That's what Steve suggested earlier Sean. What as in what you put on the back of brake pads and on wheel studs?

My only concern with that is maybe it will dry out but I guess if the shaft is spinning around and the bearing is moving up and down on it, it is less likely to.

It shouldn't dry out. If I remember rightly the bearing housing just slides back and forth on the sleeve and has no effect on the bearing. This stuff never dries out

Franko500 said:

It shouldn't dry out. If I remember rightly the bearing housing just slides back and forth on the sleeve and has no effect on the bearing. This stuff never dries out

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Ok thanks I'll give that a go tomorrow then.

Vitesse said:

That's what Steve suggested earlier Sean. What as in what you put on the back of brake pads and on wheel studs?

My only concern with that is maybe it will dry out but I guess if the shaft is spinning around and the bearing is moving up and down on it, it is less likely to.

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No idea if they are the same, could be. I've always used copper grease in a spray can and copaslip in a tube. The spray can has always been more liquid,but that maybe just so that it can be reliably sprayed. The tube has the same viscosity as grease, so I've always assumed it was for different but similar uses.

When I have time, I've have to google the data sheets and see if they are the same

And as per above, either won't dry out. They need a serious degreaser to break them down, and even if exposed in the open will last for a long time.

cheers, Steve

Well I have discovered the problem with the release bearing and it's due to Peter's favourite pattern parts.

The first picture shows the old bearing sitting on the actuating arm, note the gap between the bearing and the forks of the arms it sits on.



In the second picture with the new bearing the gap is virtually non existent this is due the fact that the lips on the back plate of the bearing are so tight to the forks that it won't allow it to move along the shaft. So every bodies favourite tool came out, the angle grinder, ground the lips away and job done.

That wasn't all I did today with it being a nice day and a bit warmer. I put all the tinwork back on the engine and I am happy with the finished job. It is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle trying to remember which nut or bolt came from where?

The only problem is I took the pushrod out for the fuel pump and it needs to be refitted before the alternator, so I might need to undo all the fan housing side again just to fit the pushrod or it might be easier to remove the alternator??:bang:

Damn and double damn about the pushrod. Glad you sorted the release bearing. There's always an
explanation when things don't work properly and it beats bodging it and hoping for the best.

Since my good fortune getting some original bushes I have started looking out for new, old stock items. But that has become tricky since Ebay decided to eliminated the "Classic Car Parts" category.

Last week I got an original clutch pressure and friction plate but no release bearing and an original engine gasket set for a 594cc. Both items were proper bargains.

The problem with this is when you need a bit in a hurry you have to go for the pattern parts.

The downside of having an alternator is it's much fatter than a dynamo, so the easiest way to get the pushrod back in was to remove all the fan housing cowling, you can get all the alternator off seperately but I figured it was going to do less damage to my nice paintwork if I did that. It only took about 1 hour, so wasn't too bad.

I just need the new carb now and I am almost done.

Nice shiny refurbed carb arrived today from Holland, it took less than 2 days to get here. So I will be able to fit it tomorrow and bench test it to see if I have successfully fixed all the oil leaks it had before.

Hmmm shiny, I bet that was a pretty penny!

You would have thought so but it actually only cost €89.00 or £62.00 which was pretty reasonable when you think how much a new one would be.

I love this weakening Euro.

Nearly there. I finished off the some more bits on the engine today and all that left really is to put the exhaust on. Which got rust treated where the welds had rusted and a coat of paint, so I need to let that cure for a few days.

Looking good Tony. What did you paint your exhaust with?

Paolo66 said:

Looking good Tony. What did you paint your exhaust with?

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Damian I used Simoniz Very High Temperature Paint 500ml Silver in a spray can, it's available all over the Internet it only costs about £7 a can.

Tony

The exhaust is ready to fit, I must say I have never seen an exhaust like it before. It came with the engine, the only time I have seen these 2 in 1 setups is on sports exhausts?

Oh I haven't cleaned the filler cap yet, if anyone thinks my standards are slipping.



Here is the strange little flap on the fan housing that some people may not have seen before. I assume it is there to allow you to open it to give the carb a blast of cooler air? I have camouflaged it a bit by painting it the same colour as the housing.

Closed


Open

That looks a larger bore than standard Tony. I think that flap is manual operated, can't see any other way of operating it. Must be ready to start it soon.

Franko500 said:

That looks a larger bore than standard Tony. I think that flap is manual operated, can't see any other way of operating it. Must be ready to start it soon.

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Yeah I think you are probably right Sean on the bore of the pipe now you have pointed it out, I will measure the standard 500 pipe tomorrow and compare.

Yes on the flap definately manually operated but could help out on really hot days I am guessing.

All that is left is to put then engine oil in and tighten up the exhaust and I should have blast off, so tomorrow or Monday hopefully and of course the statuary video.

I am sitting here thinking what I need to do to start the engine up tomorrow and it's raining and my workshop manual is in the garage and I am too comfortable and warm to get up and go out and get it!!!!!

On the exhaust tightening up procedure there is a set order to doing up the nuts.

Is it exhaust to manifold first, then manifold to head and then finally the brackets. If I don't ask it will bug me all night, what's left of it.

I'm up v. early Tony so here you go. First secure the manifold to exhaust, whilst the manifold to heads are located and well in but not tight at all.

fiat500 said:

I'm up v. early Tony so here you go. First secure the manifold to exhaust, whilst the manifold to heads are located and well in but not tight at all.

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Cheers Peter. You were up early!