I would agree with Peter's suggestion---just be very careful. You are only trying to remove a 'gnat's cock' in amount, so use very fine emery-cloth, plenty of oil and a VERY delicate touch. You will find that you will end up stripping/rebuilding the bearing/crank-end assembly a number of times--you can ONLY take off, you can not put back! Keep everything scrupulously clean when you refit parts, and well lubricated. I build up en engine with either (a) Graphogen or, (b) a 50/50 mixture of a '30' oil and STP--the oil to lubricate, the STP to retain the lubrication on the required parts. Just remember--do NOT put the 'bit left over' into the engine until it is well run-in, or it won't run-in!

Ian, did you check the amount of movement with your DTI? When you have the precise reading of how much you need to lose from the thrust face or the spacer, you could micrometer- measure the item that needs reducing in thickness and calculate your target dimension. However, I have successfully rebuilt my two Fiat engines with new mains, and later swapped the oil pulley on one of them, neglecting this measurement without disastrous consequences.

the hobbler said:

I would agree with Peter's suggestion---just be very careful. You are only trying to remove a 'gnat's cock' in amount, so use very fine emery-cloth, plenty of oil and a VERY delicate touch. You will find that you will end up stripping/rebuilding the bearing/crank-end assembly a number of times--you can ONLY take off, you can not put back! Keep everything scrupulously clean when you refit parts, and well lubricated. I build up en engine with either (a) Graphogen or, (b) a 50/50 mixture of a '30' oil and STP--the oil to lubricate, the STP to retain the lubrication on the required parts. Just remember--do NOT put the 'bit left over' into the engine until it is well run-in, or it won't run-in!

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Thanks Tom, Graphogen on order. Can you confirm that I will get the same result if I remove material from the spacer (I appreciate that it will take longer) I'll get my DTI out and check the required amount for removal. I am loath to attack the bearing surface, so will do the next best (harder) thing and thin the spacer!!!

Ian.

Bleeding Knuckles said:

Thanks Tom, Graphogen on order. Can you confirm that I will get the same result if I remove material from the spacer (I appreciate that it will take longer) I'll get my DTI out and check the required amount for removal. I am loath to attack the bearing surface, so will do the next best (harder) thing and thin the spacer!!!

Ian.

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Well, having had a chat with Tom and a good think about what I propose to do I've had to change my mind (again) the problem is that if I remove material from the spacer at the outboard end of the bearing I will alter the position of the timing chain drive sprocket if only slightly. So the assembly is coming apart and the bearing face will be adjusted just enough to obtain the minimum clearance of 0.30mm the attached pic will show the position of the relevant components, the drive sprocket is coloured yellow and the spacer blue (ish) I'll get on with the measuring and the disassembly pending the Graphogen arrival

Ian.

Started today with the attack on the bearing surface to obtain the correct End-float found a good sized piece of glass, wet 'n' dry and wd40. It was slow going at first as I kept thinking "I hope i'm doing the right thing here"! A gentle circular motion is all that is needed then clean up thoroughly and reassemble and measure -damn only half way disassemble and start again, after half an hour of circles I arrived at 0.30mm end float and the Graphogen arrived at least four days early (parcel force really are getting the finger out!!) On with the Graphogen and locktite the bolts Still waiting for some poxy little spring washers so no more progress on this end. Camshaft next

Ian.

As the rebuild continues I have run up against an issue with the air intake hose I have, in that it's old and stiff (same as me then!)
So after canvassing the web I noted to my horror that you can pay anything from 13 euro to 19 pounds without postage/shipping But then a light went on and I vaguely remembered something somewhere about reconditioning rubber parts - a quick search later and I had the answer
but not the required silicone spray
Apparently it's all to do with the natural ageing of the rubber and the leeching out over time of softening chemicals called 'Plasticisers.' Silicone Spray contains the required plasticisers to keep the rubber pliable
So all you need to do is grab a bin bag big enough soak the part thoroughly with the spray and tie up the bag for up to seven days - check and replace if needed. Result!!!!
Only downside is that Silicone spray does stink

Ian.

I

fiat500 said:

Ian Bleeding Knuckles, I obviously wasn't aware that Tom has actually physically seen the damage; so coupled with the fact that I didn't properly read that you were looking for an "engine guru", which I most definitely am not, I would go with his recommendations.

Either I have been lucky (because I'm not the world's most precision engine builder) or because I have stuck with standard components, fortunately, so far, I have had no personal experience of that level of internal engine trouble.

When you are back on the road I would definitely stick to the Fiat running-in regime which indicates that you were probably pushing your little baby a bit hard at 60mph within the first 300 km. So don't let on to the machinist that you were doing that.

Good luck and good on you for getting stuck in so quickly.

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have some similar problem - I have a sound at idle I never used to before - could it be piston related? Also oil gets splattered all over engine bay while driving