Technical External head/barrell refurb.

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Technical External head/barrell refurb.

Apriliarider

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Taken the engine out to give it a bit of a winter refurb, having taken the head off its in a bit of a scruffy state so looking to get that and the barrells cleaned up externally.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go within the south east to get it done, or of a method to do it myself maybe?

Thanks for any help, Rob.
 
Hi, sorry if it wasnt clear. Yes, just cleaning gunk of the finned surfaces and getting it back to a good condition.
 
In my experience, the barrels and head had just light surface corrosion. They aren't visible when assembled and I didn't consider that this had any operational implications. If there is any oily deposit you just need a basic degreaser.
There was a debate a few weeks ago about whether or not some sort of coating would help with cooling. With the environment these things operate in, I think that a healthy and enthusiatically used engine will quickly clean its own barrels anyway.:D:D
 
Hi, sorry if it wasnt clear. Yes, just cleaning gunk of the finned surfaces and getting it back to a good condition.

So you have two things to do. Clean up the gunk and fixing what caused it. Be very careful with the head. Do not scratch or damage the surface that the head gasket fits to.

To clean the head and barrels you should scrape and wipe off as much as you can. To clean you can use different solvents. Here in the USA the automotive parts stores sell "parts cleaner" or "carburetor cleaner" by the gallon (3.8 L). Not sure what you can buy in the UK. Another product that works well is called Simple Green. This can be used full strength or diluted with some water. Again, widely available in the USA.
With any of these products put the cleaners in a big plastic or metal bucket and soak the parts over night before scrubbing. Cover as tightly as possible to prevent evaporation.
With either product you will need to wear gloves. Also you will need to get some brushes. Old toothbrushes work great. Best to use brass brushes instead of steel. Steel can scratch.
If you use the parts or carburetor cleaner you must do it outside.

To prevent future gunk you will need to buy a head gasket kit which should have all the gaskets you need to seal things up.
John
 
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You might try a Motor Factor's to see what they stock for cleaning parts.
'Gunk' or 'Jizer' used to work well on steel/iron/alumimium parts.There's probably more modern/better cleaning agents nowadays.

Any solvent will remove grease/oil. Petrol,diesel,white spirit, paint thinners.
Surfaces will need to agitated with a brush at intervals.

Can boil parts in a solution of washing powder.

Can heat iron/steel parts with a blowtorch to remove burnt on deposits.
Oven cleaner will work on iron/steel parts. Or Caustic Soda (drain cleaner)

Don't use anything caustic/alkaline/acidic (especially caustic soda) on aluminium parts.

Steam cleaning.
Sand blasting.
Bead blasting.

I worked in a workshop that used a tank of Trichloroethylene (TCE):eek: for degreasing parts. I don't this is allowed any more....

Al.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will just give them a good go at with various bits then, can get hold of a medium ultrasonic bath that the barrels will fit in with a bit of a turn for either side so will try that.

Thanks for the advice on the engine. Used to doing engine work but mostly on modern motorcycles but will keep an eye on the surfaces. May give it a hone and new rings as well but they look ok as it stands, will measure up properly over the weekend. Have a full gasket kit ready to go on so will be doing that as well as clearances etc.
 
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