Technical Break down of smurf !

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Technical Break down of smurf !

dk500

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Covered 80km yesterday, tweeked idle and mixture, all good !
Covered 10km today and was just heading off again from home, 1.5km and smurf just died !
Turning over but won't catch.
Push start almost worked !
Fuel appears to be bubbling through fuel line on way to carb.
Any thoughts ?
 
Stripped fuel pump and reassembled, doesn't appear to be damaged but very dirty, tested before reinstalling and there was no suction. Refitted and no joy. Do I have to do anything to prime it or refit to pump lifter in a particular way ? I think I will buy a replacement as try are so cheap ! There appears to be 3 different sizes in flange seal, .3 / .7 / 1.2 ! Will it make any difference ? Is there any point in replacing the lifter ? Does the lifter just pull out ?
 
The seals are for ensuring the pump rod projects the correct amount. Too much and it will break the pump, too little and it won't pump enough. Picture of instructions below
 

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Thanks paolo, any chance of the top half of that page !
 
Non problemo. Its from a 126 manual so for a 650 engine. Same principles
 

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Replaced the fuel pump, still no joy. Just a clicking noise when trying to start ! Almost sounds as if battery is dead now ! Any ideas ?
 
Check that the earth strap is secure, and the connection good, at both the engine end and the body end.
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Any tips on removal
Negative terminal first
Positive second
Reverse to refit
 
A dead battery would not cause the engine to just die ?
 
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Thanks Andrew,
Nervous about removing battery, and touching spanner off car body as it is a little tight in the front as you know.
 
Wrap spanner in tea towel
Undo positive terminal first
Lever off terminal with wide bladed screwdriver ( also wrap it in a tea towel)
Job done
 
Wrap spanner in tea towel
Undo positive terminal first
Lever off terminal with wide bladed screwdriver ( also wrap it in a tea towel)
Job done

NO

Forget the towel, (good idea in the circumstances though).

Definitely disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery first. If you connect with a metal part of the car it won't cause problems. Use a small spanner so you can't touch the positive (larger) terminal. Keep the plastic cover over for now.
Then take off the positive making sure that the negative has been securely stowed where it can't ping back accidentally.

When refitting you put the positive back first. As there can't be any circuit made, you won't get sparks unless you connect the spanner through to the negative pole. Finally reconnect the negative.
 
Thanks Peter,
Will the negative spark when reconnecting? If I know to expect it , I won't be as shocked ! Literally :)
 
Thanks Peter,
Will the negative spark when reconnecting? If I know to expect it , I won't be as shocked ! Literally :)

Only if you catch the positive terminal with the spanner...put the cap on it. You might get little blue sparks if there's anything connected and powered at the time. Nothing to worry about and best take the key out first and make sure everything turned off.

By the way, the main danger is not of shock as this is all 12 volt stuff, but there is a risk of fire and there is a particular risk of sparks near the battery igniting hydrogen gas which is given off in the process of charging. I think that incidences of that are very rare but it's worth knowing.

The terminals may be stuck tight even when the clamp-bolt is loose,in which case slacken it some more and then get the broad screwdriver, wedge it in the gap between the bolt-holes and gently twist the sides apart....just a little.
 
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Old battery 330a 45ah 12v
New battery 430a 48ah 12v
I'm told it should be ok ?
Hope this gets my little motor moving !
 
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