Technical Rear wheel bearings picture

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Technical Rear wheel bearings picture

Donny 500L

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On my 70 500 L I dismantled wheel bearings on both sides. A half inch wide spacer fell out and I don't know position it belongs. I need a good drawing that Im having trouble locating.
Thanks for any help
Don
 
Thank you for that info. Is there a torque measurement on the nut or just tighten up?
 
Now that's a difficult one. I will be illustrating when I get the new parts this week. It's quite fiddly without Fiat tools and involves measuring the rotational force taken to turn the hub. Don't just tighten as ther is no torque setting. See the online copy of Haynes for clear explanation.
 
I have a minute or two to try and explain.
From Haynes, by memory, you don't tighten the hub nut too far first; just take up the slack whilst keep turning the hub to centralise everything.
You secure a rigid bar to the hub using the wheel nuts such that it protrudes a few centimetres equally each side of the hub. You get something that weighs 1 pound which you hang from this bar at 4.3" from the centre of the hub:bang: It says that this should have the hub just turning and if it doesn't move you're too tight and the big compressible spacer may be damaged!
I haven't done this yet and reckon that someone using care and experience could do it by feel. But with other vehicles I know just how temperamental bearings can be if bodged.
 
I know just how temperamental bearings can be if bodged.

True story, I once replaced the rear bearings on my Seicento - one side went on no bother, the other side was being a PITA, I got annoyed and got out the long bar and just forced it on by tightening the nut. It stayed in place for ages but was very noisy, I eventually got annoyed at the noise and went to replace it - it basically fell apart when I tried to take it off. Thankfully, the replacement went on without an issue and has been fine since.
 
Ok Another dumb question.. Where does the small piston ring like spacer fall into position. It also fell out before it got mapped.
Thank to all
Don
 
Not so dumb; these bearings are turning out to be deceptively tricky.
You maybe knocked out the bearing outer races without first seeing that the piston ring-type things are placed immediately next to them. They aren't for locking anything but seem to be spacers to keep the seal slightly away from the bearing. When re-assembling, they go back in straight after the new outer race/shell/cone and before the seal is fitted.

I'm about to start tightening the big nut and against my original view that this wasn't needing to be very tight I now see that it probably needs to be extremely well tightened.

I'll keep you posted unless you do it first, in which case, please advise me:bang:
 
After I had posted the ring position question, I found a not so good drawing showing said bearing; then installed it. I learned a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar was not enough to compress the crush sleeve. After finding a 30 inch pipe to extend leverage along with possible heart attack, was able to get to no end play. Thought I was lifting the car pulling so hard. A friend told me thought its close to 225 ft lbs. Test drive today..
Thanks for your knowledge. It was a big help.
Don
 
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