have later hubs and the nut will be peened into a groove

It was split pinned, I will try again tomorrow, I have wd40 on it, hopefully it will help

You should really replace both rubber couplings. When one goes bad the other is usually not far behind, plus they are really not that expensive.
John

I was thinking that John, thanks, was pondering the cv joints that are available. If I manage to get this 32mm nut off !

Definitely go for both, also buy new springs and check if shaft circlips are there, dont need to worry for bearing preload as this is allready set but cotter pin may not fit in the castle nut so you may be need to play with washer thicknesses. Better find older posts and reed about preload to understand what we are talking about. Done that recently.

Thomas

Cheers Thomas,
I am making enquiries to see if the cv joint will work for me.
I believe I have the thicker axles from an R and the axle stubs are the D type.
Not sure if there is a difference ?

Could I ask a(nother) stupid question ?
If I remove the flexible couplings from the car, cable tie up the axle shafts, will I do any harm or cause any problems when I refit if I leave it like that for a few days while I wait for parts ?
Thanks
Darryl

Not sure if it is necessary to put cv joints,original configuration if engine is stock is enough. You can remove the flex joints and then put the axles back to their position no problem.

Eventually got both sides off, spares ordered ! Decided to stick with the standard and see how they go.

dk500 said:

Could I ask a(nother) stupid question ?
If I remove the flexible couplings from the car, cable tie up the axle shafts, will I do any harm or cause any problems when I refit if I leave it like that for a few days while I wait for parts ?
Thanks
Darryl

Click to expand...

No is the answer, the rubber boot at the diff end should be fine with this.

If you fit a nylock nut instead, you can torque it up to exactly the right pre-load and there's no need to tighten further or back off to lign up. Ultimately, I don't think it makes much difference, but as nylocks are readily available in this size (hopefully the same in US), why not.

Cheers, Steve

Hi
I have spare parts ordered and they should be here Monday, so I am going to replace the axle boots at the diff at the same time as they have had a small leak.
I have read lots of posts regarding the boots and couplings replacement and just wanted to confirm the procedure.
1) jack car up one side to drain fluid away from boot.
Unbolt oil boot retainer and swop on new boots and revolt retainer.
I will try swapping out seal into metal holder in originals if I find them in place as referred to elsewhere on forum.
2) bolt on coupling to 20.3 lb/ft and adjust to fit split ring.
3) grease spring inside shaft, splines and inner of metal coupling, attach circling and dirt boot and bolt back up.
Is it ok to use the same grease here as I use on the kingpins ?
4) carry out 450g / 4.5 inch test with wheel off to test hub as discussed elsewhere on forum.
Is there any easier way of doing this ? Is it definitely necessary?

I was also just looking underneath to check the leak from the boots today and noticed the difference between one side and the other where the flexible coupling fits to the hub.
There appears to be an extra ring on one side. I hope I am correct in thinking this is part of the hub bearings and will be pushed back into place when refitting the flexible coupling ?
I read elsewhere to ensure the coupling goes on the right way around, on the old one, both sides look the same ?
Thanks again, all advice or tips greatly appreciated!
Darryl

I forgot to add the photos

The new flexible joints will have a bit sticking out of the centre. This goes against the hub spacer ring so will stop the flexible joint touching the seal

dk500 said:

There appears to be an extra ring on one side. I hope I am correct in thinking this is part of the hub bearings and will be pushed back into place when refitting the flexible coupling ?
I read elsewhere to ensure the coupling goes on the right way around, on the old one, both sides look the same ?
Thanks again, all advice or tips greatly appreciated!
Darryl

Click to expand...

This extra ring is a spacer between the wheel bearing and the flex coupling. It's outer surface is in touch with the hub seal. YOU HAVE ONE IN EACH WHEEL DON'T YOU?
The one at your left picture is fully in (correct position) and the one at he r/h picture is out of its position.

As for the coupling don't worry it has the four holes for the four long 13mm bolts that secure the metal spline flange to the flex coupling, just make sure the thread of those holes is close to the wheel and not close to the gearbox.

As for the torque thing this is for setting the preload and crashing the spacer between the two bearings, it is only 4.5 in/lb, if we assume that this is set correctly before there is no need to do it again (besides you can't if you don't put new spacers between the bearings). Tight the 32 castle nut and check that the axle without the wheel is turning quiet easy with your hand and after you assembly everything back check again with the wheel on if the wheel assembly has a play.
The only thing that you must be careful is the castle nut cotter pin, if this is not align with the axle hole normally there are two things you can do, back off but then you will have loose bearing load, or tight more until hole is align with the castle nut but then you will crash the spacer between the bearing and you will have very tight bearing assembly more than 4.5 in/lb and we don't want any of those two things. You can play with shims/washers between the nut and the flex coupling or try another 32 castle nut or even take down the thickness of the nut on a lathe. So everything is align. Lets hope that it will come fine and none of the alternatives above will be necessary. I change my shafts with new that secure with stake nuts that overcomes the cotter pin align problem.
Not sure if i explain it clear, i hope you understand what i am trying to say.

Thank you