General Oil change guide
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General Oil change guide
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dk500
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Hi Toshi
Thanks for the reply. Apologies I really did but explain properly !
Below is cut and paste from another thread about oil change.
But I cannot seem to open them to know how to do oil change
Darryl
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/348110-right-type-oil.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/348589-500-d-oil-change-guide.html
Those links should answer the questions but basically...yes there is a filter and 20/50 seems a good way to go with oil.
Nice car...welcome to the forum.
Thanks for the reply. Apologies I really did but explain properly !
Below is cut and paste from another thread about oil change.
But I cannot seem to open them to know how to do oil change
Darryl
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/348110-right-type-oil.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/348589-500-d-oil-change-guide.html
Those links should answer the questions but basically...yes there is a filter and 20/50 seems a good way to go with oil.
Nice car...welcome to the forum.
Hi Darryl,
If you are asking how to change the engine oil in a 500, it isn't difficult and what follows is a brief description of the method.
1) Run the engine until it is hot.
2) Place a suitable container (at least 3 litres in capacity) under the sump plug area.
3) Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine.
4) Remove the sump plug and let the hot oil run out into the container.
5) Go have a cup of coffee while the oil runs out and the engine cools down.
6) Once the oil has run out remove the centrifugal filter cover and clean the sediment out of it. This can be quite fiddly and is probably the main reason why the filter is never cleaned. If the oil hasn't been changed for a while or the filter housing serviced, there maybe quite a build up of gunk. These engines do not have a formal filter as you know it, but rather the oil goes through a centrifugal slinger on the rear of the engine that just throws the sludge against the outside wall where it stays. Primitive but effective.
7) Replace the filter cover with a new o-ring. The cover bolts are eccentrically arranged so that the cover only goes on one way (it also has the timing markings on it). Don't overtighten the bolts as the engine is alloy and you'll strip the threads. The recommended torque is around 6ftlb.
8) Replace the sump plug with a new seal.
9) Fill the engine with your favourite mineral oil (20W50 or thereabouts) through the filler at the top of the engine. Use just under 3 litres in the first instance.
10) Replace the filler cap.
11) Check the oil level on the dipstick.
12) Start and run the engine checking that the oil pressure light goes out and that the engine isn't leaking.
13) Stop the engine and recheck the dipstick. Top up as necessary.
14) Document all of this somewhere - date, mileage, type and volume of oil etc.
I've attached a couple of photos.
Hope this answers your question.
Chris
If you are asking how to change the engine oil in a 500, it isn't difficult and what follows is a brief description of the method.
1) Run the engine until it is hot.
2) Place a suitable container (at least 3 litres in capacity) under the sump plug area.
3) Remove the oil filler cap on the top of the engine.
4) Remove the sump plug and let the hot oil run out into the container.
5) Go have a cup of coffee while the oil runs out and the engine cools down.
6) Once the oil has run out remove the centrifugal filter cover and clean the sediment out of it. This can be quite fiddly and is probably the main reason why the filter is never cleaned. If the oil hasn't been changed for a while or the filter housing serviced, there maybe quite a build up of gunk. These engines do not have a formal filter as you know it, but rather the oil goes through a centrifugal slinger on the rear of the engine that just throws the sludge against the outside wall where it stays. Primitive but effective.
7) Replace the filter cover with a new o-ring. The cover bolts are eccentrically arranged so that the cover only goes on one way (it also has the timing markings on it). Don't overtighten the bolts as the engine is alloy and you'll strip the threads. The recommended torque is around 6ftlb.
8) Replace the sump plug with a new seal.
9) Fill the engine with your favourite mineral oil (20W50 or thereabouts) through the filler at the top of the engine. Use just under 3 litres in the first instance.
10) Replace the filler cap.
11) Check the oil level on the dipstick.
12) Start and run the engine checking that the oil pressure light goes out and that the engine isn't leaking.
13) Stop the engine and recheck the dipstick. Top up as necessary.
14) Document all of this somewhere - date, mileage, type and volume of oil etc.
I've attached a couple of photos.
Hope this answers your question.
Chris
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....and this is the link to the manual....
http://docfiat500.free.fr/Pour%20TIBOde%20Fran%E7ois%20qui%20te%20dit%20MERCI/F500_Manual.pdf
http://docfiat500.free.fr/Pour%20TIBOde%20Fran%E7ois%20qui%20te%20dit%20MERCI/F500_Manual.pdf
Can you just copy and paste it into your browser? That link does actually lead somewhere at the moment.
I live in the US in the northeast where it gets cold in the winters. I am currently using 10W30 oil in my '70 500F. Is this wrong?
If you do actually use the car a lot when the temperatures are near and below freezing, then that grade would fit the bill. But I guess that you get hot weather in summer, just as we do in Scotland sometimes
and so the recommended 20W50 would be more appropriate in summer. I am not an expert but I don't think you would be damaging the engine other than possibly encouraging leakage and burning a bit more oil past the piston rings and valves.
If you do actually use the car a lot when the temperatures are near and below freezing, then that grade would fit the bill. But I guess that you get hot weather in summer, just as we do in Scotland sometimes
I am not an expert but I don't think you would be damaging the engine other than possibly encouraging leakage and burning a bit more oil past the piston rings and valves.
What is everyone using? Synthetic, blends or conventional motor oil?
Just a standard 20w50 mineral oil for me but I live in the subtropics where the temperature drops to a bone chilling 10degC at night in mid winter and gets up to 33degC at midday in mid summer.
Chris
Chris
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Hi Darryl---No, the pulley will stay in place, only the oil-filter cover will come off. As Chris (Bambino) mentioned, and I have on a previous page, make a note where the timing mark on the cover is vis-a-vie the pulley, as the cover has one of the timing marks on it. If you have a standard tin sump, start being careful once you have put 1 QUART in (2 pints)--the capacity of the tin sump is 1.85 US QUARTS (a gnats cock over 3 pints)---only the aluminium sumps can accommodate 3+ litres.
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dk500
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Hi Tom
Thanks for the info !
I have the new seal and will pick up oil in halfords tomorrow.
It actually has a 126 - 650cc engine, would you reckon it is a similar quantity of oil ?
" a gnats cock " - excellent will get great use of that term !
Darryl
Thanks for the info !
I have the new seal and will pick up oil in halfords tomorrow.
It actually has a 126 - 650cc engine, would you reckon it is a similar quantity of oil ?
" a gnats cock " - excellent will get great use of that term !
Darryl
the hobbler
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Hi Darryl;
According to 'Haynes', the 126 engine (both capacities) has 4.5 pints in the sump (2.56 litres), so go carefully after about 3.5 pints, as no matter how carefully you drain the sump, you will be surprised how much oil still stays in the engine. Happy oil change!
According to 'Haynes', the 126 engine (both capacities) has 4.5 pints in the sump (2.56 litres), so go carefully after about 3.5 pints, as no matter how carefully you drain the sump, you will be surprised how much oil still stays in the engine. Happy oil change!
Darryl, the plug tapers so the seal gets tighter as the plug winds in. When it starts to feel tight the plug probably won't appear fully in, but that's how it should be.
